Foam around radiator?

[Buckru]

Well, for a while now I have been experiencing a creep in temperature. (RT temp guage mod completed a long time ago) The odd thing is driving at 30mph truck runs cool but temp increases as speed increases. Outside ambient temp doesn't seem to matter. My thoughts are to replace the radiator.(If anyone else has a different solution please let me know.) When I do, what type and where does one purchase new foam?

Truck history:
Rad cap replaced 20k ago
refill blue clutch w/ 6k cst 3k ago
thermostat replaced 35k ago
coolant flushed every year since 2002
rad. fins cleaned with simple green 6k ago

Would it be possible the thermostat has gone bad in this short of a time?

Buck Buchanan

 

[94landcruiser]

I have the same issue with all new cooling system. I drove my truck with the computer attached to the diag port and found that it never gets near critical temps although it looks scary (I have the original mod 110/50 resistor)

I verified the mid range 189-203 it was as listed on my gauge. It was over 100 ambient at the time so colder was impossible and obviously I did not overheat my engine. I am assuming that since the range I was running at was accurate it will remain accurate.

I took the truck to Toy Specialists today, we confirmed using the OBD2 computer that these numbers using 110/50 resistors are correct:
Pegged hot 244°
Top of red is 227°
Bottom of red 217°
Center is approximately 189°
Cold line is 160°
Pegged cold 150°

We ran the computer out the hood, into the truck and I drove around. within a degree the figures are accurate.

My truck runs just fine and I have a usable temp gauge thanks to you guys.

THANKS!

Those quotes are from the last page of this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=64252&page=9

 

[Buckru]

Wow! I had not been back in that thread for quite a while and I appreciate knowing what temps I'm running based on where the needle is sitting. Thanks for that.
Based on where my needle is sitting I am running about 189 deg. When I did the temp guage mod a year ago, I was probably running about 175 (based on the scale of the above post). While these numbers may be acceptible, I am still seeing a creep up in temperature. What I am trying to accomplish is to eliminate this trend and return to where I originally started after the RT temp guage mod.

Based on these posts, is my suspision of the radiator slowly clogging valid?
If so, is there maybe a flush type product I can try or is a new rad. in my near future? Also, where do you get the foam neede to surround the rad.?

Buck Buchanan

 

[jkeating]

If you replace the radiator with OEM the foam comes affixed to the radiator. It doesn't appear to be anything special though, so buying some adhensive backed foam from a hardware store would probably work just as well.

 

[94landcruiser]

I see a "creep" at highway speeds & in traffic over 100 degrees ambient and I have a new waterpump, radiator, thermostat, fan clutch & hoses.

I did the original mod on my original temp gauge and had less creep. The change came when my odometer broke and I got a 97 cluster which I modded.

I don't know if you have a cooling system issue, I am just saying I have the same results with a system installed in May 2007, with less than 2000 miles on it

 

[KliersLC]

I used spray foam and painted it black when it dried....

 

[94landcruiser]

I used spray foam and painted it black when it dried....

What did you use? Can you post a picture of the result?

Gracias!

 

[gray]

Wow! I had not been back in that thread for quite a while and I appreciate knowing what temps I'm running based on where the needle is sitting. Thanks for that.
Based on where my needle is sitting I am running about 189 deg. When I did the temp guage mod a year ago, I was probably running about 175 (based on the scale of the above post). While these numbers may be acceptible, I am still seeing a creep up in temperature. What I am trying to accomplish is to eliminate this trend and return to where I originally started after the RT temp guage mod.

Based on these posts, is my suspision of the radiator slowly clogging valid?
If so, is there maybe a flush type product I can try or is a new rad. in my near future? Also, where do you get the foam neede to surround the rad.?

Buck Buchanan

If the radiator is blocked, internally, or air flow is messed up externally, you could get an increase in operating temp.
If the water pump vanes are worn away (rare), it will move the water through the radiator slower, leading to increased temps,
not that common, but possible. Some aftermarket/rebuilt water pumps are not as efficient as the OEM brand, in my opinion; has it been replaced, ever? Could be the thermostat not opening correctly,
only way to tell is to pull it out and dump it into a pan of boiling
water and watch to see that it opens all the way. Best to check the temp of the water, but either way, if it opens, it is probably good.

For the foam around the radiator, I went to ?ACE hardware and bought some standard foam strip for sealing around a window air conditioner or similar; looks almost stock, and did not melt. I think you may be able to order the OEM foam from Toyota however; do not recall. I once had one of my radiators out to have it rodded out and repaired at a radiator shop, then added the new foam
strip before I installed it back into the vehicle; get the foam with
the sticky tape on one side. The purpose of the foam is to ensure
all the air that goes toward the radiator get sucked through the radiator and not around it, from either direction.

Good luck
g

 

[gray]

Just noticed that Buckru said it usually runs at dead center or horizontal; is that correct?

My stock 1996 FZ80 has always run with the temp needle pretty much dead center/horizontal,
or maybe a hair under center/horizontal; whether around town or 80mph on the highway, and whether
30 degrees or 90 degree outside temps.

The temp that the thermostat opens is 176-183, so 189 +/- is pretty much where it should be
when the thermostat is wide open.

Seems like yours is where it should be??

g

 

[CJF]

My stock 1996 FZ80 has always run with the temp needle pretty much dead center/horizontal,
or maybe a hair under center/horizontal; whether around town or 80mph on the highway, and whether
30 degrees or 90 degree outside temps.

gray,

This forum in general, and Raven Tai in particular, have shown that the stock guage has a huge "dead spot" in the middle. Unless you've done Raven's mod, you really have no idea what temp's you're running at, even if your gauge "has always run with the temp needle pretty much dead center/horizontal, or maybe a hair under center/horizontal".

Curtis

 

[Pete483]

Just to back up what CJF said, prior to doing the Raven Tai mod, my PHH blew and the temp gauge went from dead center to overheating in ~10-15 seconds. Now having done the mod (and fixed the PHH) I see temp swings much much more.

 

[gray]

gray,

This forum in general, and Raven Tai in particular, have shown that the stock guage has a huge "dead spot" in the middle. Unless you've done Raven's mod, you really have no idea what temp's you're running at, even if your gauge "has always run with the temp needle pretty much dead center/horizontal, or maybe a hair under center/horizontal".

Curtis

OK,
What is the mod exactly?
Does it make that much difference; ie:how much of a change
can actually occur before the needle moves without the mod?
G

 

[gray]

Found it,

On the one hand, it is good information to know that there is a "dead spot". I would assume however that the system was designed that way so that owners would not get bent out of shape from small variations in temps which are in the normal operating range from various (normally) encountered conditions.

On the other hand, no way am I going to pull my instrument cluster out and mess with the circuits in order to be able to watch and check whether my radiator temps are 184 vs 193.5.

I have driven Landcruisers all over the world and in some of the hottest places of the world,
including the Middle East where the temps can get to 140+ degrees. Never had an overheat
sneak up on me. I have seen my share of bad thermostats, bad fan clutches, plugged radiators, broken belts, etc, etc, but it was always immediately apparent that there was a problem; no guessing.

Once a bottom radiator hose blew off after it had just been replaced, the temp gauge immediately
started shooting up, which it would do whether it was stock or had had the mod.

I knew however from the antifreeze blowing all over the vehicle, that there was a problem, then I looked at the gauge. I stopped because of the fluid everywhere; didn't need a gauge to tell me to pull over and shut down, put the hose back on, put some water in the radiator, and drive away.

Proper maintenance is what is important, not some Rube Goldberg rewiring. IMHO.

Some guys like to tinker to improve on Mr T's engineers, nothing wrong with that,
just not sure of the utility or the value of doing this mod for the average owner.

Interesting to read about however, I am impressed by the technical know-how of
many of the techies on this forum.

G

 

[CodyRx7]

I just drive with my hood back home in the garage.

 

[94landcruiser]

Found it,

On the one hand, it is good information to know that there is a "dead spot". I would assume however that the system was designed that way so that owners would not get bent out of shape from small variations in temps which are in the normal operating range from various (normally) encountered conditions.

On the other hand, no way am I going to pull my instrument cluster out and mess with the circuits in order to be able to watch and check whether my radiator temps are 184 vs 193.5.

I have driven Landcruisers all over the world and in some of the hottest places of the world,
including the Middle East where the temps can get to 140+ degrees. Never had an overheat
sneak up on me. I have seen my share of bad thermostats, bad fan clutches, plugged radiators, broken belts, etc, etc, but it was always immediately apparent that there was a problem; no guessing.

Once a bottom radiator hose blew off after it had just been replaced, the temp gauge immediately
started shooting up, which it would do whether it was stock or had had the mod.

I knew however from the antifreeze blowing all over the vehicle, that there was a problem, then I looked at the gauge. I stopped because of the fluid everywhere; didn't need a gauge to tell me to pull over and shut down, put the hose back on, put some water in the radiator, and drive away.

Proper maintenance is what is important, not some Rube Goldberg rewiring. IMHO.

Some guys like to tinker to improve on Mr T's engineers, nothing wrong with that,
just not sure of the utility or the value of doing this mod for the average owner.

Interesting to read about however, I am impressed by the technical know-how of
many of the techies on this forum.

G

I was with you up to Rube Goldberg.

There are no levers, no dominoes, no ramps. Just new resistors that make MY gauge react to changes in the temp. That is what a temp gauge is for no? Prior to the mod my gauge was painted at slightly above 1/4.

My headgasket blew (would have anyway) with no indication from the gauge.

Now it moves and I know what my coolant temp is.

 

[gray]

I was with you up to Rube Goldberg.

There are no levers, no dominoes, no ramps. Just new resistors that make MY gauge react to changes in the temp. That is what a temp gauge is for no? Prior to the mod my gauge was painted at slightly above 1/4.

My headgasket blew (would have anyway) with no indication from the gauge.

Now it moves and I know what my coolant temp is.

OK,
Rube goldberg may not exactly describe the mod;
just the first words that came to my mind at 3am.

Point is, for the average guy who does not routinely solder
stuff, it could be a bit scary (or expensive if you messed up) to tear into your instrument cluster.

I am all for more information, just would prefer some mod
that ie: replaced the OEM temp sensor and sent the signal
to a new remote gauge cluster.

Recently while driving down the highway I looked over to the vehicle on my left and saw that it had gauges mounted on the inside of the A pillar; looked like a nice custom set up, or maybe it was OEM,
anyone know?

G

 

[KliersLC]

Go for, mount a aux gage, but you have a perfectly good gage already. This is an EASY mod.

FWIW, the stock gage will, not show a bad fan clutch, and dit will not show overheat until after the AC cuts out at 226. By that time, you have likely already hurt something. With the modded gage, you can see the temp rising and take action well before you get to that point.

Also, Most of the other land cruisers throughout the world don't have this dead spot.

 

[gray]

Go for, mount a aux gage, but you have a perfectly good gage already. This is an EASY mod.

FWIW, the stock gage will, not show a bad fan clutch, and dit will not show overheat until after the AC cuts out at 226. By that time, you have likely already hurt something. With the modded gage, you can see the temp rising and take action well before you get to that point.

Also, Most of the other land cruisers throughout the world don't have this dead spot.

OK,
Is everyone saying that this is an actual defect? Has their been
a TSB or recall? New part to supercede the old? Or just poor design
and Mr T missed it?

Was not aware that the needle would not move at all until you
got it over 226.

Good information that the AC will cut out, did not know that either.

I actually did get one overheat situation a few years ago where
the needle did move.

The PHH started leaking during an 1500 mile trip in the south(USA), outside temps 90-100. First thing I noticed that the gauge was a few clicks above center (like pointing at 2 o'clock) when I pulled off the highway to get gas. First time it ever did that.

So, I let it cool down, checked my radiator, found that it was down about a gallon and filled it back up. Looked for leaks, saw through the wheelwell that I had antifreeze in the area of the PHH, got some hose and clamps from a parts store in case it went all the way out before I got home, and I completed the trip; fixed the PHH a couple of days later.

So, the temp gauge did work. Nothing hurt.

I may reconsider the mod, but really don't like messing with something unless I know that I can put it back the way it left the factory if I want to.

Again, nice to know about the mod, just not a big problem in my experience and from the way I use my truck; either way, if the temp goes up, you got to stop and fix the problem.

I am not stubborn, just set in my ways.

g

 

[KliersLC]

Not a design flaw really, just a minor tweak to keep the rich masses happy with their 50 thousand dollar vehicle. You can always remove the resistors and put the old resistor and diode back in if you don't like it.......

 

[KliersLC]

What did you use? Can you post a picture of the result?

Gracias!

Sure!