flywheel washers/tabs

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Joined
Mar 25, 2004
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On some flywheels there are these kidney bean shaped washers that go under two bolts and have their tabs bent up to make sure the bolts don't work loose. I'm not sure what they are called, so I hope that is not too vague. Are these necessary when reinstalling a flywheel? Can I just use split washer for the same effect? I have not been able to find these.

A brand new rear main seal that was put in only a week ago is starting to very slightly leak, so I'm feeling the urge to pull that tranny and clutch back out, again. Slightly aggrevating, but I guess that's the way things go.
 
Those "kidney" shaped plates are only on the three speed/F as far as I know. I may have some kicking around from the three speed/F engine that I have here.
 
They're called 'flywheel plates' and were used on F flywheels. They are available from Specter (018-30A $1.50ea) and they are necessary. DO NOT USE LOCKWASHERS. The bolt heads will stick out too far and will interfere with the clutch disc springs. Trust me :doh: I would think that loctite would probably be fine, but why not just do it right the first time? It's not worth cutting corners for how much of a PITA the clutch job is.

Eric
 
What about with the flywheel from a 2F mated to a 4spd, behind an F motor? The tabs were on my original flywheel, but not on the ones that I removed from the donor 2F.
 
I would say use whatever is supposed to go with the flywheel. It doesn't look like the 2F bolts are mechanically retained in any drawings I can find, but someone else may know? Or check with the FSM to see what (if anything) is supposed to be there.

I used the plates when I put the 2f clutch on my F, because it made me feel better and I didn't know not to. I didn't have any problems - well, not with that part. Given the choice and the time, I would have drilled the heads and safety wired them instead. But if there was nothing on the flywheel when you removed it, go for it. I'd still vote for at least using loctite, though.

Eric
 

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