USMCDocJ
SILVER Star
Didn't find anything on search. Anyone done this? How thick is the material? Is this a stupid (unsafe?) idea?
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The holes would need to be 2" high x 3" wide to accommodate the light housing.3mm. There's decent access to the centre of that section from behind to weld in a small gusset if you were really worried. How big are these lights?
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Thank youI'd be willing to do it to my own car. If you're running a tow hitch set up it's already added a heap of bracing to that area of the chassis.
Depth may be more of an issue than anything else, but only on the outside edges. I can measure that up tomorrow. Diode Dynamics SSC1's are plenty for rear lights and smaller footprint for cutting.
Yodateq? Better option than cutting the chassis, for sure.What do you want the light to do; extra brake light, back-up light, or light for working behind the vehicle at night??
I forget who but someone makes a bracket for a rear facing light, attached higher up on the body.
I plan to use these as an additional reverse light that I can also switch. I have the brackets from YodaTeq inbound for 2 more up high.What do you want the light to do; extra brake light, back-up light, or light for working behind the vehicle at night??
I forget who but someone makes a bracket for a rear facing light, attached higher up on the body.
These Rigid D-series lights are flush mount type and can be installed on most any surface. The frame rail could work if it’s wide enough. If your lights have a similar mounting plate, should be easy to install.
Rigid Industries Flood Flush Mount Black Pair D-Series Pro RIGID Industries
Rigid Industries Flood Flush Mount Black Pair D-Series Pro RIGID Industrieswww.rigidlightshop.com
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Chris, what do you mean here? I still haven’t decided how to do my lights for rear (working lights mainly)…Sounds like you are still stock in the rear. Put them in the plastic wings. Will look better, probably better output since further apart, and it’s not as “permanent”.