Flip's Fantastic reFinish (2 Viewers)

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Mar 10, 2007
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After helping Tofu do his truck, I decided it was time to get my own under the spray.
I've been working for about 80-90 hours on this so far over four weeks.
Paint is PPG Shopline 4e8 bronze metallic. Roof will be T12 "Cygnus White." Both are base/clear.
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Some supplies
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Cygnus White
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S****ing the gutters clean...
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Sealed, most parts such as the fenders internally as well.
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Basecoat
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Clearcoat
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I didn't want to take the fenders off at first, but I was desperate to know the condition of the fabled vertical seam. It was so old and rotted that it crumbled when touched. Here is what was underneath.
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I'm hoping to take the glass out like we did Tofu's truck; although I am partial to the chrome lock strips. Not something I would go out of my way to keep, but I want to make sure I can get a replacement for the thinner hatch glass strip. In addition, I had a local glass shop quote me $157 installed for a new windshield if I provided a new gasket, which will be the Toyota chrome-less version.
 
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Take those down spouts off and check inside there as well--especially on the passenger side for debris and rust. I left the downspouts off. They don't seal where they mount anyway, and I figure less obstruction to trap all the leaves and stuff.

Looks really good.
 
Nice work with the painting. How big of an air compressor do you have? I'm just curious :D
 
Nice work with the painting. How big of an air compressor do you have? I'm just curious :D

A lot of people will say you need a giant compressor to paint, but I've done several successful jobs with compressors under 10 gallons and less than 6 hp. Right now I actually have two compressors in tandem; a 5hp 10 gal and a 5hp 6 gal.
 
Looks very nice, from what I can see the interior looks super clean too. Looking forward to seeing it pieced back together! :cheers:
 
A lot of people will say you need a giant compressor to paint, but I've done several successful jobs with compressors under 10 gallons and less than 6 hp. Right now I actually have two compressors in tandem; a 5hp 10 gal and a 5hp 6 gal.

Cool stuff, your pictures are more than sufficient to show the nay-sayers that giant air compressors are not needed.
 
Nor is an expensive gun or special booth. I've sprayed top notch guns, and I've sprayed low end ones. The basecoat gun for this job is a Sharpe 1.3mm hvlp, and the clear gun is a harbor freight 1.4mm hvlp #66222. The harbor freight gun actually sprays clear better than a lot of guns. It's a very close copy to the Satajet nr95.
 
Damn, that looks fantastic! Can't wait to see the final outcome...
 
Jesus, that looks wicked. Come by when you're back in town and put my paint job to shame, please.
 
No shaming, I just have a lot of time to commit on to the project. I'm bringing my guns and mask back if you want to try yours again...
 
Wow, that is just a fantastic color!
 
I can see the advantage of a base/clear over a single stage from the pictures.

As for trying again on my rig, I want to wet sand and buff and redo the hood, lift gate and roof. Perhaps spots on the body where it is thin or messed up, but not a whole respray. I am NOT pulling glass or taking things off the truck again.

Call me when you're back in town dood.
 
So these windows...I'm having a tough time deciding how to remove them. I'm debating on whether it's possible to remove them while keeping the chrome strip in?
 
So these windows...I'm having a tough time deciding how to remove them. I'm debating on whether it's possible to remove them while keeping the chrome strip in?

If you are talking the windshield, you have to remove the chrome strip gently before you pull the windshield. At least that's what i did. The rubber wouldn't flex enough to allow pulling the glass with the chrome in.
 
It's about time to remove the windshield and address some rust in the frame. I don't know much about windshield replacement other than I would like to go with a lock-strip-less gasket. Safelite is the company that comes to mind, and they have a national warranty as well. They quoted me $240 to do it. Good idea?

Some voluptuous fenders, 2-3 coats of clear that were then wet sanded with 1000 grit and given another final coat of clear.
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And....some jet black window dividers. It's supposedly the darkest black ppg can mix.
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And... a driver door
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the fender seam post sandblasting, priming, and application of 3m chewing gum sealant.
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I've been hitting the rust hard, trying to eliminate all corrosion. I was grinding away at a fine looking rear quarter, and BAM! A tiny spec just kept getting bigger and bigger. I opted to do a sheet metal graft.

My welder is a small mig, few adjustments. I was using .030" flux core previously. I hated it, every time I touched the tip to the body it would burn through on lowest setting. To remedy, I decided to try some .023" wire, no flux or shielding gas. The penetration is verrrry weak, but the panel isn't a structural member.

All said and done, I kept running into more rust holes while welding in the patch, which i filled by welding. I wish I had a way to protect the inside from corrosion, but I don't see how to get in there. The new piece fits well, I'm not sure if I will even need body filler.
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