Flat spot fixed. 1998, 1FZE, FZJ105R (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 25, 2024
Threads
5
Messages
13
Location
Berwick, Vic, Australia
I've been trawling this site for for ages, but now I can offer something back and hopefully help someone else.

My engine management light came on while driving, and I noticed a slight flat spot and noticeable loss of power when accelerating. I took it to the local guy to scan it, but only came up with B1156... RHS airbag sensor. This didn't seem to match the symptoms, but maybe the sensor is connected somewhere to the EFI.

Just to be sure, I replaced the spark plugs and leads in case they were contributing to the loss of power...no change. I was able to get an airbag sensor from the wreckers for $60 and installed a new TPS. I drove the car to the local guy again, still running with loss of power, management light still on, and had it rescanned. It still came up with the same fault code. He checked the sensor, disconnected the battery, did everything you're supposed to do but engine management light still on, and loss of power, no change.

I decided to go to another scan guy for a second opinion, long story short...got fault codes: P0110 Intake air Temp, P0120 Throttle Pos sensor, P0330 Knock sensor. Surprisingly...no airbag fault.

I tested the sensors as described in the FSM...all up to factory specifications. I tested them at the computer end to see if a wire had broken or a short...all good. The FSM had a hint that read,: "If DTC ”P0105/22” (Vacuum Sensor Circuit Malfunction), DTC ”P0110/24” (Intake Air Temp. Circuit Malfunction), ”P0115/22” (Water Temp. Circuit Malfunction), ”P0120/41” (Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) are output simultaneously, E2 (Sensor Ground) may be open." (Pic Attached)

I've got half of those codes so I've got half a chance. So I pulled out the computer and sprayed contact cleaner on all the terminals...Woohoo, job done, all fixed!

So the moral here is...If in doubt, get a second opinion.
 

Attachments

  • TPS.pdf
    102.8 KB · Views: 32
I've been trawling this site for for ages, but now I can offer something back and hopefully help someone else.

My engine management light came on while driving, and I noticed a slight flat spot and noticeable loss of power when accelerating. I took it to the local guy to scan it, but only came up with B1156... RHS airbag sensor. This didn't seem to match the symptoms, but maybe the sensor is connected somewhere to the EFI.

Just to be sure, I replaced the spark plugs and leads in case they were contributing to the loss of power...no change. I was able to get an airbag sensor from the wreckers for $60 and installed a new TPS. I drove the car to the local guy again, still running with loss of power, management light still on, and had it rescanned. It still came up with the same fault code. He checked the sensor, disconnected the battery, did everything you're supposed to do but engine management light still on, and loss of power, no change.

I decided to go to another scan guy for a second opinion, long story short...got fault codes: P0110 Intake air Temp, P0120 Throttle Pos sensor, P0330 Knock sensor. Surprisingly...no airbag fault.

I tested the sensors as described in the FSM...all up to factory specifications. I tested them at the computer end to see if a wire had broken or a short...all good. The FSM had a hint that read,: "If DTC ”P0105/22” (Vacuum Sensor Circuit Malfunction), DTC ”P0110/24” (Intake Air Temp. Circuit Malfunction), ”P0115/22” (Water Temp. Circuit Malfunction), ”P0120/41” (Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) are output simultaneously, E2 (Sensor Ground) may be open." (Pic Attached)

I've got half of those codes so I've got half a chance. So I pulled out the computer and sprayed contact cleaner on all the terminals...Woohoo, job done, all fixed!

So the moral here is...If in doubt, get a second opinion.
I meant to add: The weird thing was, after a cold start of a morning, it would drive perfectly for about 3 minutes. After that, the engine light would then come on and so would the power loss. Any further starts would see it happen within 30 seconds of driving, but, after a hot start and left to idle for an hour, no engine light until car was moving. I've got to admit it was doing my head in!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom