fl60 losing charge? (1 Viewer)

[bigbertha]

Howdy folks. My Fj60 seems to be losing charge when under load. It starts up and idles and drives perfectly until I have to use the headlights and wipers at the same time. If I am in gear and driving with lights and wipers then it is perfect, but when I come to a stop sign or a red light or try to cruise in neutral down a hill or something, the cruiser will die... charge light comes on and it just dies. No problem restarting, but it's dangerous and a pain.

If both wipers and lights aren't draining the battery then there are no problems at all. If my blinker is on then it is even worse and the truck dies even faster. I have to use the manual choke to get the revs up before I stop if I am using anything electrical.


When my blinker is on the voltage needle goes up and down quite a bit and after 4-5 blinks, it is at half and the truck dies.


Alternator rebuild you think? I already changed my IC regulator and swapped batteries and there was no improvement.

 

[mp_cude]

check the alternator wires. Look for any damage, and make sure it has proper ground. If that is ok, replace the ALT.

 

[NocalFJ60]

Start in this order.

Check all your fuses
Check the fusible link
Check all wiring at battery for good connection
Check voltage on battery with engine off and then on (Turn on the headlights on for a minute with key not in vehicle to get rid of surface charge then back off. Then measure battery and it should be around 12.6-12.7 when off, if less than around 12.3-12.5 pull the battery and stick it on a charger)
(With the cruiser idling it should read around 13.5V if alternator is working)
Pull the alternator and take to a local part store to have tested if a problem is found also take battery if charging it doesn't improve the voltage test readings above.
My guess is you you lost a couple of diodes and your idle voltage is very low.

Goodluck

 

[Norris Marshak]

Sounds like your alternator is tired/weary. Replace it or have it rebuilt. In fact, here is where the issue of rebuilds versus rebuilds is up for discussion. You know, take it out and have it bench tested. 15 minutes maximum to remove it. Then replace it with one from the store or rebuilder who will stand behind it the longest. Keep your paper work.