FJ62 won't go in reverse after using 4WD - transmission issue

[Hoodcruiser]

just bought a FJ62 (had an FJ60) and drove it for 60 miles in 4WD in the snow, then it sat for a few days and I WAS able to put it in reverse to get out of the driveway. Then I put it in drive for ten feet, then put it in reverse and it WON'T won't engage in reverse in either 4WD or 2High.

Some other symptoms - I do get a little bit of a reverse when its in 4H but none n 2H. Also, when in drive it won't engage into third gear for some reason. This started happening at the same time.

Doin gthe research it sounds like it could be anyone of the following issues:

1)Transfer case solenoid
2) replace the transfer case?
3)Transmission or transfer case fluid level/quality (I have not checked)

Any other ideas? Thanks for any help!

Hood Cruiser

 

[RockDoc]

First thing I would do is check the fluid level and smell in the tranny. Couldn't hurt to check the fluid level in the transfer to make sure ATF isn't being pumped into it through a bad seal, but I would expect the issue is in the transmission. My transmission is hesitant to engage reverse at first when it is really cold, what kind of ambient temperature are you experiencing?

 

[Hoodcruiser]

Thanks RockDoc, It did sit in the cold, snowy weather (25-28 degrees) for two days.

I do have a leak in the transfer case or transmission, or both.

The odd thing is that it doesn't shift into third now as well.

Thanks,

Hoodcruiser

 

[KLF]

Nothing in the transfer case affects how the transmission shifts. They are totally separate things, they just happen to be bolted together.

I'm not sure what "solenoid" you mean with the transfer case in #1, there are VSVs on the firewall that control the big vacuum dashpot for shifting in and out of 4WD. They fail often and are $$$ to replace. But if you are sure you are shifting from 2 to 4 and back, then they should be fine.

 

[red62]

Another name for these vacuum switching valves is vacuum solenoid valve. The solenoid valve uses an electromagnet to change the valve position. The FJ62 uses 2 solenoid valves to engage and disengage the transfer case. The emission control system uses some also. Dorman or Dornan now stocks some that look like stock toyota valves, part #s 911-601 to 612 or there abouts on amazon. idk if they fit.

I agree it's the transmission, not the transfer case. Try warming it up more, or driving in whatever gear it will get for a half mile, it may come alive and get all the gears again. If it does, it may have a bit of sludge.

 

[Tomorokoshi]

Hi, did you get a resolution for this problem?

I had what sounds like the exact same problem happen about the same time. Here is my sequence of events:
1. Ever since I got the truck it had an extended time to shift between 1 and 2.
2. A couple years ago to fix #1 I drained the fluid and replaced the filter. I also added some kind of thick additive.
3. It did a little better with the 1 to 2 shift, but now at idle it would drop out of 1. Once it got revved it would drop back in.
4. So anyway, in early February, 2014 as well there was a big cold snap. Something like 20 F on Sunday dropping to -20 F on Monday. My LandCruiser had been sitting outside for some time, but I drove that because the streets were all iced. It worked perfectly fine on the 5 mile drive to work.
5. I go to drive it home after it sits outside in the lot.

Symptom #1: Transmission now shifts very crisply between 1 and 2.
Symptom #2: Transmission does not shift from 2 to 3.
Symptom #3: Transmission does not go into reverse.

And now for something completely different (or related?)
Symptom #4: I also lost brakes! The pedal goes all the way to the floor. It does engage a bit when all the way down. Fortunately I couldn't go very fast anyway when nursing it home.

The most obvious connections between reverse and drive are the C2 clutch, the C2 accumulator, and the associated 2-3 shift valve.

I removed the valve body and got a rebuild kit. I took it all apart, and unfortunately... I didn't find anything obvious. I cleaned everything up and reinstalled the valve body. After a 1/2 hour of idling and checking fluid I think I got it into the range. I checked reverse engagement during this time, and it never kicked in.

I just now removed the valve body again, and using air I went through the various ports on the gearbox to actuate the clutches and bands. They all seem to operate.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

In the chassis factory service manual (FSM) under the auto trans (AT) section there are a few easy checks to do first:

1 Verify manual shift linkage is properly adjusted.
2 Verify throttle cable is adjusted properly.
3 Valve Body

Given that these situations are happening in cold conditions I am guessing the viscosity of the transmission fluid is like honey and thicker than it should be. Letting the truck warm up for a few minutes in your driveway may assist the problems.

Regarding the lack of braking power in cold conditions: If ice and snow enters your rear drums it could freeze the shoes in place until they warm up and cause a loss of braking power in the rear. I have experienced this in my 1988 4Runner in college.

The pedal going to the floor is a different safety issue. My guess is the seals in your master cylinder contract when cold allowing a small amount of fluid to pass by when braking. This would cause the brake pedal to go lower to the floor than normal and cause poor braking. Since half the country lives in cold temperatures I imagine this is not a main concern. Maybe for old worn out master cylinders this could be an issue? I am guessing here so do not take my word on this.