FJ62 OME 90% Installed: Some Issues and advice needed

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FJ62 OME Suspension 90% Installed: Some Issues and advice needed

We managed to get most of the OME suspension kit in (only thing left is the steering stabilizer). I was curious if any other 62 owners encountered an issue with the muffler tail pipe. If you look at the pics, the shackle is touching the tail pipe. I'm pretty certain we have the shackle pointing the right way. Just curious if anyone else had this issue. :doh:

Secondly, i've been reading posts about steering issues once lifted (not talking about caster). My steering wheel now rides 90 degrees to the right ever since the install going straight. What do i need to do to correct it?

Anybody want to see some preview pics of the lift? :hhmm:
tail pipe 1.webp
tail pipe 2.webp
 
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The spring will settle a bit and you will get some of you steering wheel alignment back.

The only way I have found to completely corect it after it completely settles is the remove the sector shaft from the steering box and move as needed. The splined input shaft of the steering box has a deepeer detent in it for the bolt. Make sure you slide the sector shaft out of itself and move it over one spline as needed. Your bolt will still need to line up with the deeper detent when you are done.

The same goes for the rear. It will settle a bit and quit hitting your exhaust. Is the factory bracket that hold the end of the tail pipe on it or is it aftermarket?
 
That's good news...i hope it corrects itself somewhat cuz it's driving me nuts! I wasnt sure if the steering wheel could be fixed with messing with the TREs (which i'm dreading because they are old/worn and i know they need replacing but dont feel like messing with them after wasting 5 hours pounding the crap out of those old pins/bushings from the install!

As for the rear, it's the factory bracket holding the exhaust in place.
 
or you could just pop the steering wheel and turn it a couple of notches
 
or you could just pop the steering wheel and turn it a couple of notches

This is what I always have done. MUCH easier.
 
I just looked at the shackle on my 62. I have the same deal. I have a little more clearance between the pipe and shackle. Never had an issue with the shackle reversing and hitting the exhaust pipe. My exhaust may be a little beat up more than yours though. You could bend it out of the way a little yourself or let stumps, rocks, ect.. move yours like what happened to mine.
 
Sorry if this is a newb question, but what do you mean by "pop the wheel"? Also, thought you guys might find this quite funny but here is a pic of my old toyota shocks...Check out the rears! :D
shocks.webp
 
Sorry if this is a newb question, but what do you mean by "pop the wheel"?

On a 62 you can pull the horn cover, unscrew the bolt holding on the steering wheel and pull the steering wheel off the splines (you'll need a puller). Then you can align the steering wheel and bolt it back on. This can all be done in 5 minutes. :)
 
On a 62 you can pull the horn cover, unscrew the bolt holding on the steering wheel and pull the steering wheel off the splines (you'll need a puller). Then you can align the steering wheel and bolt it back on. This can all be done in 5 minutes. :)

You probably won't need a puller, but I suggest leaving the nut threaded on a couple of turns when you yank it. Otherwise, you'll end up in the emergency room having your steering wheel surgically removed from your face. :)
 
I would remove the steering wheel also to re-align it. It's easy. I've never needed a puller - and my biceps are not very big. As mentioned above...leave the nut on while you yank the wheel towards your face...

On the exhaust/shackle interference...an exhaust shop should be able to fix that pretty easily.

On the steering damper - I broke a two ton and a three ton puller trying to remove mine. A six ton puller did the job.
 
What effect will "pulling the wheel" have on the cancelation of you turn signal? I have always planned to correct my wheel (maybe 25* out) using the relay rod to keep thing symmetrical through the steering box and column, but still haven't done it.
 
No affect on turn signal cancelling. This is actually just as easy as it sounds. You still should do a front end alignment, but for the mean time, just pull and turn the wheel.
 
Does a 62 not have steer head adjuster on the tie rod like a 60????? if so look at the tie rod that goes from the steering box to the axle and you will see a little sleeve with 2 13 mm bolt ( I think) losen them and spin the sleeve and it will center the wheel ... I allways move the truck back and drive forward to make sure the wheels are straight and have some on look at the wheel while I move it
 
Someone was saying in a different thread that you shouldn't pull the wheel as a steering adjustment, because then you'll throw off the steering (aka will be different turns lock to lock from center than it should be). Not sure if this is a concern for you. I read about it after I did it myself, and I haven't gone back to do it "right" - not much impact on my daily driving.

If you want to save yourself some labor, pull the horn pad, take off the nut on the steering shaft, and while applying some light pressure on the wheel (toward you), give the steering shaft a few light taps with a hammer. Should pop the wheel off nice and easy.
 
I just wanted to follow up with you all and say thanks for the info. I popped off the steering wheel cover, unscrewed the nut (leaving it on so i wouldnt jam the wheel in my face) and twisted it back to center. Best yet, it took me about 5 minutes! Unfortunately, i'm not the best wrencher to give advice to the forum but if there is anyone in the austin area that needs a hand on their truck, PM me and i'd be more than happy to help! :beer: to you guys!
 
My stock shocks were about the same. They didn't even return they just sat there compressed, in the box.
 

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