FJ62: is the OEM radiator repairable (solid brass)?

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Studio City, CA
I found a small puddle of coolant today, and a shop verified a pinhole in the center of the radiator. Definitely not a fitting or hose.

Is the factory radiator repairable by a radiator shop (pickle, solder/weld the hole, pressure test, and paint)?
 
Metal radiators are repairable.

If a tube is leaking the shop may pinch the tube off rather than plugging the hole. If it is a 4 tube radiator, 25% of its capacity is gone.
 
If a tube is leaking the shop may pinch the tube off rather than plugging the hole. If it is a 4 tube radiator, 25% of its capacity is gone.

HUH? I don't think so.

any good radiator shop can fix that, use there recommendation, as to how to procede and get an estimate. It may not be much more than to replace with a CFS radiator.
 
If you keep the car replace the rad, I repaired mine at a seam (many warnings to not to because it fails close to the repair) and it failed close to the repair (I was warned)
It is very nice to remove the rad, repair, paint, install and then remove again :slap:

So I think after this leak you have the next one pop open, but for a temporary fix good to go and is the hole damage or rust/old?
Also if you reuse the old non adjustable pressure clamps with new hoses and rad mine popped off 3 times and now with a screw on clamp no problems. (diesel)
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HUH? I don't think so.

any good radiator shop can fix that, use there recommendation, as to how to procede and get an estimate. It may not be much more than to replace with a CFS radiator.

What you think and reality ain't necessarily the same thing. I've had a radiator shop pinch off a leaking tube on more than one occasion.
 
If the radiator is ancient and a pinhole leak develops, that's the messenger. The message is the entire insides of the radiator have corrosion & the thing is on its way out (in my experience).

I interpret pinhole leaks in old radiators as a warning sign that it's time to get a new one.
 
What you think and reality ain't necessarily the same thing. I've had a radiator shop pinch off a leaking tube on more than one occasion.

no issues with pinching off a tube and sealing the ends, done it several times out in the field when needed and no issues.

the question was the loss of 25% capacity, which it isn't. if there are 100 tubes total and you lose one you lose 1%
 
Hey, I got a tube you can pinch, riiiiight here!

:rimshot:
:flush:
 
Mine is a 1989, so the CSF 2709 is probably a better choice. I want everything including the A/T lines to match up so that I don't have to re-engineer everything.

I notice that the 2709 is a 3 row, but the 2708 is a 4 row. How many rows on my factory unit?
 
Dunno. I have FJ60s. But I know the two are not interchangeable as there was a change between those model years and people have tried and the 2708 won't fit the 89 and the 2709 won't fit the '88, so the 2709 is your only choice, far as I know. IIRC, the over-all size of the 2709 cooling surface is about the same as the other so cooling efficiency is the same.

Others may know more and there are threads on best rad for FJ62s. Most go with the CSF.

SOR in Canoga Park has them.
 
Explain how that is done. I'm curious.
Long nose Vice Grips? Seal crimped area with JB weld?

Needle nose pliers and a bottle of Bars Leak to seal it up. Ghetto and temporary IMO but it got me and my Pinto the 100 miles home in college.

Eric
 
One other option is to use an FJ60 radiator which does fit fine, and run a separate transmission cooler for better trans cooling.

If you want to fix it, you need an old school radiator shop, they can often recore it, use the existing tanks, and it it almost as good as new.
 
Explain how that is done. I'm curious.
Long nose Vice Grips? Seal crimped area with JB weld?

if it as near the tank, it will look like this:

DSCF1214.webp


DSCF1215.webp


if it is in the center of the tube, needle nose pliers, get it to break into an upper and lower piece, pinch the end and roll over onto itself and squeeze the tube in multiple locations.
 
When talking to CSF Radiator this morning to guarantee a direct fit, they warned that the A/C has to be drained, disassembled and moved out of the way, and then recharged. Is this correct?? If so, is it possible to work around the A/C (I just had the damned thing filled last week).
 
no need to do that with the a/c. it can be done very easily without removing the a/c.
 
"metal" radiators are repairable to a limited degree, after which you are talking about replacing the entire core or tanks....etc. So in summary you can repair them , but given how bad the damage is or the condition is, it might make better sense to have the radiator "re-cored" or new tanks put on (given parts are available), after which you are in the new aftermarket game for a radiator most times.
 
They are not correct about the A/C, but you will have to remove the Fan and Fan Shroud. I've even seen it done with those in place but I get nervous about buggering the fins so I remove the sharp stuff.

I would highly recommend replacing all those hoses that you now have easy access to, at the same time, if they're original or old.

Procedure is in the FSM (factory service manual). PDF downloads are in my sig line. Download and print the pages you need.

Good luck.
 
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I would highly recommend replacing all those hoses that you now have easy access to, at the same time, if they're original or old.
Good luck.

fan belts also need a good looking at, nice easy access.
 

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