FJ62 Carburetor/engine idle/choke diagnosis

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Nov 8, 2013
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Hi all,
I recently took my car to the mechanic to get it tuned up right. Got it back, and drove it to work the next day fine. I had just started it on my way home when this problem started happening. It sounds like the engine misses or is being flooded. The engine will barely idle sometimes.
When I got it to the mechanic after this happened (the muffler literally blew up on the way there!), it was working fine by the time it got there. It just had no muffler. They couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and unfortunately my ability to describe mechanical problems isn't that great. I have since been to several other mechanics and they can't figure it out either. I have a feeling it has to do with the choke. It has done this the past two times when I start it and use the choke.

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? It seems to be fine some days and play up like this every other day. And the mechanics I have taken it to have no idea!
 
Sorry I forgot to mention that If I push the accelerator, the engine just dies. I can drive it around on around 1000rpm, really slowly but it sounds like it misses sometimes. different mechanics have checked the timing and the ignition system and have all said it is fine.
 
Where are you located?

Is the OBD throwing a code?

Do you trust the mechanic enough who did the tune-up to take it back to them and explain what happened and see if they are willing to back up their work and address the problem?
 
Does the engine accelerate OK when you floor it?… All the way to the floor.
Stomp on the pedal and find out. Don't incrementally pussy foot it down. While driving in first or 2nd gear, get some speed with the engine limping along, then stomp and see what happens.

Report back here.
 
One question needs to be answered:

FJ60 or FJ62?

Or, if you aren't sure:

What year is the Cruiser?
 
62s with 3F engines should have carbs...not sure what year the 3FE with fuel injection was introduced...1989?
 
Last edited:
check the air filter and take a vacuum reading...sounds sort of like an intake leak....and identifying if this is a carbd 3F or an EFI 3FE will be necessary...
 
Ok, it looks like Braden isn't coming back real soon. My guess was:
Problem: Plugged primary jet.
Possible initial location: In float bowl.
Possible source of debris: Dissolved piece of accelerator boot falling into accelerator pump chamber and migrating into float bowl.
Cause of exploded muffler: Bigass backfire.

But just stipulatin right now......Not much to go on.
The exact same thing (and symptoms) happened to me.... minus the xploded muffler.
 
Hi all, sorry for the delay. I am located in Central Victoria, Aus.
I don't think I trust that mechanic, before I take it somewhere else though I have to save up some cash first.
The engine doesn't accelerate when you push on the accelerator. It pretty much cuts out. Okay on idle though.
Yes it's an fj62 with a carb. 1989. I promise.
I have checked the air filter. Checked for vacuum leaks (just using a hose and listening for hissing)

I have checked timing, vacuum leaks, changed the points, checked the spark plug gaps, and leads. As far as I can tell it is definitely to do with the carby somewhere.

Output shaft: I am a little nervous to put my foot down because last time i did that the muffler blew up. scared the s*** out of me. It also cost a bit of cash to buy a new one. If you could tell me what putting your foot down all the way will be testing I would really appreciate it.
 
You should test for air leaks with a liquid. I use carby cleaner and spray it on all the joints and especially around the carby base and shaft. Always be careful around the distributor dont spray there.
Fully accelerating tests a few things like, timing advance, fuel enrichment of the engine.

Has he checked the distributor for wear on the shaft, has he checked the float level, has he tested the vacuum unit, what is the dwell angle he adjusted the points at, what spark plugs you running, what gap are you running in spark plugs, when was the last time valve clearances was checked, was a compression test also done? Did he test the traffic pump and adjust it correctly? How old is the fuel in the tank, is it decent stuff.
Tuning old school is a involved job especially if it is the first time the vehicle comes to the workshop, because a base line of condition of the engine needs to be established, no use doing anything if the compression is not good, the carby is worn out, the distributor is worn out.
This could also go the other way because for all of the above it would cost a bit so if you could not afford the total job and your mechanic was forced to take short cuts due to financial restraints, its a different story.
 
cheap 20 dollar vacuum gauge can tell you sooooo much. even more than just checking for obvious external leaks. it can also help find internal leaks that the carb cleaner test cannot. good diagnosis tool to have, heck even better to keep it plumbed and mounted on the dash as it will also give you an idea of fuel economy...
 
should be pulling more than 16.5" at sea level at idle speeds...
 
...I am a little nervous to put my foot down because last time i did that the muffler blew up. If you could tell me what putting your foot down all the way will be testing I would really appreciate it.

OK,
The following long "novel" relates to the primary fuel circuit in the carburetor being blocked.

About a year ago, my engine was doing the exact same thing as yours.
Below are the symptoms I had, and the discovered cause of the problem with my FJ60 USA.\

But of course, it is quite likely that the cause of your problem is not related to the one I experienced, but it is worth considering.
Sorry that my explanation ended up being (way the h*ll) too long for other Mud viewers. But in consolation, this information at least can be helpful for others via Search, even if it is found not to be relevant to your engine woes.

My Symptoms:
  1. The engine was not running properly. No power. No acceleration. At it's worst, I could barely drive it.
  2. The engine idled perfectly fine.
  3. The engine did not have any known vacuum leaks and was properly tuned. Spark plugs were fine. Ignition was fine. Valves were adjusted. Air filter clean. New fuel filter.
  4. The engine felt like it was running out of gas and would sputter and balk when I put my foot on the pedal. No power.
  5. It was running hot when I could sort of drive it.
  6. The problem "just happened one day". Car was running fine the day before, the next day, all hell broke loose.
  7. The problem was much worse when driving up a hill. Sometimes I could not drive up a hill. On flats the problem would sometimes go away for a while, then come back.
  8. A few times, a very loud (gun shot) exhaust backfire happened.
  9. If I quickly pressed the accelerator all the way to the floor, the engine would accelerate sort of OK but not normally.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What Was The Problem?

The accelerator pump plunger boot had dissolved only 4 years after it had been replaced and a very small piece of it had fallen down into the accelerator pump chamber. The top of the boot was pretty much gone.

That very small piece of rubber over time then migrated into the float bowl and eventually got sucked up to the 1st main jet in the carb float bowl after a steep hill climb, causing fuel starvation.
Driving up hills made the problem worse because the tilted carburetor allowed the debris to seal off the 1st main jet more easily with the aid of gravity.
Once that little piece of crap was removed with tweezers, after taking off the top of the carb, the engine ran normally. I also replaced the accelerator pump plunger and it's boot.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
When the Primary Fuel Circuit is Plugged:

The car will idle fine because it is running off the slow jet, but once the accelerator starts being pressed down and opens up the throttle valve, all the engine sees is a big vacuum leak minus fuel because it can't suck any fuel out through the primary fuel circuit. The engine may even stall. Once you let your foot off the gas, the engine returns to normal idle and idles fine because only the slow jet is used at idle and the throttle plates are essentially closed.
When the primary circuit is just sort of plugged, engine power is diminished, but it still runs, though the engine will run hot because it will be running too lean.

If the accelerator pedal is suddenly (not slowly) floored, the secondary fuel circuit comes into action and now the engine at least has some fuel to burn, although not quite enough since it is still missing the additional fuel required of the primary. The engine will accelerate floored but will eventually run hot because it will be running too lean. Once the accelerator pedal is backed off a bit, the secondary shuts off, with the primary fuel circuit left to take up the slack. But with no fuel available, you get no power.

If a blockage to the 1st main jet in the float bowl is intermittent, fuel can suddenly spurt through the jet but not get burned fully in the cylinders. An after-fire (backfire) in the exhaust pipe will result.

When the choke is pulled to start the car, the throttle plate opens slightly to allow more fuel to be sucked in through the primary fuel circuit. Also the choke valve cuts off most of the air going to the carb…but the vacuum actuated choke breaker (if the carb has one) automatically opens up the choke valve a few degrees within a few seconds after starting the car. When this happens, the engine with a blocked primary won't be getting the fuel it needs, will experience a big vacuum leak, then stumble or stall at start up.​

>>>>>>>>
Outback Limp Home Mode: On The Road.

If the primary fuel circuit is just "intermittently plugged" by a piece if crud that is drifting around inside the float bowl, sometimes the offending debris can be sucked through the system or diverted away from the jet by doing a hand slam on top of the carburetor while the engine is revving high.

To do the One Hand Carb Slam, the air cleaner is removed, the carb stud is removed, the engine is revved high (like 3200 RPM), then a rubber gloved hand is quickly slammed on top of the carb while the accelerator rod is then opened fully to create a huge vacuum pulse to try to suck/divert the crap out of there. Just before the engine dies, the accelerator rod is released, your hand is removed to keep the engine from dying, and the process is done several (maybe 10 or more) times again.

That technique got my car going again so I could drive it several hundred miles miles farther… until I could get the carburetor off and clean it out.

There are other methods, which require unbolting things, and I am sure others can offer tips.

But remember, your engine problem may not be related to this at all.
Though it does sound like the carburetor is suspect.

Fred
 
cheap 20 dollar vacuum gauge can tell you sooooo much. even more than just checking for obvious external leaks. it can also help find internal leaks that the carb cleaner test cannot. good diagnosis tool to have, heck even better to keep it plumbed and mounted on the dash as it will also give you an idea of fuel economy...

I t into the A/C idle up port on the brake booster union at the rear of the intake manifold, then run the vac hose through the same hole in the firewall as the choke cable and mount the vac gauge in the vehicle cabin.

Vacuum Reading Diagnosis.webp


Vac Port for Vac Gauge.webp
 
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OK,
The following long "novel"

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
When the Primary Fuel Circuit is Plugged:

The car will idle fine because it is running off the slow jet, but once the accelerator starts being pressed down and opens up the throttle valve, all the engine sees is a big vacuum leak minus fuel because it can't suck any fuel out through the primary fuel circuit. The engine may even stall. Once you let your foot off the gas, the engine returns to normal idle and idles fine because only the slow jet is used at idle and the throttle plates are essentially closed.
When the primary circuit is just sort of plugged, engine power is diminished, but it still runs, though the engine will run hot because it will be running too lean.

If the accelerator pedal is suddenly (not slowly) floored, the secondary fuel circuit comes into action and now the engine at least has some fuel to burn, although not quite enough since it is still missing the additional fuel required of the primary. The engine will accelerate floored but will eventually run hot because it will be running too lean. Once the accelerator pedal is backed off a bit, the secondary shuts off, with the primary fuel circuit left to take up the slack. But with no fuel available, you get no power.

If a blockage to the 1st main jet in the float bowl is intermittent, fuel can suddenly spurt through the jet but not get burned fully in the cylinders. An after-fire (backfire) in the exhaust pipe will result.

When the choke is pulled to start the car, the throttle plate opens slightly to allow more fuel to be sucked in through the primary fuel circuit. Also the choke valve cuts off most of the air going to the carb…but the vacuum actuated choke breaker (if the carb has one) automatically opens up the choke valve a few degrees within a few seconds after starting the car. When this happens, the engine with a blocked primary won't be getting the fuel it needs, will experience a big vacuum leak, then stumble or stall at start up.​

>>>>>>>>
Outback Limp Home Mode: On The Road.

If the primary fuel circuit is just "intermittently plugged" by a piece if crud that is drifting around inside the float bowl, sometimes the offending debris can be sucked through the system or diverted away from the jet by doing a hand slam on top of the carburetor while the engine is revving high.

To do the One Hand Carb Slam, the air cleaner is removed, the carb stud is removed, the engine is revved high (like 3200 RPM), then a rubber gloved hand is quickly slammed on top of the carb while the accelerator rod is then opened fully to create a huge vacuum pulse to try to suck/divert the crap out of there. Just before the engine dies, the accelerator rod is released, your hand is removed to keep the engine from dying, and the process is done several (maybe 10 or more) times again.

That technique got my car going again so I could drive it several hundred miles miles farther… until I could get the carburetor off and clean it out.

There are other methods, which require unbolting things, and I am sure others can offer tips.

But remember, your engine problem may not be related to this at all.
Though it does sound like the carburetor is suspect.

Fred


called Okie Rebuild to us stateside mud h8ers...
 

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