FJ62 2 low mod?

[chicago]

Went diggin through the search and FAQ for this, but I surprisingly came up empty...
Has there been anyone who has successfully done the 2 low mod on an FJ62 with the vac. shifter?
Is this something that Id have to convert to a manual first?
I just pulled the trigger on a set of longs, and I was considering just getting an aussie too, but I would like to have a back up if its unbearable to turn without the hydro assist...

Thanks,

Chicago

 

[overhanger]

You might try disconnecting the Transfer L4 switch. There are two switches that screw into the t-case with connectors near them on the rear passenger side of the t-case and I think it is the one rearmost of the two. Then put the t-case in low range and see if the 4WD light on the dash turns on. If not, then push the 4WD button that would normally only be needed to engage 4WD in high range and see if the light comes on. That should do what you want. I haven't done it this way but when my truck's Transfer low switch was bad 2LO is what I had and to have 4LO the dash switch had to be engaged.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

This is a very plausible fix. Great suggestion.

 

[chicago]

So clarify this for me...
What exactly will this enable me to do then?
Say if I get bound up on a boulder where steering will be needed, what will I have to do?
The Rubicon is not as forgiving on the LWB rigs, so I REALLY want to be able to turn when needed.
I was just thumbing through the lit. on the Aussie site, and it sounds as if it would be a bit easier than the Lock rights or detroits (on turning). I had read some testimonies of others that had threw them in on the front who dont seem to have any issues to speak of.
Dont get me wrong...I like to challeng myself and my rig, but if it DOESNT WANT TO GO, Im not gonna push it as I have to get home in that rig. Plus, Im a little gun shy of breakage after my last outing with the pitman arm.

Thanks for the help!

Chicago

 

[weak-link]

why not rig up a ball valve to dump the vacuum for the 4wd? temp fix and it'd probably take a hole 5min to do.

 

[overhanger]

Dash switch - H4 - becomes your front axle engagement control. Pushed in, you will have front axle drive and in the out position you will only have rear axle drive. The 4WD dash light will show when the front axle is engaged if this setup works as I think it will. Get the steering in a bind and push the H4 to its off position and the transfer case shifts back to rear axle only being driven when the light dash light goes out. Just don't forget that front drive is no longer automatically engaged when you shift the t-case to lo range.

So clarify this for me...
What exactly will this enable me to do then?
Say if I get bound up on a boulder where steering will be needed, what will I have to do?
The Rubicon is not as forgiving on the LWB rigs, so I REALLY want to be able to turn when needed.
I was just thumbing through the lit. on the Aussie site, and it sounds as if it would be a bit easier than the Lock rights or detroits (on turning). I had read some testimonies of others that had threw them in on the front who dont seem to have any issues to speak of.
Dont get me wrong...I like to challeng myself and my rig, but if it DOESNT WANT TO GO, Im not gonna push it as I have to get home in that rig. Plus, Im a little gun shy of breakage after my last outing with the pitman arm.

Thanks for the help!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

So, this is done when in 2 LOW, correct.
All I do is d/c the the switch on the t case?
Thanks for the info!

Chicago

 

[overhanger]

The switch has a lead about 6" long with a two contact plug on that connects to the truck's wiring harness. 2LO will help ease up the steering binding with a locker in the front if I understand your question correctly. The switch next to it on the t-case's side has only a single contact in its plug connector - leave that one alone.

So, this is done when in 2 LOW, correct.
All I do is d/c the the switch on the t case?
Thanks for the info!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

Thanks Overhanger!
So Im 100% clear, If I disconnect the 2 prong, 6 in long connector, that SHOULD allow me to access "on the fly" 2WD and allow me to remain in 4LOW gearing by pushing the "4WD" actuator button and let me get out of a bind with the locked front?
If that is true, that is an AMAZING help to me!
Im an basically one step up from a chimpanzee, so can you clue me into HOW and WHY this will work? Im having trouble wrapping my brain around what the exact function of this switch is and if its something that can be eliminated completely without ramification.

Thanks again. This could really help!

Chicago

 

[cruiserbrett]

the vacuum solenoid that engages the 4wd gets its input from two places. First one is the dash switch. depressing this switch engages 4wd by sending 12v to the solenoid, which sends vacuum to the vacuum diaphragm(to the engage side) in the 2wd/4wd shifter.

the other method that engages 4wd is automatic and that is the switch on the top of the t-case that detects that low range has been selected. when low range is selected, the switch on the t-case sends power to the vacuum solenoid, thereby sending vacuum to the engage side of the vacuum diaphragm.

If you disconnect the switch, it will not allow the circuit to engerize the solenoid, therefore the only control of the 4wd will be the dash switch.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Thanks Overhanger!
So Im 100% clear, If I disconnect the 2 prong, 6 in long connector, that SHOULD allow me to access "on the fly" 2WD and allow me to remain in 4LOW gearing by pushing the "4WD" actuator button and let me get out of a bind with the locked front?
If that is true, that is an AMAZING help to me!
Im an basically one step up from a chimpanzee, so can you clue me into HOW and WHY this will work? Im having trouble wrapping my brain around what the exact function of this switch is and if its something that can be eliminated completely without ramification.

Thanks again. This could really help!

Chicago

Realize that selecting low range, and engaging/disengaging front d-shaft are seperate functions within the TC, and that I/we theorize they can be independently controlled without grenading the TC.
This is just theory talking, so proceed with skepticism until you yourself try this mod out and post up if it in fact works.


4wd button pressed, + hubs locked = 4hi. Pull TC lever down and you've got 4lo, right? You prolly went to 4lo from 4hi and had 4wd button pressed in when doing so. How about if you went from 2hi straight to 4lo, and didn't press 4wd button? It's this switch mentioned that senses the shifter position and automatically engages front d-shaft for you as you pull down to 4lo position, effectively bypassing the dash button. Think of it as a shortcut from 2hi to 4lo, or as a 'nanny' function, preventing you from forgetting to engage the front d-shaft. If this switch's function were disabled, then the TC wouldn't engage the front d-shaft, hence TC is not in 4lo, but 2lo. Pushing the dash button in/out would manually engage/disengage 4wd on the fly, regardless of shifter position.

 

[overhanger]

Getting at the the connector is a bit of a hassle as the t-case cross-member and the little skid plate are sort of in the way - even a chimp can do it though. Leet us know if it works as hoped for!

 

[chicago]

Ill let you know.
Im hoping that when i get the locker in, it wont be as bad as I envision.

Thanks alot for the input here gents!

Chicago

 

[cnlson]

i had this happen to my 88 fj-62 sort of by accident. it would engage low when i shifted but the 4wd light would not come on and i was def not in 4wd. the dealer couldn't figure it out and wanted to replace the switch for an expensive amount. took it to my mechanic and he loosened the switch and then tightened it back up and now it worked perfectly again but during the time it wasn't it worked exactly as you guys guessed 2wd low and with the dash button 4wd low. the 4wd button causes the lever to slide in the front axel and lock in the fronts

 

[CKaya84]

I'm looking at doing this mod this weekend and I want to be sure I have read everything correctly here. On the FJ62 T-case all you have to do is unplug that one connector and it's done? No cutting, sourcing parts, etc. as you have to do with the FJ60 T-case?

 

[overhanger]

I'm looking at doing this mod this weekend and I want to be sure I have read everything correctly here. On the FJ62 T-case all you have to do is unplug that one connector and it's done? No cutting, sourcing parts, etc. as you have to do with the FJ60 T-case?

Yes, unplugging the connector near the t-case is all that needs to be done. Just get the right one!