fj60 transfercase??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

brian

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 7, 2003
Threads
392
Messages
13,195
Location
lebanon,pa
Website
www.facebook.com
i just had the 60's t/c rebiult(after taking it to the 3RD guy!!).
i sorta have it back in the truck, bolted to bell housing but don't have the crossmember up yet.

i have the shift linkage tyed back in on the tc and i've been playing with the shifter.

here's the catch:
2H to 4H has a nice firm feel and a postive "click" as it engages, either from 2 to 4 or 4 to 2.

however when shifting from 4H to N and 4L there's NOTHING, it's like there's nothing on the other end of the shifter.
no clicking no feel of any sort.

could this be anything that could be corrected without pulling the whole works back out agian.
or will i have to take the transfercase apart agian?

i'm going to put the drive shafts back on and the rear cross member back on, fire it up and see what happens when it's in gear. but i know it's not going to go into low range.
 
There is a locking spring and ball mechanism on each of the shift arms, however, I'm not sure it's something you can feel from the shifter inside the cab. Hopefully, you've got the linkage connected properly. There are two shift arms connected to the linkage. The 2WD/4WD shift arm moves front to back. The H/N/L shift arm rotates around a pivot--this may not feel as solid because the linkage has a different type of mechanical advantage. If you try to move the shift arms from underneath the car you should be able to feel the stops. When installing the pivoting mechanism, the end of the pivot needs to get engaged into a slot in the shift arm. If this was not properly, you might have to take the transfer apart, as this gets installed early in the re-assembly process. If the spring or ball is missing, you should be able to get to it with the transfer installed. The spring and ball for the H/N/L shift arm are secured under a large hex nut above the shift arm. Check out the FSM's on Birfield.com if you don't have one.
 
I'm with 2mbb on his comments, but here's something to check. The H/N/L shaft has a bracket clamped to it that connects to the control linkage. If the bracket is clamped too close to the end of the shaft, the shaft can drop down into the case a bit and lose contact with the slotted shaft inside. Grab the end of the H/N/L shaft and pull up on it. You might need to rotate it a bit to get the lever to drop into the slot inside the case. More than 1/16" of endplay is too much. On an 82FJ60, I had to put a washer between the clamp bracket and the case to take up the slop. If you remove the clamp bracket to add a washer, be careful not to let the shaft fall down inside the case - that would require disassembly. Hold the shaft with a strong magnet or some tape.
 
and the board comes through agian :cheers: :cheers:

i was out messing with it, all lo' and behold when i pulled up on the bracket for N and 4LO, i could feel it click.

when i held up on it(the bracket) and cycled the linkage from underneath the truck i could feel the detents and it clicking in to gear.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom