FJ60- How much base? How much clear?

[SKINNER]

For those of you that have sprayed your 55/60/80/100; how much base did you use? How much clear?

Please specify amount, color, brand and type of respray. For instance:

- 2 gallons sprayable, red, Dupont Chromabase, full respray (inner doors, jambs, body)

Thanks!

 

[fieldsken1]

do mean how much you need to buy or how much you need to spray

 

[cruiser88]

In the end after base coat and clear coat you want around 10 mils .wet

5 or 6 base the rest clear.....if not more clear. The more clear you have the more you can buff in the future./

Do not forget to color sand the base before applying clear for that better shine

 

[SKINNER]

do mean how much you need to buy or how much you need to spray

Ummm, yes.

 

[fieldsken1]

you just put enough color on to achive the color then clear. if you put to much on you get material buildup and thats no good and if you put to much clear on it will turn yellow after awhile. 10 mils is too much. it should be about 3 mils

 

[cruiser88]

You cannot paint a car and exspect 3 mils to be a good enough. I have been doing this long enough to know . Heck why you think the make 4 to5 runs just with basecoat sometimes. While I know 10 mills is hard to get for the avearage Joe I have settled for 7 many a times....3 mills is . (My mills was NOT 10 mils of clear..it was base and clear combined) like a little paint blowing in the wind.



QUOTE=fieldsken1;4376762]you just put enough color on to achive the color then clear. if you put to much on you get material buildup and thats no good and if you put to much clear on it will turn yellow after awhile. 10 mils is too much. it should be about 3 mils[/QUOTE]

 

[SKINNER]

you just put enough color on to achive the color then clear. if you put to much on you get material buildup and thats no good and if you put to much clear on it will turn yellow after awhile. 10 mils is too much. it should be about 3 mils

I hate to be rude, but I don't think you understand the nature of my question.

Things I already know:

- I know I spray enough base to cover.
- I know I buy enough base to not run out half way through the job but also not have a gallon left over.
- I know that 3 mils is not enough coverage to allow for adequate color sanding and buffing.
​

Things I'd like to know:

- How much base have other cruiserheads used to do a complete re-spray on their 55/60/80/100?
- How much clear did they use?


​

 

[fieldsken1]

read this...Automotive Paint Handbook: Paint ... - Google Book Searchif you read this it even says what i say but you can do what you want.https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/246975-cool-blue.html heres what a good job looks like. plus you dont need to color sand. i used to do that with laquer but not anymore

 

[cruiser88]

Are you doing door jams? How much primer you going to spray before hand. I ask primer cause when you spray primer or a sealer unless you are using a color primer..so to speak ...a primer close to the color you are painting then it takes more paint to cover the grey. What color are you painting the rig? I sak that cause certain pigments take more paint to cover like red.
My last question...for cost only are you using a paint that requires the paint store to mix?


Ok if you are doing the door jams (not painting under the hood )and you are not fixing any rust and are using very little primer then I say a gallon.


If you are fixing several rust holes and you plan to use alot of sealer or primer then go with a gallon and a quart( if not 2 gallons..which is what I would do). It never hurts to have a little extra for touch ups and like you said I dont want to run out.

I hardly ever run out of paint but in the past I have seen folks run out of harder and reducer more so than paint.

It is quite important to know your gun ....you can run out of paint faster and have other issues because the gun is spraying out to much paint at a fast pace or is pumping out for air than I require.

Please feel free to pm with any questions

I hate to be rude, but I don't think you understand the nature of my question.

Things I already know:

- I know I spray enough base to cover.
- I know I buy enough base to not run out half way through the job but also not have a gallon left over.
- I know that 3 mils is not enough coverage to allow for adequate color sanding and buffing.
​

Things I'd like to know:

- How much base have other cruiserheads used to do a complete re-spray on their 55/60/80/100?
- How much clear did they use?


​

 

[fieldsken1]

here read this. You color sand after you spray the clear to smooth the finish and remove imperfections. Even with the best painter, perfect condition, and cleanest paint booth a typical paint job will have some texture (orange peel) and specs of dirt.
Once the clear coat drys for a few days (even sooner if it is baked) you wet sand the car with sand paper from the 800-2000 grit range, buff with an aggressive compound and pad, then polish with a super fine polish to remove micro scratches and swirls. This process is an absolute art (probably the most demanding of the paint process) and should be handled by a professional.
As far as sanding between the base coat and clear coat, it is not necessary with the modern paint systems. Now I might sand my final coat of base if there was an abnormal amount of dust or imperfections in the base, but I usually will apply one more coat of base coat before spraying the clear coat.
I use both Spies Hecker and Glasurit paint systems. I prefer the Spies Hecker, but some hard core Ferrari owner prefer that I use the Glasurit since it was the factory paint for so many years. I will usually spray 3-4 coats of base and 3-5 coats of clear (depending on how smooth I really plan on color sanding the car).
If it is a car that will needs to be "perfect" then this is my procedure.
3 coats of base
lightly sand the last coat of base with 800 grit paper to ensure smoothness
Spray a final coat of base
Wait 30 minuets
Spray 5 coats of Urethane Clear (I have a favorite that looks amazing) with 45 minuets in between coats (at 75 degrees)
Let air dry for 24 hours
Color sand with 800 grit on a rigid block
Let sit for 3-5 days so it can expel the solvent
color sand with 1000 grit with a rigid block
Color sand with 1500 with a soft pad
Color sand with a DA sander with 3000 trizat 3m paper
Buff with a 3m perfect-it wool pad and 3m perfect-it compound #1
Buff with a 3m perfect-it (white) foam pad and 3m perfect-it compound #1
Polish with a 3m perfect-it (grey) foam pad and 3m perfect-it microfinishing polish #2
Polish with a 3m perfect-it (blue) foam pad and 3m polish #3
Hand glaze with 3m hand glaze
If anyone wants the part numbers for these products let me know. I can tell you this procedure gives you an absolute show car finish. It is a lot of work, but well worth it!
__________________
I own an Auto Body Shop that specializes in Ferrari and exotics.

 

[fieldsken1]

maybe read this also. books.google.com/books?isbn=1557882916... Automotive Paint Handbook.

 

[cruiser88]

Just what I said 3 to four coats of base ...same for the clear. I go with a lighter coats( that is why I go with 4 to 5 so no saging.........so him and I agree more or less. The NORM paint is no where as high tech as the stuff he is using. .such as the napa stuff etc. Not all paints are the same.

Cruisers collect rust..cruisers get banged around. Cruisers require more mils that a car that never sees off road or rust for that matter so he can use less materials. There is a million things to conside before laying the paint down.

 

[fieldsken1]

if you put to much on the paint will start to crack it does not nake any differerance what auto it is on the paint still does the same thing it does not know what its on to much is to much. paint is still paint

 

[cruiser88]

In 20 years except when I first started I never had any cracks..lol take a meter and check a new car.call the manufacters.................dern it paint shrinks unless you are using top quilty stuff like Depont plasticcoat etc...and the mixing materials still dissapate Honestly you do not think the 100 or reducer,MEK stays in solid form do you? Just because its 10 mills wet does NOT mean its 10 mills dry. Now you go spraying heavy on every coat of course it will sag,crack as you said. ITS HOW you apply and when. I still look for as close to 7 to 10 dry. Now lets not hijack this thread anymore. AND PAINT IS NOT PAINT

if you put to much on the paint will start to crack it does not nake anydiffererance what auto it is on the paint still does the same thing it does not know what its on to much is to much. paint is still paint

 

[webelk6]

IIRC the "color" of your primer means alot. For instance. White primer with a red topcoat will give a cleaner look. Gray primer with mustard will give a "dirtier" look.

I agree with 88 100%. You have to remember. These rigs were NOT painted with todays paint systems. In fact I will wager they were done with 2 coats of acrylic type enamel with 2 coats of clear.

These are not hot rods, but if you want , you can do the "turbo" system. It is your rig. Do what you want.

BTW- this is to answer the first post and to back up 88.

FWIW- I did my former 88fj62 WITHOUT CAR PAINT. I used 2 component poly with no clear. Same paint we used on big equipment, and I would put that paint system against any out there for durability.

I actually had someone do my 40 because I wanted clear on it. Look for it on the ROTW coming soon.

Scott

 

[SKINNER]

I am painting the factory 033 white color. My primer is grey but will be sealed prior to base with white SPI epoxy. I will likely use Nason or Omni base (due to tremendous jobber rates through a friend) & I will be using SPI Universal clear.

My question all along has been: HOW MUCH DO I NEED? Meaning volume; aka gallons, quarts, liters. . . whatever anyone wants to measure it in! LOL I just want to get an idea of how much base to buy & how much clear to buy.

 

[SKINNER]

read this...Automotive Paint Handbook: Paint ... - Google Book Searchif you read this it even says what i say but you can do what you want.https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/246975-cool-blue.html heres what a good job looks like. plus you dont need to color sand. i used to do that with laquer but not anymore

here read this. You color sand after you spray the clear to smooth the finish and remove imperfections. Even with the best painter, perfect condition, and cleanest paint booth a typical paint job will have some texture (orange peel) and specs of dirt.
Once the clear coat drys for a few days (even sooner if it is baked) you wet sand the car with sand paper from the 800-2000 grit range, buff with an aggressive compound and pad, then polish with a super fine polish to remove micro scratches and swirls. This process is an absolute art (probably the most demanding of the paint process) and should be handled by a professional.
As far as sanding between the base coat and clear coat, it is not necessary with the modern paint systems. Now I might sand my final coat of base if there was an abnormal amount of dust or imperfections in the base, but I usually will apply one more coat of base coat before spraying the clear coat.
I use both Spies Hecker and Glasurit paint systems. I prefer the Spies Hecker, but some hard core Ferrari owner prefer that I use the Glasurit since it was the factory paint for so many years. I will usually spray 3-4 coats of base and 3-5 coats of clear (depending on how smooth I really plan on color sanding the car).
If it is a car that will needs to be "perfect" then this is my procedure.
3 coats of base
lightly sand the last coat of base with 800 grit paper to ensure smoothness
Spray a final coat of base
Wait 30 minuets
Spray 5 coats of Urethane Clear (I have a favorite that looks amazing) with 45 minuets in between coats (at 75 degrees)
Let air dry for 24 hours
Color sand with 800 grit on a rigid block
Let sit for 3-5 days so it can expel the solvent
color sand with 1000 grit with a rigid block
Color sand with 1500 with a soft pad
Color sand with a DA sander with 3000 trizat 3m paper
Buff with a 3m perfect-it wool pad and 3m perfect-it compound #1
Buff with a 3m perfect-it (white) foam pad and 3m perfect-it compound #1
Polish with a 3m perfect-it (grey) foam pad and 3m perfect-it microfinishing polish #2
Polish with a 3m perfect-it (blue) foam pad and 3m polish #3
Hand glaze with 3m hand glaze
If anyone wants the part numbers for these products let me know. I can tell you this procedure gives you an absolute show car finish. It is a lot of work, but well worth it!

DUDE! You make no sense . Based on your replies, am I color sanding or not. . . oh, (back to the original intent of this thread) how much base/clear are you recommending I buy?

 

[Project60]

Skinner,

I bought two gallons of color for mine... But as you know I am doing complete teardown and respray.

My guess if you are doing jams and outside is 1.5 gallons.

 

[soe lost]

A decade later, but do you remember how much you used: in ounces, quarts, and gallons. And did you spray the jambs and underside of the hood or just the exterior?

 

[gregnash]

Just did mine with single-stage "farm implement" enamel. Used an entire gallon for the full truck including jambs, no under hood though. You can look at my thread for more info. Was painting a close enough color to what I already had that I was not worried about places like underhood, grill/rad support, etc.

Additional note: I would probably see about getting an extra quart if you can. Really up to you but I would get it so you can touch-up any areas that you think may be done poorly or that may have not gotten as much as you would like.