Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (1 Viewer)

[workingdog]

Okay, so in moving towards street legal. I'm going to need seatbelts. I can't find anywhere it says whether they have to be should belts, or if lap belt will work. I'm guessing, since this is new construction, is has to be a shoulder belt - which I have no way to rig without putting the top on - or installing at least a main hoop for the roll cage. So, I'm trying to figure out how I can get a hoop made that will fit. I don't have any of the equipment. The OEM stuff is available, but that stuff is so lightweight, I'm assuming it's useless. Is it? Does someone make a hope that will fit and is worth buying?

The classic thing to do on a 45 is to put the roll bar/hoop behind the cab on the flatbed. It's cleaner and leaves the cab unencumbered, but it provides a less protection then a full cage inside the cab. Plus, with the bar behind the cab, the only place I could mount the shoulder belt is to the sides of the top (which are fiberglass, not steel). and I'm assuming I'm running this without a top most of the time. Is there any other way to rig a shoulder belt?

 

[waiting for time]

I would suggest a Metaltech cage, others might be more experienced with them.

 

[workingdog]

@waiting for time - thanks, I didn't know they did that. It's a 40 cage, and I have a 45 body, but I think you can just leave out the back. The only thing I don't like is it doesn't die into the a pillar like the really nice cages to, but I might be able to make that work. Also, it assumes the step up behind the seats that a 45 doesn't have.

 

[workingdog]

Finally got it up on the lift so I can work on the parking brake and a few other things. Look how close together the arms are. It's a little scary.

Now I can get a good look at how the charger sits. I'm not sure I like it. I might have to remove it from here. Either build a flat plate across the bottom to protect it, or it's going to catch every rock in the world. but, there is literally no where else to put it, except maybe out pack behind the battery box.

 

[waiting for time]

@waiting for time - thanks, I didn't know they did that. It's a 40 cage, and I have a 45 body, but I think you can just leave out the back. The only thing I don't like is it doesn't die into the a pillar like the really nice cages to, but I might be able to make that work. Also, it assumes the step up behind the seats that a 45 doesn't have.

You can call them and ask if they can adapt the different parts, they may even have a 45 pickup version.
I contacted them a few years back with some questions and they were very helpful.

 

[workingdog]

I have emailed them.

Went ahead and ripped the charger out last night, will put it behind the battery later today.
Looks like the e-brake will go in without too much trouble, well, a lot of trouble, but it's doable.

 

[workingdog]

So, moved the charger to the back. Don't know I didn't just start there.

fj80 MC and booster arrived from Cruiser Outfitters. However, it needs a spacer.

so, I ordered one from City Racer - maybe should have just ordered the entire thing from him, but I don't know if his MC is large bore.

The drama continues.

Spent a bunch of time under the rig on the lift figuring out the e-brake - I'm going electric actuated. I hope CHP doesn't say it's not street legal.
Also, did a bunch more welding that wasn't easy to get to on the floor.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, while the EV is on the lift, I'm going to take a stab at the skid plate support structure, staring at the back and the Atlas. The transmission cross member is going to be the main structural member of most of the skid plates and is quite stout. I'm going to build one more cross member, not quite as stout behind it - to protect Atlas and where the drivelines meets the Atlas, and then one more cross member in front, near the bellhousing (that's going to have to accommodate the front driveshaft), to protect the NV4500 and bellhousing. The final skid plate will be quite narrow and go forward from there to provide some protection to the motors. They are so high up, they are not likely to take a direct hit, but I want to keep flying rocks and other objects out - as well as as much water as possible.

But, I have very little experience doing this kind of structural work, and I have some questions about the best way to do this.

Here's the transmission cross member. It's bolted in place and the idea is that the skid plates will bolt to it.

Here's where I am going to put the rear cross member for the rear skid plate. It wraps the frame inside and bottom.
the Aqualu frame is 1/4" box tube full length. My question is - with 1/4" wall frame, and the mount wrapped under, can I just tap the frame when I bolt the mount to the frame? Or do I really have to drill all the way through and sleeve the frame. Unlike the trans member, which is sleeved, this cross member is not carrying any load, except when the EV is sitting on a rock. If I tap it 1/2" with two bolts on each side, I'm thinking that has to be good enough. I was thinking of tapping it on the side rather than the bottom so there are no bolt heads for thins to hit, although it's bottom bolted on my 40 and those bolts seem to survive just fine.

Or, I can use rivnuts/nutserts - would they be stronger than threading at 1/2"

Any thoughts?

Here's the material I'm going to build the cross member out of, similar cross section to transmission cross member, but lighter wall.

I was going to use the 1" square tub in the background, but am shying away from it for some reason.

 

[cruisermatt]

if I understand you right, if it is wrapped underneath then the bolts are just preventing it from falling out. Tapping it should be ok with smaller bolts like 3/8", bonus points would be if you were able to weld a nut on the inside of the frame rail (Drill a bigger hole on the opposite side so you can put a flange nut thru)

 

[workingdog]

Update

City Racer spacer works too well.

the studs now only stick into the cab a couple of threads

I'm probably going to have to grind 3/16th's off the spacer - not looking forward to that.
But it's in enough to get it all plumbed up. I tried to bleed it alone, but failed. Have to wait for friend to come over.

For those of you that could not sleep wondering about the rear cross member, sleep is now yours

 

[workingdog]

Parking brake is almost done. It wasn't as bad as I feared. this is the estopp system. it's expensive, but it's complete. It comes designed to only work if the key is off. So a true parking brake. And I wired it that way. That prevents someone from pushing the button by mistake on the freeway. I was thinking of using one of those covered toggles, but the button is actually more complicated than that. It goes on and stays on while the brake is engaged. then you press it again to release the brake and the button. So, the button knows is the brake is applied or not - which a simple toggle switch is not. but, they give you on signal wire that you can use to run an LED if you want.

All I have left to do is swage ends on the cables and lock them into the little bracket, and adjust all that - and give it a try.

 

[workingdog]

The brakes work!!!! Friend came over and we bled the brakes by hand and ... the brakes work!!! Went around the neighborhood for the first time in a while. That felt really good. That's more or less the last 'system' that needed to prove it can work. I now have a fully functioning (if slightly funky) vehicle. Now, just lots and lots and lots of finishing and cleaning up and more finishing and more cleaning up. Please come help. Really ... please ... I need help.

 

[workingdog]

Limit straps are in the rear - finally. Just need some 1" long 1/2" bolts.

 

[1MAC]

Update

City Racer spacer works too well.

View attachment 2992231


the studs now only stick into the cab a couple of threads

View attachment 2992234


I'm probably going to have to grind 3/16th's off the spacer - not looking forward to that.
But it's in enough to get it all plumbed up. I tried to bleed it alone, but failed. Have to wait for friend to come over.


I had to thin out my spacer too, by about the same amount.

 

[workingdog]

@1MAC - good to know. I don't look forward to that.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, tried to put grommets in all the holes, but the aluminum is too thick for standard grommets. Damn it. So, ordered some extra wide.

Also, wired up the front locker. Not sure what pair does what, but we'll figure that out. Need connector for the rear locker. Looking forward to hearing them go click.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, I need help with headlights. Here's what I have, and I can't figure out what to call what I'm missing so I can buy it.

I'm curious if people think a metal hood would be a better option here.

Here's the bib

The three holes match the used SOR bucket nicely.

And I have the ring for the front.

What I don't have is the thing that goes in between, part 46 on the SOR exploding diagram - I think. But, the picture doesn't look right.

People on ebay are selling this, they are calling a gasket - Will this work?

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER FJ25 FJ28 FJ40 FJ45 BJ40 BJ45 HEADLIGHT GASKET | eBay

TOYOTA Land Cruiser Headlight Gasket Set of Two (2). Model Dates: Matching Models: Model Options: Links to diagrams 03/1969-12/1974 FJ45LP-B3 GEN ,PIC ,LHD ,F ,IV ,WORB 81-01. 03/1969-12/1974 FJ45LP-B GEN ,PIC ,LHD ,F ,CBU ,WORB 81-01.

www.ebay.com

They have this picture with all the parts, the listing is for the black part, do I need both the black and the gold parts???

 

[workingdog]

Okay, onto the hood. I have no idea what to do with it, other than roll my eyes.

Looking at the left side and the right side and the gap at the hinges (thought I ordered 2, only ordered 1). You'd think the entire front of the vehicle is off to one side, but the bib is centered on the frame and the body is mounted to the frame. So, I'm pretty sure it's not the car.

In addition to that, since the hood sticks out over the front of the bib, and I've got the bib as forward as I can get it (shifted fender max forward and apron max forward), and the reveal of the hood looks right (with 1/2" spacer, I can't see any real way to support the front or the sides. There's no lip on the front to use anything like the stock pads. The stock side pads aren't right because there's no lip to hang them on. So, I'm kind of clueless as to what to do, short of building a fiberglass lip in each corner. The only way to get the hood to sit farther back is to lower the bib - quite a bit. But then, the line of the cowl and apron looks wrong.

This is a close up of the front. You can see how the edge is over the front of the bib.

Maybe I should do it really old school and just run a leather belt from apron to apron.

 

[workingdog]

Is there any reason this

United Pacific 110384 United Pacific Headlight Brackets | Summit Racing

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www.summitracing.com

or this

United Pacific 110283 United Pacific Headlight Brackets | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - United Pacific Headlight Brackets with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Headlight Housings and Buckets at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Won't work in a 40?

They look the same. And they are not rusty old used crap that's actually more expensive.

 

[workingdog]

Here's the hood off my 40 on the EV. It has the same offset to the side, so there's something wrong about the body. I double checked, center of bib is center of front cross member. But maybe it's an old landcruiser and I need to let the bib float 1/4" to 1/2" to passenger side and so the hood is happy (hit is more work than I really want to do). I like the metal hood look a lot better, and it just sits with more authority, and I can use normal stops. So, off to buy a metal hood!!!

there is a chance that the front end is not assembled correctly and that's putting the bib/nose out of place. I wish had more experience with body panels.