My 383 and driveline is mounted around 3.5° down. I wouldn't hesitate to gain more clearance by remounting it all. A double Cardan can easily make up for all of that.
Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter workingdog
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My 383 and driveline is mounted around 3.5° down. I wouldn't hesitate to gain more clearance by remounting it all. A double Cardan can easily make up for all of that.
workingdog
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- #282
Thanks @DangerNoodle. 4 degrees is 5" I'm thinking of going down 3 at the transmission and 1/2 at the front - which will be less than 3 degrees. Take the body lift down to 1" or thereabouts.
*So, thinking about it, I need 1/2 to 3/4" of an inch for cab clearance, I want to take 1.5" out of the body spacer, so that totals to 2" to 2.25". Not even sure I need to take the front down.
*So, thinking about it, I need 1/2 to 3/4" of an inch for cab clearance, I want to take 1.5" out of the body spacer, so that totals to 2" to 2.25". Not even sure I need to take the front down.
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workingdog
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Okay, I feel like an idiot admitting this, but for those who come after me, I want them to know things go bad sometimes.
I moved from the rear suspension to the front with the idea of setting the axle side lower link as far out as possible and the coil over mount on top of it. the lower link would angle in about 10 degrees. I ordered one set of links/coilover mount combo, waited for it to arrive, but couldn't get the angles right. So I had a set custom made by SendCutSend (which worked great except for Fed Ex), waited for them to be made and arrive. I was very proud of myself.
I set them in place ready to tack them in and once they were on, I looked at the setup and realized they were totally in the way of tire turning. **** me. Coming from the back, I'd totally forgotten to figure tires turning into my thinking. The lower links can't go as far out as possible, they have to go as far in as possible (on these axles there's the diff on one side and the auto sway bar disconnect on the other) and even then, 37's will rub a little and 40's will rub a lot. The coilover still has to be mounted as far out as possible, so it can't be mounted on top of the link. So, all that time and expense was wasted. I could have used totally stock link brackets a month ago and been done with it.
This happens all the time where my lack of experience wastes a lot of time (and money). Like, right now, I'm redoing all the motor and trans mounts. 2 days of steady work redoing something.
Sigh
I moved from the rear suspension to the front with the idea of setting the axle side lower link as far out as possible and the coil over mount on top of it. the lower link would angle in about 10 degrees. I ordered one set of links/coilover mount combo, waited for it to arrive, but couldn't get the angles right. So I had a set custom made by SendCutSend (which worked great except for Fed Ex), waited for them to be made and arrive. I was very proud of myself.
I set them in place ready to tack them in and once they were on, I looked at the setup and realized they were totally in the way of tire turning. **** me. Coming from the back, I'd totally forgotten to figure tires turning into my thinking. The lower links can't go as far out as possible, they have to go as far in as possible (on these axles there's the diff on one side and the auto sway bar disconnect on the other) and even then, 37's will rub a little and 40's will rub a lot. The coilover still has to be mounted as far out as possible, so it can't be mounted on top of the link. So, all that time and expense was wasted. I could have used totally stock link brackets a month ago and been done with it.
This happens all the time where my lack of experience wastes a lot of time (and money). Like, right now, I'm redoing all the motor and trans mounts. 2 days of steady work redoing something.
Sigh
Such is life. I ended up redoing a lot of stuff on my build due to driveline changes. At least everything isn't fully welded.
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I have so much time in that motor mount too 
workingdog
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- #286
@cruisermatt - No, that part is just there, it's just where it attaches to the frame. All your beautiful work that attaches to the motor is all good. It's just 1/2 an inch lower and a new mount on the driver's side.
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workingdog
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Okay, got the cab set down one more time. down from 2" body spacers to 5/8" body spacers. the transmission needs to go down another 1/2" to give the transfer case and rear double cardan joint enough room (also will help front driveline clearance). I also need to lower the charger mount that's under the cab down a little - and I'm going to flip it so the charger bolts up into it. Eventually, there will be skid plate protecting it. hopefully, this is the last step so I can start assembling the trans tunnel and get it off to paint this week. And then back to the front suspension and final install of panhard bar and upper link. While the cab was on, I doubled checked coilover tower clearance to the fender - and there's lots. So, packaging the coilover won't be too complicated - but the front sway bar will be another story.
Looks good! I'm glad you got the body lift down that much. I think they look funny lifted that way.
workingdog
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- #289
The trans hangs down a little more, but it's still close to 20" above ground on 37's.
workingdog
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Okay, finally I can get the transmission tunnel finished and the cab off to paint. Converted the welder to aluminum and I'm going to weld it myself. It's going to be ugly, but it will be self-done. Aluminum welding is so weird. In addition to this, there are ribs on the underside that have to be replace as well, this cut took all of them out. I should really start there to get more practice.
workingdog
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- #291
Okay, the tunnel is welded up and the cab is ready to go for paint. But, I've decided that I'm not going to put the painted body on and then have to take it off 10 times each time I have to adjust something. Between the EV drivetrain, brakes, clutch, steering, various EV component I'd be taking if off and putting it back on constantly - each time disconnecting the brakes and clutch and steering. So, I'm going to build a little bit of firewall and cowl so I can assemble the brakes, clutch and steering but still have access to the entire chassis. Call me crazy ... you won't be the first.
workingdog
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- #292
Was able to make some progress on the front suspension today. (A quick job on the fj40, taking the transmission pan off to swap out the shift lever turned in a big deal when we found a shop towel in the pan and the old shift lever had snapped off in the valve body.) Panhard bar and upper link went in today. Looking for 5 degrees of caster. The bend on the axle side upper bracket wasn't quite right, so a little more persuading with the 24" crescent wrench will be happening. But it's on for now. Now, use the gantry to cycle the front end and see what does wrong. once that's completed, I can locate the coilover mounts, then the bumps stop, and then I get to figure out how to work in the sway bar.
Looking good! I'm running about 7 degrees with my 37's right now, and it feels really good. You should be able to adjust the caster really easily, though.
workingdog
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Per my last email ...
Front coilovers are in. Here are pictures at full bump without coilovers, currently limit up is panhard bar hitting the differential. So, it could get bent more and I could another inch at least. I like the parallel-ness of the drag link and panhard.
Also pictures at full droop with coilovers, still like the drag link/panhard angle. But, I'm never actually going to allow my truck to do this.
And here is my complicated corner. The bump stop will fit inside the coilover in the center of the tower with no problem. Which is great. Don't have to notch the frame.
The sway bar is going to have to come from the front (I was hoping for the back, but the upper link is right where it needs to go). I has to sit behind the front cross member, over the pitman and under the steering input shaft. So, not a lot of real estate to work with, but it's about 15" from the axle, so it should work. But, putting it forward means is has to go outside the panhard bracket, which means the tube needs to sit proud of the frame a couple of inches. I'm going to have to swap my tube and rod for longer ones.
Next step is to cycle the suspension up with coilovers, see if there's enough up travel to even go any higher, make any adjustments to the coilover mounts as necessary, and install the bumps stops. Sway bar is going to have to wait for my mag drill to get back from repair.
Front coilovers are in. Here are pictures at full bump without coilovers, currently limit up is panhard bar hitting the differential. So, it could get bent more and I could another inch at least. I like the parallel-ness of the drag link and panhard.
Also pictures at full droop with coilovers, still like the drag link/panhard angle. But, I'm never actually going to allow my truck to do this.
And here is my complicated corner. The bump stop will fit inside the coilover in the center of the tower with no problem. Which is great. Don't have to notch the frame.
The sway bar is going to have to come from the front (I was hoping for the back, but the upper link is right where it needs to go). I has to sit behind the front cross member, over the pitman and under the steering input shaft. So, not a lot of real estate to work with, but it's about 15" from the axle, so it should work. But, putting it forward means is has to go outside the panhard bracket, which means the tube needs to sit proud of the frame a couple of inches. I'm going to have to swap my tube and rod for longer ones.
Next step is to cycle the suspension up with coilovers, see if there's enough up travel to even go any higher, make any adjustments to the coilover mounts as necessary, and install the bumps stops. Sway bar is going to have to wait for my mag drill to get back from repair.
workingdog
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Okay, forwards and backwards. I asked @bentntwisted to come by and look at the front suspension before I burned it in. He said I had to go to 14" coilovers. So, that means new towers - 4" taller. And he wants them set a couple of inches back from vertical. And changes to the bump stops. So, there's a bunch of work. But, it's going to get me max up travel. So, I'll have that going for me.
The Atlas arrived. And when I looked at the shifter box I realized I had to make more modifications to the tunnel, so, I'm back in aluminum mode for a little bit. The box will fit, but the cables have to run straight forward for a lot more space than his design allows.
And, probably the craziest thing I've done so far, and that's saying something, is I built a small mockup of a cowl so I can get ALL the systems working, while still have access to the ALL the truck. I am so done with taking the cab on and off. And once the brakes, clutch and steering are hooked up, it gets even worse
The Atlas arrived. And when I looked at the shifter box I realized I had to make more modifications to the tunnel, so, I'm back in aluminum mode for a little bit. The box will fit, but the cables have to run straight forward for a lot more space than his design allows.
And, probably the craziest thing I've done so far, and that's saying something, is I built a small mockup of a cowl so I can get ALL the systems working, while still have access to the ALL the truck. I am so done with taking the cab on and off. And once the brakes, clutch and steering are hooked up, it gets even worse
workingdog
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- #296
More progress
Atlas arrived and is in. It didn't want to seat into the NV4500, so I had to draw it in with the bolts. I now have driveline measurements and will call Tom Woods tomorrow. Got the EV harness and parts and Painless harness first pass laid out on the chassis. It's a mess, but it makes sense. One more day and I should have the EV systems working again and see if the motors turn or not. If the motors turn - and I can get the Atlas to turn (engage the NV4500 and engage the Atlas), then it's on to clutch, brakes, cooling, and steering - all of which I figure will take a month (with diversions for converting the front suspension to 14" coilovers, converting the rear to 14" as well). And then it should move on it's own power. So, I'm still hoping to have it driving around under it's own power by Christmas.
The smittybuilt double battery tray I was hoping to use for battery and DC/DC converter didn't work. Got an Artec battery holder that will let me mount the Optima Red Top on it's side.
Atlas arrived and is in. It didn't want to seat into the NV4500, so I had to draw it in with the bolts. I now have driveline measurements and will call Tom Woods tomorrow. Got the EV harness and parts and Painless harness first pass laid out on the chassis. It's a mess, but it makes sense. One more day and I should have the EV systems working again and see if the motors turn or not. If the motors turn - and I can get the Atlas to turn (engage the NV4500 and engage the Atlas), then it's on to clutch, brakes, cooling, and steering - all of which I figure will take a month (with diversions for converting the front suspension to 14" coilovers, converting the rear to 14" as well). And then it should move on it's own power. So, I'm still hoping to have it driving around under it's own power by Christmas.
The smittybuilt double battery tray I was hoping to use for battery and DC/DC converter didn't work. Got an Artec battery holder that will let me mount the Optima Red Top on it's side.
You are ambitious!
Shouldn't draw driveline components together with bolts. That's just causing binding that shouldn't be there. The case should slip easily onto the transmission.
Now that you drew it together, does it spin? Does the transmission spin in gear?
Now that you drew it together, does it spin? Does the transmission spin in gear?
workingdog
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It's hard to explain, but the atlas has an 8" round surface just just fits in the NV4500. It wasn't the input or output that was binding, they slide nicely. I cleaned up both surfaces, but it was still just too snug to wrestle on. Everyting still spins.
workingdog
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Okay, hit a significant milestone today. I moved all the EV and Painless harness and all the EV stuff onto the chassis. Hooked everything up, and it all came back to life, including canbus. Only problem was the motors gave a fault because of the wire that pulled out of the prius throttle connector. So, fix that, and a few small adjustments, and I'm hoping to spin the Atlas today or tomorrow.
Swap coilover over towers in front for the 14" coilovers, so the front suspension is close to functional.
Still hoping to drive it out of the garage under it's own power by Christmas. Just few small things like pedals, an entire brake system, clutch master and slave, steering shafts, cooling for the battery and Hyper 9's (need to pick out a radiator for this), and some kind of seat and seat structure, burn in the front suspension work.
Swap coilover over towers in front for the 14" coilovers, so the front suspension is close to functional.
Still hoping to drive it out of the garage under it's own power by Christmas. Just few small things like pedals, an entire brake system, clutch master and slave, steering shafts, cooling for the battery and Hyper 9's (need to pick out a radiator for this), and some kind of seat and seat structure, burn in the front suspension work.
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