FJ60 Front Axle Rebuild

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Joined
Sep 3, 2018
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16
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78
Location
Los Angeles
Hey guys, somewhat new FJ60 owner here. I'm at that stage where I need to rebuild my front axle. Driver's side is leaking. I'd like to do it myself, and have all the parts to do so. It's just every time I watch the how to, I get overwhelmed and think it's too far over my ability. Is this something someone with not too much mechanical experience can do?

Also, if there's anyone willing to help around the Ventura, CA area, I'd be happy to supply beer for a hand. Thanks
 
Before I did my knuckle rebuild I had only experience with replacing disc brake pads and oil changes. It’s a good way to get some skills and gain some knowledge. It really isn’t that bad. It’s really messy with all the old grease and oil. Take pictures as you remove things. Keep everything in order. And lay out all your new parts in the order that they’ll go back on. If you don’t have a copy of the factory service manual, get one. It will answer all of your questions. If it doesn’t, someone on this forum will. I’ll say this, if you haven’t bought the beefier inner axle seals from marlin crawler then get them. The axle shaft is likely worn out where the OEM seal makes contact and reinstalling the same seal will only lead to premature leakage. The marlin crawler seals extend out a bit more creating a seal in a spot where the axle hasn’t worn a groove. Two years later and I have leaky knuckles again. I should have listened and gone with the Marlin Crawler.
Have faith in yourself! You can do this!
 
I have the rebuild kit from SOR. Is that one good?
Before I did my knuckle rebuild I had only experience with replacing disc brake pads and oil changes. It’s a good way to get some skills and gain some knowledge. It really isn’t that bad. It’s really messy with all the old grease and oil. Take pictures as you remove things. Keep everything in order. And lay out all your new parts in the order that they’ll go back on. If you don’t have a copy of the factory service manual, get one. It will answer all of your questions. If it doesn’t, someone on this forum will. I’ll say this, if you haven’t bought the beefier inner axle seals from marlin crawler then get them. The axle shaft is likely worn out where the OEM seal makes contact and reinstalling the same seal will only lead to premature leakage. The marlin crawler seals extend out a bit more creating a seal in a spot where the axle hasn’t worn a groove. Two years later and I have leaky knuckles again. I should have listened and gone with the Marlin Crawler.
Have faith in yourself! You can do this!
 
SOR is a great distributor. They still provide the OEM style inner axle seals I believe. I used the kit that cruiser outfitters sells. I really wish I had spent an extra $20 and gone with the Marlin Crawler seals. I have to do that job again this spring because of it.
 
Hi, Really pretty simple and logical. Obtain the Landcruiser manual or download it from here. You Need a jack and stands. Plenty of tools. Most tools can be borrowed and Auto Zone loans free. Yes you can do it. Mike
 
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Trail Gear has a replacement for the felt seal that came with my kit. This came complete in my kit but here it is separate.
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I know hojack is driving the 60. But he’s also gone nuts with his amazing modifications... so...
 
Here’s my knuckle rebuild pictures from my build thread.
ARP studs
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Trail Gear knuckle rebuild kit,
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Trail Gear chromoly birfield and axle shaft
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Marlin Crawler High Steer Kit.
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Also if you bend the circular metal seal... god I can’t remember the name, knuckle wiper something or other. I can find it tmrw, you can get it from Napa for $20 something each as opposed to $50 something from Toyota.
As all said above, it’s not a hard job, messy as heck and only time consuming if you decide to really clean and paint stuff up. Keep your expectations low and you won’t be annoyed if stuff comes up. Keep the shims from the top and bottom separate and in order of how they came off ziptied together.

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If you are doing your knuckle job and have the oem seals, then discover a wear groove in the axle, you can leave it short of fully seated as long as it is in most of the way, or it is pretty easy to grind the steel shell thinner so the seal drives farther in. Marlin seals would be better but it keeps you rolling in a pinch.
 
Also Napa has a chassis and bearing grease that comes in a huge tub. I took the advice of a well known mudder who uses it for all instead of buying separate types and went w/ it too.
 
Dive in. This was the first job I ever did on my rig and the most I had done previously was changing oil. You’ll find it’s not the only 22 step process you have to do to replace a $7 part. Just wait until you do your side plate engine gasket
Definitely use a factory service manual.
Also...a mistake I made was not setting the pre-load on the bearings correctly when finishing up. You take the free hub resistance (measured with a fish scale) PLUS tighten the lock nut to the pounds of resistance shown in the FSM.

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Give Georg from Valley Hybrids a call, he’s in Stockton Ca. He’ll have all you parts necessary good time to upgrade brakes while your at it.
 

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