FJ60 Electrical issues

[Scottymeegs]

Yes this has the vacuum pump on the back. From the previous owner I found out it is the original alternator, it has been rebuilt, also modified bracket to accommodate a power steering pump which the original motor never had.

From my manual this looks to be the external alternator? Just by looking at pics I came to this conclusion. But you guys most likely know more than I.

I will do the voltage test tonight when I get done with work and update you from there.

 

[Scottymeegs]

I checked the battery volts and it was 12.6 then I started the truck and checked the volts at the battery again and it was 12.48 while running. That means its not over charging. But on the dash now the charge light is lit so it seems it's not charging now? But Atleast it's not over charging right?? Haha

 

[gregnash]

Well the lower voltage is not a good thing either.. As one of the other guys stated, bring the rpm up to 1500rpm and hold it there and check the voltage once that is done then turn on the lights/radio/heater and check it again and report the voltages.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I wasn't so much worried that it was still a 24V alternator as it was obviously running/driving for quite some time before that. My worry was more that that alternator may have started its life as a 24V and was re-wrapped to 12V, thus introducing a possibility that something with the re-wrap/voltage reg failed and was way over-charging... like 15+ volts.

 

[Scottymeegs]

So Kurt, do you think it had been running with a 24v the whole time then they rebuilt it as 12v?

 

[bj40green]

Hi Scotty,

What year and what market is your FJ60?
I've been looking up all alternators used on the FJ60 series but none looked like the one in your picture.
You wrote that the PO said it's the original (rebuilt) alternator.
Can you check on the alternator for brand and part number?

The 1982 models came with internal or external regulators.
If the truck was equipped with an external regulator it was this (6wire) one and not the 3 wire you showed.


Doesn't matter what you have there, let's start to get the stuff fixed.
How much voltage do you have at 1500 rpm?


Rudi

 

[cruiseroutfit]

So Kurt, do you think it had been running with a 24v the whole time then they rebuilt it as 12v?

You know, I can't recall how Darrell had it wired but I'd suspect it was 12V as I remember him having a dual battery system, i.e. 12V and a back up battery. It's been nearly 10 years since that truck was running the 2H, since it has had a 4BT and then two different V8's If I can catch up to him in the next few days I'll ask.

 

[Scottymeegs]

You know, I can't recall how Darrell had it wired but I'd suspect it was 12V as I remember him having a dual battery system, i.e. 12V and a back up battery. It's been nearly 10 years since that truck was running the 2H, since it has had a 4BT and then two different V8's If I can catch up to him in the next few days I'll ask.

That would be great Kurt, thanks!

And wow that truck has had quite a few transplants!!!

 

[Scottymeegs]

The place the alternator was rebuilt was action alt and starter. I am going to take the alt and reg up there to be tested

 

[Scottymeegs]

I got the alt and vr out today. I couldn't find part numbers on either. I'm taking them to be tested tomorrow.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I got the alt and vr out today. I couldn't find part numbers on either. I'm taking them to be tested tomorrow.

Keep us posted... curious to know what it is putting out.

 

[bj40green]

Keep us posted... curious to know what it is putting out.

Me too.

Rudi

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Chatted with Darrell today, he was running that motor 12V. Assuming that is the same alternator he had, it was re-wrapped for a 12V system. Hope that helps.

 

[Scottymeegs]

thats great Kurt, thank you! That means it is the right alt for the job. Now if they rewound it for a 24v that might have caused the issue. just a possibility. I dropped off the alt and VR this afternoon, should here back by tomorrow.

 

[bj40green]

Found it!

It's a 12V Alternator with internal VR and vacuum pump for Hi Lux and Hi Ace trucks.


Have a look here: -► Hi Ace and Hi Lux alternator with internal regulator

Rudi

 

[Scottymeegs]

It doesn't look exactly like that but close. The pump on the back looks different. As does the plug. I will post a more detailed pic later on today.

I got a call from action alternator and they said the alt was fine, still putting out 55amps as well. But the regulator was jumping all over the place. He didn't see any super high spikes but it wasn't stable. So I am going to pick up a new regulator and put the alt back in and see where we are at charging wise.

 

[Scottymeegs]

So the at action have me a quick over view how it should be wired and it sounds as though it was set up correctly after the swap. I am going to go through and redo the wiring though to make it cleaner and more organized. He had one of those regs in stock as well for $34. Tonight I will dig into getting it back together and break the multimeter out and fingers crossed we might be back in business.

 

[Scottymeegs]

We are back in business!!!! If you look at the wiring pictures you will see the black wire that goes to the alt is connected to the red and white of the vr. This is incorrect. The red and white is the power to the vr and should be connected to the ignition. The green and white of the vr is what is supposed to be connected to the alt. I corrected the wiring and ran the red and white to the ignition slot of the original wiring harness and I'm getting 14.8v at the battery!!!

I want to thank all of you guys for your help and input. Big shout out to action alternator and starter in bountiful. They were extremely helpful and actually walked me through the wiring wire by wire and didn't charge me anything for the testing and instructions. Only for the new vr. I highly recommend them if you are in the Slc area.

One more question, the pic here is the damage to my diesel tach, for someone who is familiar with circuit boards, is this salvageable?? This incident fried both my tach and egt, both of which are not cheap. So is it repairable by some one other than myself? Or should I just sack up and buy both a new tach and egt?

 

[bj40green]

Good to hear that you're back in business!

That tach is repairable if you have the schematics with the part numbers and a guy who knows what he's doing. Not only do you have burned parts but also the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) is "cooked". Under that resistor (if it was that) the board changed into carbon by the heat of the burning. Carbon conducts so a piece has to be removed. Long story short............ It will never be a reliable repair. Maybe the supplier has a replacement program? Call the supplier to find that out.

Rudi

 

[pepela]

Wow this made some pretty interesting reading to finally get most of it all resolved and must say crikey your lucky to still have your car. This reminded me of a situation I had many years ago where a external vr was fitted poorly and lost its earth connection and allowed the full 55amp from the alt to battery which luckily only burnt out my entire electrical wiring loom and not explode the battery placed next to a glass fuel filter system, in a boat 6 miles out to sea. It never ceases to amase me how some will continue to play with hazardous areas as while I agree with your wanting to learn and understand your cars wiring and simply not just pay to fix it I worry that unless you really are convinced you know what caused all this bare in mind history has a way of repeating also so my preferred thoughts would have been pay only someone that will allow you to work alongside as you seemed to find some great support here and paid for. This forum rocks as the best in my experience especially if your stuck on the side of the road with no help. I'm a 60's lover and follower not a knocker. Best of luck.

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