fj40 with a four link (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 28, 2005
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so my partner:princess: and I have been hard at work. we have to travel 2 hours to work on it. but we got the rust holes fixed. the four link under it most of the sheet metal sand blasted and painted. the plans for this weekend are to go spring over in the front and finish the disk brakes in the rear. need to get a rod for a lt1 motor and have the rotating assembly balanced. Computer won't let me post any pics right now, hopefully will have some posted tomorrow.
 
I have 93' LT1 pistons and rods if you are in need....

Kirk
 
Thanks a lot, I need one rod. How much? but do not need pistons but will get what ever you are tired of looking at
 
We are running with 34s but plan to go to 36s. Moved the rear axle back and the front axle forward. Plan to use NV4500 trans with the stock toyota t-case. I am kind of new to the FJ40 fabrication world and I had heard that running the 3 link in the front made it too soft for running at highway speeds. I plan to do a lot of driving with this thing and I need it to be road worthy as well as off road. Do you know differently about the 3 link in the front? That was my original plan until I heard about the above. As far as the pictures for some reason our pictures we download from the digital are saved as a bmp file, which is not acceptable to post and don't really know how to make them a jpeg or other acceptable file, but working on it and hope to have some up shortly. Here they finally are.:censor:

amy.jpeg

amy2.jpeg

amy3.jpeg
amy.jpeg
amy2.jpeg
amy3.jpeg
 
open the file using microsoft fax and photo viewer, then click save, when the box comes up change the bottom drop box to jpeg. Now lets see some more pics.

:beer:
 
well we got the axle back under it. my brakes and ps hardwear did not come. some going in the monday to get my ps gm gear box. and chevy tilt steering column.
 
Because the links are far too small , they look like one and a quarter , what wall? even if they were solid they will bend . My opinion , on a shortwheel base cruiser you fight alot of axlewrap I think you will be much better off running 1.75 .375 lowers and 1.5-1.75 .250 . These are pretty common sizes to use as far as my reaserch has told me . I am getting ready to link mine soon and will run 2" .500 lowers and 1.75 .375 upper:flamingo:
 
i was told they would work. dom 1.500 od with a 3/8 wall. :idea: so i am going to try it
 
they might hold, but don't be surprised when you bend them...my lowers are 1.5 OD and sleeved to .465ish wall, and one is bent now....

what eye-to-eye length are the lowers and uppers?
 
thanks for the look out. if they bend i will go bigger. i am new to the 4x4 world. so i get a lot of help from proffitt's. and now the help from people on mud. thanks for all the help. i got my tausus fan bolted up to night. look good to me.
 
We need more pics.

We need more pics.

JR
 
will have some more. by the of the week. i going to get ps box mounted. if the mount gets here. cut shock mount off the front and find a good place for the rear mounts to go. some help on the would be good. here a good pic of the rear. 40 o1.JPG thanks
40 o1.JPG
 
i have a ? about slider what size pipe to use and should it be dom tumeing.
 
for the sliders, you can get away with "cheaper" options, since it's not structurally critical....DOM isn't required.
 
i did not get my new parts. so it has been a slow moving. on the 40 :mad:. the wheel base is at like 101 in. 39 in on the lower links. and a about 36 on upper links. but the good news is i had so :beer: will have so pics of shock place ment. a little later so some one can tell me what you think.
 
coolcruiserfj40 said:
reguarding linking the front, some jeeps come with the front linked and some idiots even drive them

Thats funny. That should be in your sig line!
 

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