FJ40 Rebuild Help! Chassis Axle leaf Springs

[JaxFJ]

Hi Everyone,

First off thank you in advance for any and all the advice or heckling LOL. Comment wherever you'd like!
The GOAL - running resto-mod, disc brakes all around plus a drivetrain so I can go over 55 mph. Let me know if you want me to video all the work (youtube). No not a trained mechanic or welder but can turn a wrench for sure probably better "project wrong way".

I just bought a FJ40 1978 chassis (non-rolling) sand blasted and primed right now. Congrats to me!!!! LOL. This chassis needs some work the 30,000 foot view see below. Wondering if you guys had advice, issues, or dreams of a better setup axle/diff/leaf spring wise? What should I do given the below? Trying to get her to a rolling chassis setup at the moment.

Chassis - current replacement parts needed (not yet on order)
Front bumper gussets (trail-tailor or cheaper @ Mr. Landcruiser minus the shipping)
Front Cross member - Mr. landcruiser
Front and Rear Spring Perch - BTB guys
12inches onward at the rear of the C-Channel including rear cross - member
Rear Cross member

* all parts plus the welding is likely going to put me out $1000-$1500 ugh!​

Used Axle setup (my current options)??
* I plan to do hub rebuild plus disc conversion where needed (might do 30 spline where needed and upgrade gear ratios where needed)
FJ55 Axles/diffs front and rear complete ($275)(which according to the Man-a-FE/BTB guys are the exact swap to the 40

* assuming this will be the easier setup considering not having to buy and weld spring perches for the​

• Do disc brake conversion kit all 4 corners?
• Swap the hubs for the FJ60s below and have at least the front disc brakes from the 60
• I heard I could also do a direct diff swap here as well (not totally sure??)

FJ60 Axles/diffs front and rear complete ($550) to swap everything out at the hub/knuckle mainly because disc brakes.

• Straight swap the 60 series and forget about the FJ55s? *assuming more welding work but I get disc brake fronts already done.
• Considering I am already going to have to weld in new spring perches, yet this forum is filled will shotty advice and pics for this conversion on the spring placement (seems hard and unusual if you ask me)
• If I go this route are there any other parts you think I should grab from the donor vehicle?
• Who would advice against this given your experience?

FJ80 Axles ($750)

1. Same as above but assuming the welding is much harder than the fj60 and don't see many kits for this swap meaning it would be piecemealed together ie. spring perches/mounts
2. I get Disc brakes all around (That's some savings right there)
3. Assuming most will say if I don't plan on wheeling it then don't bother, right.

Suggest what you think here on the Axles and spring setup?

Leaf Springs and Shackles (planned on all NEW here)

OME - every says its the best (Any opinions on lift options here)​

Dobinson - Next on list as its cheaper but also good reco​

Bilstein Shocks with aftermarket Springs​

Drivertrain options (remember I have nothing so far) *thou seen a 2f in a salvage near me for way more money than I am willing to spend

LS1 w/auto transmission - seems like less work with available parts​

?? - 5.3L or 6.0 any suggestions here​

2F w/5speed - unfortunately this option requires a ton of rebuild or expensive reman engine​

Any advice here or scrap that idea?​

Any other toyota engine swaps suggestions that have mounting kits?​

All the Best Matt


Extra info for the boys!!!!
Chat GPT spits outs all this info if you ask it the right questions (maybe some of you would find this as a helpful)

Diffrential​	Width (WMS to WMS)​	Front Spline Count​	Rear Spline Count​	Axle Diameter (in)​	Front Brakes​	Rear Brakes​
Stock FJ40	55 inches	27	30	1.31	Disc (after 1976)	Drum
FJ60/FJ62	58 inches	27	30	1.31	Disc	Drum
FJ80/FZJ80	63 inches	30	30	1.31	Disc	Disc
9.5-Inch Full-Float (HJ60/61)	58 inches	30	30	1.31	Disc	Drum
Pickup/4Runner (8-Inch)	55–58 inches	27	30	1.31	Disc	Drum
Ford 9-Inch	58–61 inches	Varies	Varies	Varies	Varies	Varies
Dana 60	62–65 inches	Varies	Varies	Varies	Varies	Varies
GM 14-Bolt	63–67 inches	Varies	Varies	Varies	Varies	Varies
80-Series Factory Locker	63 inches	30	30	1.31	Disc	Disc
GX470 (Front)	63 inches	30	N/A	1.31	Disc	N/A
GX470 (Rear)	63 inches	N/A	30	1.31	N/A	Disc

Differential	Width (WMS to WMS)	Notes
Stock FJ40 Rear Differential	55 inches	Compact, good for stock setups or light off-roading.
FJ60/FJ62 Rear Differential	58 inches	Slightly wider, offering better stability. Easy bolt-on upgrade.
FJ80/FZJ80 Rear Differential	63 inches	Much wider, great for off-road or lifted setups. Requires body mods.
Pickup/4Runner 8-Inch	55–58 inches	Early models match FJ40; later models slightly wider.
9.5-Inch Full-Floating Axle	58 inches	Heavy-duty, matches FJ60 width.
Ford 9-Inch	58–61 inches	Versatile width, depends on donor vehicle.
Dana 60	62–65 inches	Strong but wide; great for extreme off-road builds.
GM 14-Bolt	63–67 inches	Extremely wide; suitable for heavy-duty off-road use.
80-Series Locker	63 inches	Excellent for stability; often chosen for larger tire setups.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Not a good plan to insult members in the first paragraph in your first post.

 

[JaxFJ]

Not a good plan to insult members in the first paragraph in your first post.

Are you talking about the sarcasm with my favorite FJ40 youtuber "project wrong way". Respectfully I think that's not Hardly insulting at all. But I am happy to repost without that.

 

[Grayscale]

The offset of the FJ40 transfercase is likely a technical issue. The driveshafts might be a bit twisted at compound angles if you were running a centered differential (like a Pickup / 4Runner) on a stockish transfercase.

It is really hard building a modified truck around some cool vintage hood-hooks and headlight bezel. I mean expensive / time and space consumptive. I know a guy who took it all apart for engine valves and a 5-speed - the replacement valves didn't fit and the 5-speed (adapter to split-case is too long, even with the V-8) didn't fit either. That kind of thing happens when a couple of engine heads justify the upgrade to an LS. Ultimately, the FJ40 king-pin angle remains like the king pin angle for 29-inch treads, which is fine if you do enough caster correction (during the second or thrird attempt at a knuckle-turn), for the SOA and double-Cardan driveshaft. Caster correction, home-brew SOA suspension, no ABS, no airbags, noise, heat, family of three in a car with two installed seats, fenders that don't protect much from debris thrown off of 35-inch mud terrains, a garage with a non-running car and cache of left-over parts- call me a 'purist,' but it is kinda hard to justify the vintage LC with a modern air-conditioned and capable, daily driver-4x4 which was displaced to the driveway.

 

[JaxFJ]

The offset of the FJ40 transfercase is likely a technical issue. The driveshafts might be a bit twisted at compound angles if you were running a centered differential (like a Pickup / 4Runner) on a stockish transfercase.

It is really hard building a modified truck around some cool vintage hood-hooks and headlight bezel. I mean expensive / time and space consumptive. I know a guy who took it all apart for engine valves and a 5-speed - the replacement valves didn't fit and the 5-speed (adapter to split-case is too long, even with the V-8) didn't fit either. That kind of thing happens when a couple of engine heads justify the upgrade to an LS. Ultimately, the FJ40 king-pin angle remains like the king pin angle for 29-inch treads, which is fine if you do enough caster correction (during the second or thrird attempt at a knuckle-turn), for the SOA and double-Cardan driveshaft. Caster correction, home-brew SOA suspension, no ABS, no airbags, noise, heat, family of three in a car with two installed seats, fenders that don't protect much from debris thrown off of 35-inch mud terrains, a garage with a non-running car and cache of left-over parts- call me a 'purist,' but it is kinda hard to justify the vintage LC with a modern air-conditioned and capable 4x4 that was displaced to the driveway.

 

[Wasatch Jay]

I hope this comes across as friendly advice, rather than harsh words from a know-it-all.

In my opinion, starting from scratch with nothing but a non-rolling chassis - and building a complete vehicle from that point is perhaps the most expensive and most difficult way to do it. When it comes to setting goals, they need to be achievable, and for someone with self-confessed limited knowledge and experience, I think you may be setting yourself up for some expensive lessons, or perhaps even failure.

You need literally everything, and that means a heck of a lot of small parts you can’t even think of. You’ll have to figure out you need them, find them, buy them and pay shipping on them. Then wait for them to arrive. Many parts you’ll buy used, perhaps on ebay, and you’ll have the experience of buying stuff that turns out to not nearly as nice as the seller described.

Honestly, I think you should think seriously of looking for a complete, or near complete rig with many of the upgrades you want. You will be way ahead on dollars, way ahead on time, and way ahead on frustration.

This has nothing to do with FJ40s, but I hope it’s illustrative. A few years ago I wanted to buy a used airplane. I wanted one that was well maintained, and had a lot of modifications such as a bigger engine, newer avionics, etc, etc etc. I looked for quite a while, and eventually found one that was the previous owner’s “baby”. He had poured money into this thing, and by poured, I’m talking dumping 5 gallon buckets (plural) worth. You never get all your money out of that stuff, and I basically paid for some of the upgrades - but got the airplane itself for nothing, along with other modifications.

Please give serious thought to your game plan, but I wish you well with whatever route you choose.

 

[JaxFJ]

The offset of the FJ40 transfercase is likely a technical issue. The driveshafts might be a bit twisted at compound angles if you were running a centered differential (like a Pickup / 4Runner) on a stockish transfercase.

It is really hard building a modified truck around some cool vintage hood-hooks and headlight bezel. I mean expensive / time and space consumptive. I know a guy who took it all apart for engine valves and a 5-speed - the replacement valves didn't fit and the 5-speed (adapter to split-case is too long, even with the V-8) didn't fit either. That kind of thing happens when a couple of engine heads justify the upgrade to an LS. Ultimately, the FJ40 king-pin angle remains like the king pin angle for 29-inch treads, which is fine if you do enough caster correction (during the second or thrird attempt at a knuckle-turn), for the SOA and double-Cardan driveshaft. Caster correction, home-brew SOA suspension, no ABS, no airbags, noise, heat, family of three in a car with two installed seats, fenders that don't protect much from debris thrown off of 35-inch mud terrains, a garage with a non-running car and cache of left-over parts- call me a 'purist,' but it is kinda hard to justify the vintage LC with a modern air-conditioned and capable 4x4 that was displaced to the driveway.

Yea all great

I hope this comes across as friendly advice, rather than harsh words from a know-it-all.

In my opinion, starting from scratch with nothing but a non-rolling chassis - and building a complete vehicle from that point is perhaps the most expensive and most difficult way to do it. When it comes to setting goals, they need to be achievable, and for someone with self-confessed limited knowledge and experience, I think you may be setting yourself up for some expensive lessons, or perhaps even failure.

You need literally everything, and that means a heck of a lot of small parts you can’t even think of. You’ll have to figure out you need them, find them, buy them and pay shipping on them. Then wait for them to arrive. Many parts you’ll buy used, perhaps on ebay, and you’ll have the experience of buying stuff that turns out to not nearly as nice as the seller described.

Honestly, I think you should think seriously of looking for a complete, or near complete rig with many of the upgrades you want. You will be way ahead on dollars, way ahead on time, and way ahead on frustration.

This has nothing to do with FJ40s, but I hope it’s illustrative. A few years ago I wanted to buy a used airplane. I wanted one that was well maintained, and had a lot of modifications such as a bigger engine, newer avionics, etc, etc etc. I looked for quite a while, and eventually found one that was the previous owner’s “baby”. He had poured money into this thing, and by poured, I’m talking dumping 5 gallon buckets (plural) worth. You never get all your money out of that stuff, and I basically paid for some of the upgrades - but got the airplane itself for nothing, along with other modifications.

Please give serious thought to your game plan, but I wish you well with whatever route you choose.

Well, I hear you on those points for sure. I think shipping the pieces is the most expensive thing I have noticed. You sound like my wife who says it in a different way, LOL. I do have my sights on a 1978 that has the full drivetrain but only the cowl forward with rusty bent body parts. That donor would have everything engine and drive train wise thou of course I would have to get the engine rebuilt then buy new components bits and pieces etc. In terms of the body which I am less concerned about given the aqualu guys or china full body ($12000 ship to my door) fully primed and painted solution. I wish your airplane example applied to our FJ40 enthusiast community in terms of price. I will send progress picks as I go along here. Trying not to be stubborn here but my stub my toe for sure. I feel like I have watched over 300 hrs of builds over the past 5 years and it still does not make me an expert on much at all.

 

[archie73]

1. Most important thing the forum needs to know is what do you want from the truck?Cars n’ Coffee? Hunting/fishing access? Daily? Trail truck? Resale?
2. We need a little more on your capabilities. It could be you’re a seasoned wrench, up and coming fabricator or the guy with a thick wallet. No shame in any of those, but it’ll change what advice we give you.
3. More info on the 40 would be good. You mention that there is no drivetrain currently installed. What was the last drivetrain to be in the vehicle? If it’s a north American market 1978, it already has disc brakes. If it’s not, then it likely has drums. If has drums, it likely came from a place where the cruiser is used much harder than the average truck here in the USA. With that in mind, go over the frame very carefully before making any kind parts purchases.
4. 40/55 axles are the same width. 76 & up will have disc brakes. 60/62 are a slightly wider version of the earlier axles. They will have a more desirable steering knuckle pattern (stronger) than 1976-78. FJ80 axles are a little wider yet. Rear shares the same differential(9.5) as 40/55/60/62- with exception of a fine spline pinion. Front shares its differential(8”) with minitrucks- still strong. The older the axle (76 & up) the easier they are to swap. Fj80’s require removing a lot brackets.
5. Discs are not the end all be all, just depends on what you want out of the truck. When properly serviced, drums work just as good as disc.
6. F/2F vs V8 Engines-personal choice. Both when done well, will give years of smiles and good resale. Both can be money pits. Both can be sourced fairly cheaply- if you’re willing to be patient. For my personal reasons, I prefer the LS varietal- parts availability, power, drivability… To be fair tho, I’m long past stock.

 

[archie73]

Honestly, I think you should think seriously of looking for a complete, or near complete rig with many of the upgrades you want. You will be way ahead on dollars, way ahead on time, and way ahead on frustration.

While it might not be what the heart wants, this is good advice. Be honest about what you’re capable of doing and learning to do. These things are a journey, they don’t always reach their destination.

Please give serious thought to your game plan, but I wish you well with whatever route you choose.

I love a project- I just picked up another god help me. My wife tinkers with the house, I like trucks. It’s unlikely I’ll ever get any real money back compared to what I put into these projects, but I can’t wait to start the next one. Just gotta get the current one out of the way…

 

[JaxFJ]

1. Most important thing the forum needs to know is what do you want from the truck?Cars n’ Coffee? Hunting/fishing access? Daily? Trail truck? Resale?
2. We need a little more on your capabilities. It could be you’re a seasoned wrench, up and coming fabricator or the guy with a thick wallet. No shame in any of those, but it’ll change what advice we give you.
3. More info on the 40 would be good. You mention that there is no drivetrain currently installed. What was the last drivetrain to be in the vehicle? If it’s a north American market 1978, it already has disc brakes. If it’s not, then it likely has drums. If has drums, it likely came from a place where the cruiser is used much harder than the average truck here in the USA. With that in mind, go over the frame very carefully before making any kind parts purchases.
4. 40/55 axles are the same width. 76 & up will have disc brakes. 60/62 are a slightly wider version of the earlier axles. They will have a more desirable steering knuckle pattern (stronger) than 1976-78. FJ80 axles are a little wider yet. Rear shares the same differential(9.5) as 40/55/60/62- with exception of a fine spline pinion. Front shares its differential(8”) with minitrucks- still strong. The older the axle (76 & up) the easier they are to swap. Fj80’s require removing a lot brackets.
5. Discs are not the end all be all, just depends on what you want out of the truck. When properly serviced, drums work just as good as disc.
6. F/2F vs V8 Engines-personal choice. Both when done well, will give years of smiles and good resale. Both can be money pits. Both can be sourced fairly cheaply- if you’re willing to be patient. For my personal reasons, I prefer the LS varietal- parts availability, power, drivability… To be fair tho, I’m long past stock.

1. I would like it as a daily and lite trails. My old 2008 FJ (picture attached) was my pretty capable rock crawler that I enjoyed for about five years. Not afraid to scratch the new paint and use an FJ40 for what its meant to do. Want to be able to hop in and drive it across state without worries.
2. I would say not a seasoned wrench thou have a couple experienced welder friends and mechanics if I get into something over my head. Currently done full brakes, control arms, struts, shockes, lift kits in the drive on all my current owned Toyotas. Having a reputable guy locally swaping and engine into my landrover as now. Not a thick wallet guy but willing to spend on the things I can't do myself. I have a guy swapping out my wife's landrover engine at the moment.
3. Bought the "frame" $300 bucks and Sand blasted for $500. The FJ in the salvage yard is missing the knuckle onward in front. Hoping the FJ55 is a later year and has the disc brakes. Hence, the reason for maybe purchasing the FJ60 axles and take those knuckles and brakes.
4. Gotcha - I think I may
5. Yea true. I have drums on the rear of my 2021 Tacoma not sure why I am prioritizing rear disc's. Maybe I will talk myself into drums for starters.
6. Agree with you on the V8. After much research on both and parts availability seems like the V8 is a good route. Given that there a plenty of full GM LS drive trains with ECU out there for what I would consider cheap. I literally just missed a working 2F for $500 which would have been the route I was going to go and so that 2f option is limited considering.

Currently have plenty of work ahead of me getting a rolling chassis in place so I may come back around to the engine consideration questions.

 

[knuckle47]

Well, welcome to the forum…. This is THE encyclopedia Britannica of Land cruisers and I’m sure you found this out. As I read all of the above posts, they all come from passionate people who love seeing a land cruiser resurrected from beyond.

I’ll toss in some of my own experiences from my long Land Cruiser journeys.

Disk brakes? I find the difference terrific. All of my FJ40’s and 45’s have been drum brakes until my last FJ45 which is all four wheel disc. My FJ40 is undergoing an FJ60 front disk swap and 3.70 gearing differentials. The cost has been more than anticipated and I have not yet taken the tires/wheels off.

Small parts? Holy crow, $300.00 delivers a 4x6” box of very little. Based on your description, starting with a complete but minimal fully running truck will put you head and shoulders over where you will be in 4-6 months of continuous work.

I’m not trying to influence your decisions just that I have been over my head and don’t wish it on anyone

Best of luck …and don’t be a stranger, post pictures and ‘ Project Wrong Way’ is one of my most favorite you tube channels. Ben is a really nice guy

 

[archie73]

1. I would like it as a daily and lite trails. My old 2008 FJ (picture attached) was my pretty capable rock crawler that I enjoyed for about five years. Not afraid to scratch the new paint and use an FJ40 for what its meant to do. Want to be able to hop in and drive it across state without worries.
2. I would say not a seasoned wrench thou have a couple experienced welder friends and mechanics if I get into something over my head. Currently done full brakes, control arms, struts, shockes, lift kits in the drive on all my current owned Toyotas. Having a reputable guy locally swaping and engine into my landrover as now. Not a thick wallet guy but willing to spend on the things I can't do myself. I have a guy swapping out my wife's landrover engine at the moment.
3. Bought the "frame" $300 bucks and Sand blasted for $500. The FJ in the salvage yard is missing the knuckle onward in front. Hoping the FJ55 is a later year and has the disc brakes. Hence, the reason for maybe purchasing the FJ60 axles and take those knuckles and brakes.

Ok, that gives me more of the picture. The practical side of me says @Wasatch Jay is spot on. Go find one with all the upgrades you want. You’ll be time and money ahead- as I understand it you have a frame and body. There’s so many more pieces!! Additionally, there’s a lot of builds out there that fit your description. Be patient, there’ll be a deal that’ll fit your needs/budget.

The devil on my shoulder says, a bare frame is a blank canvas. Fj80 axles are overkill and too wide for what you want to do. The 60 axles will be a good compromise. (& your prices are cheaper than what I see around here). If you want to drive across the state, the ls is tough to beat. But there’s a lot to figure out first.

 

[JaxFJ]

Well, welcome to the forum…. This is THE encyclopedia Britannica of Land cruisers and I’m sure you found this out. As I read all of the above posts, they all come from passionate people who love seeing a land cruiser resurrected from beyond.

I’ll toss in some of my own experiences from my long Land Cruiser journeys.

Disk brakes? I find the difference terrific. All of my FJ40’s and 45’s have been drum brakes until my last FJ45 which is all four wheel disc. My FJ40 is undergoing an FJ60 front disk swap and 3.70 gearing differentials. The cost has been more than anticipated and I have not yet taken the tires/wheels off.

Small parts? Holy crow, $300.00 delivers a 4x6” box of very little. Based on your description, starting with a complete but minimal fully running truck will put you head and shoulders over where you will be in 4-6 months of continuous work.

I’m not trying to influence your decisions just that I have been over my head and don’t wish it on anyone

Best of luck …and don’t be a stranger, post pictures and ‘ Project Wrong Way’ is one of my most favorite you tube channels. Ben is a really nice guy

Thanks for the response and love your handle name "Knuckle47". Yea I was a early watcher of the "Project Wrong Way" great episodes. Plan to make some videos and post pictures here soon. The chassis is in the garage (on its side) and just waiting on some parts. Let the "resurrection begin"

 

[JaxFJ]

Ok, that gives me more of the picture. The practical side of me says @Wasatch Jay is spot on. Go find one with all the upgrades you want. You’ll be time and money ahead- as I understand it you have a frame and body. There’s so many more pieces!! Additionally, there’s a lot of builds out there that fit your description. Be patient, there’ll be a deal that’ll fit your needs/budget.

The devil on my shoulder says, a bare frame is a blank canvas. Fj80 axles are overkill and too wide for what you want to do. The 60 axles will be a good compromise. (& your prices are cheaper than what I see around here). If you want to drive across the state, the ls is tough to beat. But there’s a lot to figure out first.

I hear you and thanks for your response for sure, much appreciated. I will keep a look out for sure. I think that Devil is living on my shoulder as well. I think I have more peace of mind pulling apart an axle knowing that I am replacing with newer fresh goodies. Yet, I think I could be underestimating all the parts small bits that are hard to find... we shall see. Stay tuned for more!!!

 

[Grayscale]

My first Cruiser was one mistake after the other. My personality isn't strong enough to deal with stress with automotive swaps. I almost lost it with a transmission swap on a 3-speed '73 which I didn't fully appreciate at the time to an SM420. So, I think of myself as a purist. That said, I'd also be looking for a 'Chevy 250' with a separate exhaust manifold ('78 and earlier). It has the same bore/stroke, and redline data as SBC, iiac. The adapters would be the same as a similar vintage SBC. The advantage of the GM straight-6 is you get to keep the battery in a stock location, just one exhaust bank, just one head, no reach to the radiator, plenty of room for steering and air circulation. Some of them came with HEI distributors, or you can update it with HEI. There would probably be some installation challenges that never really resolve, but, I like the vintage of the 'stovebolt' motor - it runs on a carburetor. There are other straight-6 motors, like AMC, but, I've never seen them on Mud, or in a Cruiser. A 2F is really unique in that it has a long piston stroke, which is great for low rpm, but, is lacking on the highway. Maybe 2Fs are hard to source, but from my experience, it is hard to find an uncraked intake manifold for them, the rest of the engine is cake.

 

[White Stripe]

I would go with fj60 axles. If you just have a frame I would build a fj43 rather than a 40. Then I would do a LS lm7 to 4l60e trans to fj60 tcase. Would be a great daily driver. Aqualu has both the frame and body.

 

[JaxFJ]

I would go with fj60 axles. If you just have a frame I would build a fj43 rather than a 40. Then I would do a LS lm7 to 4l60e trans to fj60 tcase. Would be a great daily driver. Aqualu has both the frame and body.

HMM! Interesting consideration here. I think I would have rather started with the fj43 frame thou if I were going to do that. Diff fj60 axles, 4L60e, and FJ60 tcase (LSm7 bro I wish). Need to think thru this engine thing for sure.

 

[cruzinfj1]

Get in the classifieds, and pick up an abandoned project. You will be WAY ahead in the long run. Im building a 40, strictly crawler, but I can tell you this: s*** ADDS UP QUICK, and I had a LOT of stuff laying here already for it.

Where are you finding sets of 80 axles for $750?? Ill buy them all right now....

 

[JaxFJ]

Get in the classifieds, and pick up an abandoned project. You will be WAY ahead in the long run. Im building a 40, strictly crawler, but I can tell you this: s*** ADDS UP QUICK, and I had a LOT of stuff laying here already for it.

Where are you finding sets of 80 axles for $750?? Ill buy them all right now....

about to pickup both fj60 axles for $550. I found a junk 80 being sold for $1000 so the only thing good on it are the axles probably can get them lower than $750 I will let you know this week when I lay eyes on them (I don't want the 80s) but could grab and hold for you.

 

[White Stripe]

HMM! Interesting consideration here. I think I would have rather started with the fj43 frame thou if I were going to do that. Diff fj60 axles, 4L60e, and FJ60 tcase (LSm7 bro I wish). Need to think thru this engine thing for sure.

You can buy a fj43 frame from aqualu. Just weld the 78 fj40 vin on the fj43 frame. A LM7 is a gen 3, 5.3 LS truck motor. Easy to find and inexpensive.