FJ40 Fuel Gauge

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Looks like maybe that W/R with the ring connector attached to the seat mounting bolt is the acting sender ground, which will work for that. If the gauge worked before, then there must have been a wire connected to the sender that’s connected to the gauge. The wires I mentioned before are original color coded wires for this, and it looks like they’re there under the tank. Disconnect your battery, and try and get access to the back of your gauge cluster and check continuity with the gauge and the Y/R wire. If good then that can get reattached to the sender positive terminal. You can leave the W/R as the ground (it should attach to one of the sender hold down screws and the other end with loop to the seat bolt, but only temporary!) but eventually you should attach the B/W wire as the ground. You can test to see if it has continuity by metering between it and the frame somewhere where there’s bare contact, or even the negative terminal of the battery. If good then I’d reconnect that B/W the sender (screw) as the ground.

For overall ground you should have the negative battery cable connected to the engine block (most use one of the engine mount bolts), and a heavy ground cable/strap from one of the starter mount bolts to the frame. Good bare connections all.
 
Looks like maybe that W/R with the ring connector attached to the seat mounting bolt is the acting sender ground, which will work for that. If the gauge worked before, then there must have been a wire connected to the sender that’s connected to the gauge. The wires I mentioned before are original color coded wires for this, and it looks like they’re there under the tank. Disconnect your battery, and try and get access to the back of your gauge cluster and check continuity with the gauge and the Y/R wire. If good then that can get reattached to the sender positive terminal. You can leave the W/R as the ground (it should attach to one of the sender hold down screws and the other end with loop to the seat bolt, but only temporary!) but eventually you should attach the B/W wire as the ground. You can test to see if it has continuity by metering between it and the frame somewhere where there’s bare contact, or even the negative terminal of the battery. If good then I’d reconnect that B/W the sender (screw) as the ground.

For overall ground you should have the negative battery cable connected to the engine block (most use one of the engine mount bolts), and a heavy ground cable/strap from one of the starter mount bolts to the frame. Good bare connections all.
Great info and really appreciate the step by step instructions, will take a look at that today.... Thanks again 👍🏼
 
Reading your info again and seeing that the y/R wire just about reaches the sender I'm beginning to think it maybe it was connected to the lonesome spade connector there.... Maybe it did work, but because wire so tightly pulled it just snapped free of the spade connector.
Seems an easy check (famous last words)
 
Reading your info again and seeing that the y/R wire just about reaches the sender I'm beginning to think it maybe it was connected to the lonesome spade connector there.... Maybe it did work, but because wire so tightly pulled it just snapped free of the spade connector.
Seems an easy check (famous last words)
Yep!
Exactly why I love forums.... A few pointers, bits of info and 10mins of knowledge sharing by *middlecalf* and I have a working fuel gauge!

Only temp I admit as I will take his advice and set it up correctly in near future.
Thanks again

(now to try understand where my cannister/valves/hard lines should be and look like in a '79 Hj45 haha)
 
PM sent.
 
@NavyFJ40 sorry bro, all sold.
Can you tell me if a 83310-60014 works for 9/74 production date. Parts list I got from forum has 83310-60013 for ‘73-79 but the ohms on the senders ‘72-79 and ‘80 on. are the same. I also see Toyota Parts Dealers listing the 83310-60014 as being for ‘72-80.

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