FJ40 ENGINE HELP!!! (1 Viewer)

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I own a 77 FJ40; I have a major problem with my engine and need some advice as to what I should do. I'll get right to it.

My harmonic balancer has somehow over-extended its rotation around the crankshaft. This caused the key to basically wear down the notch of the external tip of the crankshaft thus, my engine is dead with no timing what so ever. As of right now the LC is sitting at a friends house while I reluctantly drive a taurus station wagon. Im in college with no dough($), so Id like to find out the cheapest way possible to fix my baby.

Since the tip of the crankshaft is the only thing damaged, I was thinking about just simply welding a new key to it. I know this sounds horrible, but I dont have the money yet to rebuild the engine. Do you think that this would work?

Everything else is fine, The tip of the crankshaft is complety worn down by the balancer, so it has about an inch and half of play. What can I do to fix this problem??
Please respond, and help would be most appreciated. sry for the long post.
 
did that in a samurai put a nail in the keyway and fried it fast just try not to heat that seal up to much or your screwed :slap:
 
Bad news about the crank shaft - unfortunately I know your pain all too well. For a quick answer - check the last year's back issues of Toyota Trails - a few articles in tech section on this very issue. (recent issue has something on this also).
Long answer, without taking out the crank not much you can do but what you are going to try - weld it on. If you remove the crank - have all the bearing surfaces checked to be sure its worth the effort but I've heard about a process called "spray welding" that specialty machine shops/crank shops can do that basically builds up the metal and they can then re-machine/turn it back down to spec. All of that is not inexpensive and frankly you can just about buy a reman'd crank and bearing kit from several suppliers for what you will eventually have in "fixing" the old one. I opt'd for a new reman'd crank kit from SOR. Bottomline, the little metal tab behind the pulley nut is important - use it if not also add a "little tack weld" to keep it in place. Sorry for the bad news but its only $$. Good luck
 
F and 2F cranks will interchange. Cheap route would be to get a used crank have it polished, around $40, add rod and main bearings for around $50. Give the welding a try but I dont hold out much hope
 
Mark W. had a good remedy for this and I believe it involved brazing (lower temps and easier to file). Once you get the groove cleaned out on the HB-pulley and on the crank you basically braze on a new key and carefully file it to fit. I suppose you could reconstruct any damage to the HB-pulley by either brazing or welding making sure not to heat up the rubber, maybe put it in water (spatter!)or a block of ice or wet rags. This is when a dremel and some good files pay off. Make sure not to get filings into your engine.
Check the lcml archives.
 

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