First post on the 100 side...

[paflytyer]

In my opinion, the body lift looks ridiculous (that's just me). Since you'll be keeping the stock bumpers, you can close the gaps though. If you're buying aftermarket bumpers, you can't. (except Dissent Offroad now offers a bumper for the BL) If you're building your own bumpers, you can build them to fit. There isn't enough play in the ARB bumper to close the gap and there are no rear bumpers that can be raised/lowered to fit.

The body lift is at least an 8 hour job (I promise, even if you think you're really fast) The brake line on the passenger side may need to be rerouted (mine did). You need at least a 1/4" steering spacer (I needed 1/2"), you need to lower the radiator 1" as well. I wouldn't do it again if I was starting over and there is no way I would do it if I was only running 33's. It's gonna make the tires look tiny. If you like how the truck sits at 2.5" lift, why not just get the 865's and add a spacer?

And yes, 18s on my truck. I considered going to a 16 for the sidewall, but just went with a bigger 18" tire instead.

 

[lostih]

I guess I was concerned about onroad driveability going 2.5" and then it seems that necessitates torsion bars. Maybe I'm reading things wrong, but it sounded like everyone agrees that the 1-1.5" lift doesn't mess up the front suspension geometry too much and switching to stiffer torsion bars seems to have mixed reviews for mall crawlers like mine. I'd like to go with 35's but that also sounds like a significantly more expensive prospect if you have to re-gear and seems to affect ride based on the needed mods a lot. Maybe I need to find a local 100 on 35's and beg for a ride

So how much of 100's in the hills could a 100 on 33's do?

 

[paflytyer]

You do not need to add torsion bars when you do a 2 - 2.5" lift. A torsion bar is just a "spring". You can crank or reindex the OEM ones. A stiffer torsion bar does not necessarily lift your truck higher, it all depends on how you index it when setting it up.

There is a thread on here that goes into detail about torsion bars. It's in the FAQ, penned by Gunny. Great read.

100s in the Hills can be done in a completely stock 100. Poughkeepsie Gulch is the only trail that isn't suitable for stock vehicles.

 

[lostih]

Sorry for not using search on the trails for 100's in the hills...spent the last 45 minutes drooling over that and getting on the waitlist

I couldn't figure out why stock TB's couldn't be used for the 2.5" lift re-indexed...seemed to me you just rotate them more. I also haven't been able to understand how re-indexing or cranking torsion bars affects the droop they have...since they are just a spring, it seems like re-indexing them would just change their at rest location and not affect their droop. It seems that would only be limited by shock or A arm travel...but I've read several threads where people are struggling with poor ride due to a lack of droop. Is that just because their shocks are now too short?

 

[wopalx]

AHC makes this a different conversation. You can't just crank up the t-bars. I believe Slee still sells the AHC override that keeps the truck up high. Someone else with AHC will have to chime in on how well that system held up a bumper and winch.

LX 470 owner here with AHC.

I installed an ARB Bar and Warn XP winch. To counter the additional weight I installed aftermarket torsion bars.

In the rear it would sit in LOW when fully loaded and towing a small boat (50kg tow ball weight). To fix that I installed standard LC rear springs as they have a higher rating than the LX springs, works fine and no more issues with it sitting in low.

One caveat - if I remove all my drawers, roof rack etc then the LC springs cause the rear end to be a little bouncy. Not really an issue for me as I leave most of that gear installed 95% of the time but worth mentioning.

 

[Traskew3]

Good Luck and keep Us Posted!!