Finishing a V8 install myself....need help.

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After seeing some novices take on much bigger projects with their 40s, I am resolved to finally finish the build of my 40. Mainly I need to figure out plumbing and wiring in the 5.7 350 TBI, install Saginaw power steering, then put the body back on, and last install the brake lines, master cyl and booster. There are a couple of great threads on this but search ain't cooperating.....I just want to get it DONE! I need some inspiration/tech support from Mud, and those posts!
 
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I have certainly been there myself... oh wait, I'm still there!!

I'm in the final stage of a vortec swap, paint and body overhaul, saginaw ps, lift, and the list never ends. What started as a simple v8 swap turned into a frame off resto. I cant complain, It will be a beautiful cruiser when it's done.

The v8 plumbing is fairly simple compared to the vacuum hose medusa of a smogged 2f.

Are you going back with stock master/ booster??

Here are a few recent pics of my year long project.

:beer::beer:
DSC_0020.webp
DSC_0179.webp
 
I am going to use the 80 series non ABS.
 
1.25 ton - SWEET you are trapped in land cruiser heaven!! Also i dig the stealth grey/black look!!

OK sorry back to the engine swap!
 
Sorry I couldnt link anything to help you out with the wiring but the steering and brakes are pretty stright forward just dive back into it and you'll be enjoying a drive in no time
 
Are you using an aftermarket wiring harness? I found it was well worth the time just to buy one vs trying to make something out of the stock gm harness.

How different is the 80 mc vs the stock 40? if the brake line output is the same you can make all of your steel lines from tube from napa.

Are you going to use an aftermarket steering box mount or make your own. We made a plate to box the frame and mount the box on mine. The hardest part of that operation was cutting a hole in the crossmember for the steering shaft to go through.


It's true, the hardest part of my adventure has been the little loose ends, gas tank filler, defrost vents, It's sad that after all the time and $$ I've thrown at this rig I bitch about having to buy a $40 windshield gasket....

After all, it could be worse, you could be working on a Ford.
 
The engine came with Painless harness attached. Bought the complete hi dollar Sag kit, mounting plates included. I will box the frame and need to pick up some plate for the passenger side. All original brake s*** is gone and good riddance. Calipers/discs front and rear await installation. No master or booster purchased yet. Custom steering arms and rods coming from 4X4 labs any day now. I also have the aluminum Be Cool to decide how to mount and have an electric fan/shroud combo plus the original fan the came with the 350.

I just need a starting point.
 
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I did the SBC route many many years ago on my 74, and it's going through my third motor, longevity is a issue with the Chevy so here are my tips:

Brakes: instead of going through the vacum booster I went streight to GM's Hydraboost/master cilinder combo. Since I got rear full floating I replaced the drums with front discs, and calipers and welded holding custom brackets to the rear end, also adjustable rear braking fluid valve, to reduce pressure since the front brake pads are way overkilling, it was a PITA until I got it right. Regrets: never replaced the transfer drum type parking brake with a disc brake kit when they were still available.

Steering: Saginaw power steering. Unfortunately I have a too tight and tiresome 3 1/2 turn ratio but will replace the box next month with a 4 1/2 turn ratio.

Cooling: custom made radiator, and after replacing GM fan clutch again and again, I did some mod and adapted a OEM new FZJ-80 fan clutch and Toyota FZJ-80 OEM 19" plastic fan, custom made shroud and overheat is over. On my experience nothing beats Toyota's fan clutch.

Air Condition: after several years throwed away OEM Harrison piston GM compressor and replaced with a 508 Sankei type and custom brackets were the OEM alternator came, it doesn't draw so much HP's like the GM OEM compressor. I use a flat pulley to avoid belt vibration on the long side.

Alternator: enough problems with several Delco's, and replaced it at all with a 80A Denso, custom made bracket and FZJ-80 dual V pulley, at the drivers side where the OEM air condition were installed before. I run same size dual belts between the alternator, GM hidraulic pump and crankshaft pulley following my 80 series design.

Springs: Ironman 2" lift kit to clear 16" FJ-80 OEM steel wheels.

Tires: All terrain Wrangler ATS 305-70/16

Winch: a trusty old Warn 8274 on a custom bullbar similar to the first TJM and ARB bullbars.

I still got in the F and R the original Dynatech worm and gear traction diferentials which later give birth to the Torsen diferentials.

Because my setup use the steel GM bellcase, 168 tooth flywheel, the GM 12" disc clutch and 3 leg pressure plate, I adapted from a FJ-60 the vacum clutch booster making it easy for the foot on trafic.

Thanks to my motor location (welded mounts), both front and rear drive shaft are of the same lenght. This is one of the first kits sold by Downey when they started their bussiness and of course it was the first V-8 mod made in my country, when nobody dreamed it was possible to replace the F motor. I did it on mine after less of 1000 miles so technically it was still on the manufacturer warranty LOL

I am now in the process of a body restauration and also adding a extra gas tank
 
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