Finished the Upholstery job

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Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Threads
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Location
The Palm Coast
If you followed the earlier thread, https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/255693-final-fix-drivers-seat-tear.html I installed a pair of Mastercraft Military Seats in the 60. That left teh rear seat looking pretty worn out and sad. I ordered matching Cordura an reupholstered the rear seat to match the Mastercrafts. Now I just have to bed-line the floor and I think the interior is nearly done.

Fronts
DSCF0001.jpg

Backs
NewBack.jpg

DSCF00041.jpg


Is there supposed to be a metal trim piece at the bottom of the seat back along the carpet-to-fabric edge? It needs one, but I never had it.
 
No, no trim at the bottom, the fold of the one piece rear carpet covers that area.
 
Nice job. How noisy is it in the cab driving around without carpet?
 
Now you jst have to match your door panels and such. Maybe some of those spiffy storage container side panels from wagon gear, and your interior will be set
 
I tlooks great. I wish seats like that were cheaper...
 
Nice job. How noisy is it in the cab driving around without carpet?
loud with 35" muds. Hot too, but not too bad this time of year.
 
No, no trim at the bottom, the fold of the one piece rear carpet covers that area.

See there you go Chris, I thought I was mistaken. As it appears I was correct. I'll still look for that extra top piece when I go home.
 
You might consider some thick rubber (cut to shape) over the bedliner. Akthough I still have the carpet, I was able to find a rubber pad for a pick up bed that I was able to cut to shape. I really like it and believe it dampens the sound well. I caught a close out of odds and ends sale at a local farm supply store and bought the pad for $20. They also sell rubber mats for putting in horse stalls that could be used.
 
How did you install that ammo can? Just remove the stock console and bolt it down?

-Carl
 
He gave info on the ammo can in his orginal thread, IIRC he bolted to the original mounts somehow, it's a 30 mm ammo can (don't want to get shot with that) and he welded one of the lid latches so it works as a hinge. His last seat thread kind of got overtaken by all of us drooling over the ammo can. He also modified it to lock and attached the factory cupholder
 
love those seats. they'd be a perfect match for my rattle can paint job. where did you order the cordura and how much was it.
 
love those seats. they'd be a perfect match for my rattle can paint job. where did you order the cordura and how much was it.

1000 Denier Cordura: Cordura Nylon 1000 Denier from www.ahh.biz

This is the Khaki color. @ $15/yard. Yards are 5 feet across the grain by 3 feet with the grain. It takes two yards to do the back seats if you are EXTRA careful. Cordura is easy to work with but there are a few tricks. One side (the back) is coated with a rubbery film which prevents water penetration. You can tell which side that is because it feels tacky. Since this stuff is very thin and tacky, you need to line it before using it as upholstery. That means making each pattern, then cutting it out of the cordura and also the liner, and stitching the two together. It takes more time, but it is necessary to prevent the cordura from just bunching up when you sit in the seat. The liner keeps the grippy part of the cordura from gripping the seat foam, which would cause internal wear. That's why sometimes when you take a seat skin off, there is a trash bag over the foam.
 
How did you install that ammo can? Just remove the stock console and bolt it down?

-Carl

Hey Carl, that is correct. IIRC the bolt pattern is 4 1/2 inches wide by 8 1/16, with a 4 inch offset from the front of the can-but I'd have to re-check. I used the stock console mounts because they are welded to the floor. BTW make sure that your holes are exact from left to right. There is no adjustment if they are wrong. If they are off from front to back, you can use a BFH to "adjust" the factory mounts a bit.

Chris
 

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