FInished 4 TRE and 5 shocks!!! Question?

[jditom]

All done and so much better (short drive). The shocks actually work and have rebound in them. So much smoother and controlled.

Took the old one out and when compressed they would not even expand back out.

I noticed that my steering wheel is not centered, off by one inch to the left but truck tracks straight. Did I do something wrong or is it time for an alingment?

Thanks for all your input

 

[PHAEDRUS]

if you replaced the tie rods, then you did not set up the length of the drag link (the one in front) that adjustment will control the steering wheel center on the veh. just tweak with it till its centered. The relay rod (behind the axle) controls the toe in and out and the front one controls the position of the steerig wheel.
Dave

 

[jditom]

if you replaced the tie rods, then you did not set up the length of the drag link (the one in front) that adjustment will control the steering wheel center on the veh. just tweak with it till its centered. The relay rod (behind the axle) controls the toe in and out and the front one controls the position of the steerig wheel.
Dave

I made sure that I did them one at a time and counted the treads to keep everything the same. Looks like I must be off a bit.

So loosten both sides of the drag link and turn it to center the steering wheel?

 

[firetruck41]

Make sure you get an alignment, I don't think counting threads on the TREs will be good enough, unfortunately, and you don't want to accelerate wear on your tires. Then you can adjust the drag link to get the steering wheel centered.

 

[jditom]

Here is a good link.
Will do it tonight then do an alingment when I drive it for a while.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=68117&highlight=drag+link

 

[firetruck41]

The problem with driving it for a while if it is misaligned, is every mile you drive could be like driving 10 miles (or more?) on your tires, depending how far it is off. Just a recommendation to get it done (or figure a way to DIY, I haven't tackled that DIY yet) sooner than later.

 

[jditom]

Good advise!

Thanks

The problem with driving it for a while if it is misaligned, is every mile you drive could be like driving 10 miles (or more?) on your tires, depending how far it is off. Just a recommendation to get it done (or figure a way to DIY, I haven't tackled that DIY yet) sooner than later.

 

[jditom]

Here is a good link.
Will do it tonight then do an alingment when I drive it for a while.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=68117&highlight=drag+link

Excellent link above. I turned my draglink a 1/4 turn then check then another 1/4 turn (1/2 turn total CW) and centered my steering wheel. The wheel needed to move CW about 1 inch. So ball park 1/2 turn CW relay rod = 1 inch CW steering wheel change.
Truck is getting alinged today!

 

[ElJefe]

Doing an allignment is easy. Jack it up JUST off the ground and run a band of masking tape or spray a stripe of water based paint around the center of the tire. Now spin the tire and lightly put the end of a screw/nail/fine tip marker against the ground and lightly drag the tip against the paint/tape. If done right the beginning and the end should line up and you have a fine line scribed all the way around the tire. Do both tires and then measure the distance between the lines in the front of the tires and the distance between the lines on the back side of the tires. dR-dF=toe-in, The difference between the two is you toe-in. I Don't remember what the spec is but should be in the FSM. The ONLY adjustment you can make on these things is toe in. Don't waste your money on a fancy-pants alligment when they are going to do exactly what I just described.

 

[Montana Cruiser]

All done and so much better (short drive). The shocks actually work and have rebound in them. So much smoother and controlled.

Took the old one out and when compressed they would not even expand back out.

I noticed that my steering wheel is not centered, off by one inch to the left but truck tracks straight. Did I do something wrong or is it time for an alingment?

Thanks for all your input

How big of a pain was it to replace everything? Did you use a puller or a pickle fork? I did the TRE's on my old 60 with a rented puller and that was a pain in the rear

 

[jditom]

How big of a pain was it to replace everything? Did you use a puller or a pickle fork? I did the TRE's on my old 60 with a rented puller and that was a pain in the rear

It is almost a joy if you use the tool that was recomended by Slee.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7315A.html

This tool is the best and worth every penny. Forget the pickle fork and BFH. Forget the pully type puller. I was almost laughing in the garage while poping these babies off!

 

[Montana Cruiser]

It is almost a joy if you use the tool that was recomended by Slee.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7315A.html

This tool is the best and worth every penny. Forget the pickle fork and BFH. Forget the pully type puller. I was almost laughing in the garage while poping these babies off!

Cool, I'll have to see if I can pick one of those up locally, otherwise I'll just order one. Thanks.

 

[firetruck41]

FYI, you can rent that same tool from Shucks for free (maybe a different brand, but same type tool). When you rent, you basically "buy" the rental tool/set, then recieve a full refund when you return it.

 

[Montana Cruiser]

FYI, you can rent that same tool from Shucks for free (maybe a different brand, but same type tool). When you rent, you basically "buy" the rental tool/set, then recieve a full refund when you return it.

I was thinking that one of the local Schucks, Kragen etc may rent them so thanks for the heads-up.

Time to get some Washington 80's together dont you think?