FINALLY GOT ONE!-questions(pics)

[spencertron]

That's right! I am the PROUD new owner of a 93' FJZ80 I looked for months for one, test drove about 6, and fell in love with this one.
the details:
-dark emerald pearl
-201k miles
-VERY clean (I mean this thing is immaculate)
-CARFAX says axle seals were done at 150k and no birf issues at all
-new 750 cold cranking amp battery
-drives like a dream
-275 michelines
-OME stock height suspension replacement
-ARB winch front (but no winch)
-Slee rear with tire carrier
-hi-lift jack

ok folks, here's where I need some advice (I'm pretty new to wheeling but I've got the bug big time). I know this is something that has been discussed a billion times on here since I've been researching it for months and months, but I still am not sure what to do. With the OME stock suspension I've gathered that you can get away with stuffing some 315's on the thing, even if it means occasional rubbing. BUT, I have the two heavy bumpers and I would like to eventually add sliders and skids. So my question is...do you think I could fit the 315's with this set up? (sorry for asking, I promise I searched).

I'm a full time student and I just got engaged, so money is tight. If I have to add spacers or different springs or bump stop extenders or brake lines or any expensive stuff that starts adding up, I'll just go to 285's. That being said, most threads I've read say something along the lines of "I did 285's and I wish I would have gone with 315's" and I don't want to make the same mistake
Any input would be really appreciated!

p.s. I plan on doing 90% street driving. The rest will mainly be trails in Utah County and the greater Orange County/LA area. No serious rock crawling until I have enough money to fix things .

Thanks in advance!

 

[aroscow]

Tidy!

 

[spencertron]

thanks i'm in love with this car

 

[js93cruiser]

That paint is clean! I miss my green 93

 

[specialk396]

Very nice truck. What did you pay? (If you don't mind...)

 

[green73]

If those tires have good tread, I would look into sliders and a maybe the Iron Pig skid plate before anything else. Those two pieces have saved me a ton of $ in damage as well as helping on the trail. As for tires I am running 305's. IMHO anything taller needs re-gearing.

Congrats on the rig. Good deal with having bumpers already!

 

[BrotherRob]

You have an active local community with a wealth of knowledge. Hook up with them and hit some trails before spending money. They will know what you need for your neck of the woods.

Remember, the most expensive mod is the one you didn't need.

 

[nicholas]

I agree with the above. We took the 93 to cruise moab this spring and ran poison spider, porcupine and hells without issue and all I did was add J springs/caster plates (which I regret) and the 315's off of the 97. Granted, those trails aren't too crazy, and I didn't come close to smashing a rocker panel.

IMO, 35's blow on a stock gear, non-supercharged truck. And after driving around with 285's on the S/C 97, I hated to swap the 315's back. Both trucks drive so much better with 285's. Sure the 315's look great and perform well offroad, but I'd much rather go back to 285's all around.

I'd stick with 285's and save your money. Since this is my wife's rig, I'd swap out the J's for the worn out stick springs and 285's if I didn't already dedicate the front axle to >3" of lift with the caster plates.

worn out 93 stock springs and 315's


J's and 35's


OME mediums with 1" mr g spacer, F/R bumpers + sliders and 315's

 

[arndog123]

Congrats. That's a really clean Cruiser you got there. x2 what BrotherRob said. I was set on 285's but went w/ 315's and not a month later I wish I would've gone bigger. It never ends.

 

[greentruck]

Nice color!


If you must have 315s, then you're going to have them. But once you go there, then it's gears or a SC or something else to make up the lost performance. If you're starting a new family, you might want to put that off for a few years.

If money is tight and you're going to be "commuting" between Cali and Utah in the meantime, I would advise going with 33" tires. The 80 is an incredibly capable vehicle, even when 'only' running 33s. You'll enjoy much better performance on the road and probably do just fine most places on the trail.

Oh, yeah, if you lose the running boards with the 33s, you'll more than makeup whatever you might have gained in breakover angle with the bigger tires.

Then there's the skinnies, which I favor...

 

[97FZJ80]

welcome

 

[Grizzly1]

Super nice looking Cruiser......someone else ask but I'm going to ask to out of curiosity.....what did you give for it in that nice of condition? (if you don't mind telling)

 

[CreeperSleeper]

If the tires you have on there are good, spend your money elsewhere at the moment. If it were me I would do sliders first, then a skid plate or belly-pan. When it's time for tires, run a nice 33x12.50 or 305 and enjoy the rig. You said that you are new to wheeling, so take it slow and find out what you need to change on the rig based on your wheeling style.

 

[Trapper50cal]

First thing to do (if you want to keep your flares) is remove the mudflaps...departing large rocks, you will land on a flap and potentially push your flare off. Second, lose the running boards and put on some sliders. At that point your rocker panels are protected and you can slowly add as desired.

Welcome! Nice rig!

 

[FJFOOL]

I agree with Trapper, and that's a great looking rig ! It really pays to wait for the one you want, enjoy !!

 

[spencertron]

thanks for all the input! i also forgot to mention the best part, 3x factory locked i payed 6,700 for it. that's way out of what my original price range was for a cruiser, but when i saw what good condition this one was in and that it drove nicer than my parents 05' suburban, i was completely willing to pay the extra cash. so it seems like sliders are the general consensus. i've been looking at them a lot ad have even contacted a couple local welders to see if they could make me some for cheap...no luck haha. i know that sliders and skids are more important than big cool tires haha, but these tires are just barely passing inspection, so i'm going to need new ones anyway.
looks like the 285s are going to be the way to go! i'm sure that those will be able to get me through my baja surf trips and the recreational trail trips in utah to some cool, secluded camp grounds.
i used to have an 87 samurai with 35s on it and came to the consensus that it was probably more tire than i realistically needed; but the longer wheel base on the cruiser made me think about doing 35s. thanks again for the responses, reading mud forums for the last few months has really impressed me at how helpful the cruiser community is to newbies.
merry Christmas!

 

[spencertron]

"First thing to do (if you want to keep your flares) is remove the mudflaps...departing large rocks, you will land on a flap and potentially push your flare off."
will it pass safety without the flares? or do you mean just remove them before wheeling?
thanks

 

[Kajun]

Welcome. Now ship me your spare wheel.

 

[tromz]

Sliders, Sliders , Sliders, then a skid plate. The long breakover angle need something to sit the darn thing on goin down . You can wheel the piss outta a stock setup. Your rig is already one up on me with suspension and a bumper! I swear by my Metal Techs.. They are way worth the coin . If you gotta fix the cats or exaust ., do it before installing them cause the cat skid is in the way and you gotta take it back off. Free modification ..loose all that rubber crap. ( flares, bumper ends , running boards etc.)Its all in the way!!

 

[Trapper50cal]

"First thing to do (if you want to keep your flares) is remove the mudflaps...departing large rocks, you will land on a flap and potentially push your flare off."
will it pass safety without the flares? or do you mean just remove them before wheeling?
thanks

Yeah, many on here have flareless 80's. Due mostly to damaging one and then just removing them all instead of trying to replace them (PITA) I, for one, like the way they look and plan on keeping them as long as possible, which means removing the mudflaps as they increase the risk of damaging them while wheeling. They hang low and are rigid enough to knock the flare off if they make contact with rocks that can push them upward. Going flareless entails (for most people wanting to make it look okay) removing all the flares then filling all the mounting tab holes then rhino-lining or otherwise adding "bedliner" to the area where the flares were. Time consuming to do well.