Field replacment of a birfield

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Anyone done a writeup of the "field replacment of a birfield" or something similar ?

Looking to find out how I'll need to go about replacing a birfield on the trail when I grenade one. (obviously the same as in a driveway) Maybe a writeup of 30 spline installation ?
 
Anyone done a writeup of the "field replacment of a birfield" or something similar ?

Looking to find out how I'll need to go about replacing a birfield on the trail when I grenade one. (obviously the same as in a driveway) Maybe a writeup of 30 spline installation ?

Can't see anyone driving into the woods and tearing down their junk for a write up.... but here is a person doing it in a shop. ;)

Toyota 4WD Front-end Maintenance - Solid Axle - ORN
 
The down and dirty version....

loosen caliper bolts
loosen trunion bearing cap and knuckle
remove dust cover screws on back of knuckle
remove caliper and hang it
remove speedo sensor
remove end dust cap and snap ring
remove trunion bearing cap and steering arm (watch out for the bearings)
pull the entire knuckle assembly off
pull the axle
time to get dirty

Buck
 
What are the chances of pulling a drive flange on the blown side freewheel if one explodes ? I suppose that would be very dangerous because parts could bind up and prevent from being able to turn. Im thinking just to nurse it down off a trail so you could tow it or work on it there.

My 80 is on 315's with a V8 just trying to prepare myself for the unthinkable.
 
For me, it would be dictated by the circumstances. If unable to make field repairs, limp to where you can. If field repairs can be made safely so no further damage is done, time to get dirty.

Buck
 
Wouldn't the Slee part time kit be a better solution? At least you could safely limp...
 
The down and dirty version....

loosen caliper bolts
loosen trunion bearing cap and knuckle
remove dust cover screws on back of knuckle
remove caliper and hang it
remove speedo sensor
remove end dust cap and snap ring
remove trunion bearing cap and steering arm (watch out for the bearings)
pull the entire knuckle assembly off
pull the axle
time to get dirty

Buck

For a birfield replacement you dont need to remove the knuckle, just get down to removing the spindle. Also dont forget to remove the abs sensor as that will both block the birf from removal, as well as be expensive to replace if you break it.

I've seen the birf quickly replaced on a toyota at little sluice. The guy had the broken one out in around 10 minutes - obviously he's done it a lot ;)
 
I somewhat did this last year. Blew a birfield at a small off road park. I crawled under and pulled the front drive shaft, took off the drive flanges and locked the center diff with the switch.

Drove it about 10 miles to a relative's house where I tore it down in the driveway to get the broken pieces out (a little piece of metal was between the knuckle and housing preventing the wheels from turning right). Put it all back together and drove 2 1/2 hours home. No big deal, just carry all the right tools in your tool kit.
 
1. "inside out". Unbolting the steering arms/trunnion bearings and dust cover and removing the entire knuckle would save you the hassle of dealing with wheel bearings and spindle bolts.

2. "outside in". Removing the wheel and spindle in order to access the birfield would keep you from messing with steering arms and trunnion bearings and dust covers.

Both methods still require removing drive flanges and calipers and abs sensors.
I think it is a wash between which method is faster.

3.removing just the drive flanges and drive shaft would be easiest but I would not trust that broken bits wouldn't cause any steering bind. Another negative is that I would not be able use 3 wheel drive since I have front locker.
 
If you want to upgrade your brakes to Tacoma Calipers/rotors and push your stance out a bit then doing this will make it a snap to change the birfs and not have to deal with bearings.

FROR Tacoma Brake Kit

Then you would:

remove locking hub face
remove snap ring from spline
unbolt 8 spindle bolts
remove spindle (still attached to hub, locker housing, bearing, etc) all as a single unit.

Then you just pull out the birf......
 
If you want to upgrade your brakes to Tacoma Calipers/rotors and push your stance out a bit then doing this will make it a snap to change the birfs and not have to deal with bearings.

FROR Tacoma Brake Kit

Then you would:

remove locking hub face
remove snap ring from spline
unbolt 8 spindle bolts
remove spindle (still attached to hub, locker housing, bearing, etc) all as a single unit.

Then you just pull out the birf......
I believe that kit would be for a mini truck axle rather than a cruiser axle. Not sure all the parts would bolt up to an 80 series axle.
 
Wouldn't the Slee part time kit be a better solution? At least you could safely limp...


Awesome. An @ $700 safety feature so you can limp home...


I'd rather buy a CDL switch and just remove a shaft...

A, meaning front or rear...
 
I believe that kit would be for a mini truck axle rather than a cruiser axle. Not sure all the parts would bolt up to an 80 series axle.


Another key is a floating rotor... The Tacoma is 2.77" and rides outside the hub between the rim and WMS...

If you guys can find a rotor, or a way to do that (machine down the hub at 2 places) then you can do that...


goofball forgot the caliper part... 2 caliper bolts, then the rotor, and you're basically home free...

Oh, and say goodbye to expensive replacing the rotor and if it's cheaper to buy a rotor than turn them...

Just pull your caliper and slap a new one on there...
 
Last edited:
Another key is a floating rotor... The Tacoma is 2.77" and rides outside the hub between the rim and WMS...

If you guys can find a rotor, or a way to do that (machine down the hub at 2 places) then you can do that...


goofball forgot the caliper part... 2 caliper bolts, then the rotor, and you're basically home free...

Oh, and say goodbye to expensive replacing the rotor and if it's cheaper to buy a rotor than turn them...

Just pull your caliper and slap a new one on there...

Hell i also forgot to jack it up and pull the tire. :rolleyes:

Figured that stuff would be understood.... but yes, i had forgotten to mention it. :p
 
For a birfield replacement you dont need to remove the knuckle, just get down to removing the spindle. Also dont forget to remove the abs sensor as that will both block the birf from removal, as well as be expensive to replace if you break it.

I've seen the birf quickly replaced on a toyota at little sluice. The guy had the broken one out in around 10 minutes - obviously he's done it a lot ;)

Correct. In my statement I said speedo sensor but it is the abs sensor.

Whichever way you do it really doesn't matter as long as you can stay out of the bearings, you'll save a tremendous amount of time.

Buck
 
For a birfield replacement you dont need to remove the knuckle, just get down to removing the spindle. Also dont forget to remove the abs sensor as that will both block the birf from removal, as well as be expensive to replace if you break it.

I've seen the birf quickly replaced on a toyota at little sluice. The guy had the broken one out in around 10 minutes - obviously he's done it a lot ;)


If I'm reading you right, you can do the same thing for a Hilux too. But then the issue of contaminating the spindle axle grease and toting or even finding the 54mm socket comes into play...
 
Hell i also forgot to jack it up and pull the tire. :rolleyes:

Figured that stuff would be understood.... but yes, i had forgotten to mention it. :p


It's as if I heard a hush over the 80's tech crowd, "huh? floating rotor? What's that?"

So I kinda wanted to go into more detail :grinpimp:
 
I took mine out by popping off the spindle. Kinda a pain to deal with the wheel bearings but the grease was still good and plentiful. Carrying a little extra grease wouldnt be a big deal either. The 54mm socket isnt that bad to carry. I keep it and a spring guage for wheel bearing tension in a backup tool kit. I think I had all of it apart and back together in about 2 hours. That was only my second time in the front axle. Now I could have it pulled and back on the road in under an hour.
 
Did mine on the Rubicon last year. Having a spare birfield in the group prepacked with grease is a big help, as is having a handful of people with experience doing front axles. We were on record breaking time till we discovered the splines on the inner axle were mangled a bit. Took extra time finding the file and doing the fix to get the new birf on. Having a good spill kit is essential to doing trail repairs without leaving any sign of it. Having the spare parts to finish the job on the trail means not having to be strapped up Cadillac Hill in two wheel drive.
 

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