Few issues on new to me 2013 LX. Loose hose. Grease. Headlamp washer leak.

[Oogabooga]

Hi everyone, new here. Just purchased a 2013 LX 570 with 98k miles. I was looking at 2011s so I paid more than I wanted to, but I do love the thing especially with the adaptive cruise and digital speedo (didn't even realize the 2013 had it, thought it was 2014+, only noticed on the drive home with it, pleasant surprise)

I tried my best to see as much as I could before buying it, tested the AHC and got under it and was really mostly looking for rust. Thankfully it seems legitimiately 100% spotless in terms of rust, not even a spot of surface rust as far as I can tell. Carfax showed it as being owned in very very south Texas its whole life until coming up here to the PNW a couple months ago. It also had plenty of Toyota dealer services done throughout its life, which brings me to my surprise after I got it home and really started digging a bit deeper and started noticing quite a number of what ill call "oversights". Thankfully so far it doesnt seem like anything major that I can't fix myself. I added photographs as best as I could to show what im working with. Seems like the forum has a 5 image limit so I provided and Imgur link.



To begin, there is a mysterious hose that is not connected, located roughly above the driver side axle. It appears the rubber hose should connect to the metal tubing, but it does not. I can't figure out where the hose goes, but if you follow the metal tubing it eventually terminates into the upper wheel well, where another tube is connected but then just ends about a foot later with a wobbly metal tip on it. Any clue?

Secondly, there was quite a substantial amount of grease located on and all over around the front passenger side CV Axle boot. I cleaned it up the best I could with a whole lot of degrease and shop towels, so the picture looks somewhat decent, but it was quite bad and just a gunky mess all over the area. However I cannot seem to find any evidence of a tear or leak in the boot, I drove a bit earlier after cleaning it to see if it would leak more but I dont see anything new. I'm not sure how to tell if there is still enough grease inside the boot or not, but when comparing how it "feels" when pressed on with my hand in comparision to the driver side (which looks totally clean), they both feel about the same. I also don't hear or feel any werid rattling or odd noises when driving. Maybe it was replaced before and they never bothered to clean it up?

Thirdly, I took it home with the "Low wiper fluid" warning on, thinking you know, it just needed fluid. Well turns out it needed fluid because the connection from the tubing to the driver side headlamp washer assembly was steadily leaking fluid after i topped it off. It seems like someone attempted to seal it with what appears to be electrical tape? Dunno. Well after digging into it, it seems it is missing the washer hose joint (Part # 85279-33050, please correct me if im wrong since there appears to be several simmilar parts), so for the time being i just disconnected the hose and zip tie "clamped" it. Hopefully that part works.

Fourthly, kinda in general it seems like whoever worked on it, which from the service history makes me think it was the toyota dealer, just seemed to do a really half @ss'ed job on a lot of panels and brackets and such. The engine bay panels are missing all the clips except for one per panel (easy fix i already got replacements). And the unbody and grille and fender components are all missing weird assortments of bolts/screws/clips, so a handful of albeit superficial components are just kinda hanging loose and dangling around. It feels weird to walk up to a $100k + vehicle (new of course) and have to love tap the grille and panels back into place. Also, it appears to just be straight up missing the front underbody skid plates/panels, the middle one is attached but just kinda half dangling since it seems like its supposed to attach to the front ones that are missing.

I hope i didn't get suckered into the seemlingly good service history and lack of rust and end up with a problem child. But so far it at least seems these are easy/cheapish fixes and otherwise it is mechnically sound. Also the interior is in great shape and everything seems to work. Overall I still absolutely love the 200 series and have planning to get one for many years, it really is an amazing vehicle. Any help with these "quirks" are appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

[Oogabooga]

When I click my own Imgur links it only loads one photo. So incase that is the case for anyone else ill make some replies with the photos. If there is a better way please let me know.

 

[Oogabooga]

Rest of photos

 

[TLC2013]

Mystery hose is actually the front Differential breather. It is in its factory location. No need to do anything with it. You could extend it up to where the other breathers are grouped together at the firewall but not necessary.

 

[Oogabooga]

Mystery hose is actually the front Differential breather. It is in its factory location. No need to do anything with it. You could extend it up to where the other breathers are grouped together at the firewall but not necessary.

Ah ok, well great then. It seemed really strange but I’m glad that’s actually how it should be. Thank you for that insight.

 

[TeCKis300]

It sounds like the front end has been disassembled and put back together without attention to detail. I can only imagine it was in a front end fender bender, considering the parts that are affected. They are not normal maintenance things. You're also missing the inner wheel well side covers.

Fortunately most things in the front end bolt on. Just the missing pieces and give it some TLC.

 

[doru]

Here info about the skid's bolts Stock skid plate / splash guard bolt locations & part numbers - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stock-skid-plate-splash-guard-bolt-locations-part-numbers.1289344/
Not expensive to buy.
As for the skids themselves watch classifieds or post a WTB as many are replacing them w/ aftermarket real skids. Or just get an aftermarket set.
The grease looks like a boot replacement.
Based on the labels on the plastic wheel well cover (there are no such labels on the factory installed parts) it might have suffered a mishap and when they replaced, they did a half assed job. Is there any evidence of re-painting of the fenders/front bumper? That might explain all the missing clips, bolts, washer, new plastic cover, unclipped harnesses. Some people chose not to go through insurance when having a fender bender so it might not show in CarFax.

Go over it with a "small brush" and find out and fix all the stuff so you have peace of mind.

And ... don't forget to keep an eye on the radiator for the inevitable crack. Search the forum for plenty of info. If you like to wrench yourself, it is a good idea to order the radiator and parts to have in stock and replace at your convenience. It will eventually blow up unless it was already replaced.

Enjoy your new ride!

 

[bloc]

I don’t believe mystery hose is supposed to be inside the wheel well though, it’s normally retained in the engine bay. And I agree with Teckis, someone had the front bumper skin (at least) off and did a poor job of putting things back.

Some of those little clips and brackets will br a challenge to get back in place without another LX to compare to, but overall it’s not much work

Congrats on the otherwise clean ride

 

[Oogabooga]

Here info about the skid's bolts Stock skid plate / splash guard bolt locations & part numbers - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stock-skid-plate-splash-guard-bolt-locations-part-numbers.1289344/
Not expensive to buy.
As for the skids themselves watch classifieds or post a WTB as many are replacing them w/ aftermarket real skids. Or just get an aftermarket set.
The grease looks like a boot replacement.
Based on the labels on the plastic wheel well cover (there are no such labels on the factory installed parts) it might have suffered a mishap and when they replaced, they did a half assed job. Is there any evidence of re-painting of the fenders/front bumper? That might explain all the missing clips, bolts, washer, new plastic cover, unclipped harnesses. Some people chose not to go through insurance when having a fender bender so it might not show in CarFax.

Go over it with a "small brush" and find out and fix all the stuff so you have peace of mind.

And ... don't forget to keep an eye on the radiator for the inevitable crack. Search the forum for plenty of info. If you like to wrench yourself, it is a good idea to order the radiator and parts to have in stock and replace at your convenience. It will eventually blow up unless it was already replaced.

Enjoy your new ride!

Thank you for the skid and bolt links. I was kind of thinking the same thing on whether to bother finding and replacing stock ones or just go aftermarket. Aftermarket ones are kinda pricey so I’m not ready to bite the bullet just yet. Assuming I’m not doing any real off-roading or anything yet more than just a dirt road, is it probably fine to just not have the other skid plates for the time being?

The Carfax does actually show a fender bender quite a few years ago but it was apparently only on the front left, not the right side where I would say most of the missing hardware and such is. Unless they just had to remove the whole bumper and stuff anyways so maybe it affected both sides. As far as painting goes I can’t tell any difference in the paint color/tone anywhere on the vehicle.

After I made this post, this morning I checked again and I think I see some fresh grease seeping out of the boot where the metal clamp is. It’s barely anything but should there be any at all? Considering just ordering a replacement the CV axle since they don’t seem all that expensive. Would you go stock or aftermarket on a part like that? I see ones on rock auto for around $100 on the more “premium” side of their lineup, but stock looks to be $250 ish.

Noted on the radiator, heard about this and will look into it further and probably do as you said and get the replacement just ready to go. I don’t think it was replaced according to anything I see on carfax, and unfortunately I don’t have any copies of the service history.

Overall I agree it seems like just minor clips and bolts, more of an annoyance than anything so I’m sure I’ll get it all squared away.

 

[Oogabooga]

It sounds like the front end has been disassembled and put back together without attention to detail. I can only imagine it was in a front end fender bender, considering the parts that are affected. They are not normal maintenance things. You're also missing the inner wheel well side covers.

Fortunately most things in the front end bolt on. Just the missing pieces and give it some TLC.

I removed a small cover to show the “mystery” hose coming out. Is that what you mean by the inner wheel well side cover? Or is there something else larger I’m missing too. The thing I removed was relatively small maybe a foot across with 5 clips on it just covering up that small area where all the hoses and lines are in the photo.

 

[Oogabooga]

I don’t believe mystery hose is supposed to be inside the wheel well though, it’s normally retained in the engine bay. And I agree with Teckis, someone had the front bumper skin (at least) off and did a poor job of putting things back.

Some of those little clips and brackets will br a challenge to get back in place without another LX to compare to, but overall it’s not much work

Congrats on the otherwise clean ride

I think the way I wrote my original post was confusing. The mystery hose actually wasn’t in the wheel well itself but rather with the other hoses and lines in the photo just behind a little plastic cover accessed in the wheel well. Or is that still not the right location? As of right now that hose is literally doing nothing anyways since it’s not even connected to the other metal line further up, which according to another reply is where the diff breather is, I guess that extra line and hose is just to extend it?

Thank you, I’m glad it’s overall pretty solid and rides great. I can fix the stupid little things no problem.

 

[bloc]

Absolutely do not run aftermarket CVs. Total trash.

 

[doru]

I'm the guy that always tries to run OEM parts unless there is a documented, sound reason to use aftermarket. In general Toyota is pretty good at design, test and fabrication, and the parts are reasonable priced (if ordered from the internet instead of your local Seattle/Bellevue Lexus dealer). Sometimes the local dealer may have a very reasonable price as it was the case with my rear glass, but that is usually the exception.
Also compare prices on both Lexus and Toyota sites. The assumption that Lexus parts are more expensive is not always true.

Re: running w/o skid/covers ... the factory provided are more of a cover than a skid plate. I like to have them on as it protects the engine, etc from the elements, especially since WADOT started using some salty stuff in the winter. That's the reason I reinstalled the engine shield on my Outback after running many years w/o.

 

[bloc]

Stock shields will also help mileage and reduce wind noise

 

[Sandroad]

I think the way I wrote my original post was confusing. The mystery hose actually wasn’t in the wheel well itself but rather with the other hoses and lines in the photo just behind a little plastic cover accessed in the wheel well. Or is that still not the right location? As of right now that hose is literally doing nothing anyways since it’s not even connected to the other metal line further up, which according to another reply is where the diff breather is, I guess that extra line and hose is just to extend it?

Thank you, I’m glad it’s overall pretty solid and rides great. I can fix the stupid little things no problem.

So, just to double check, is the breather pipe/hose connected all the way from the differential to the end with the floppy metal cap on it. That will keep water/dirt out of the differential oil. If that has been disconnected for an unknown length of time, I would add a differential oil change to the maintenance list.

 

[Oogabooga]

I'm the guy that always tries to run OEM parts unless there is a documented, sound reason to use aftermarket. In general Toyota is pretty good at design, test and fabrication, and the parts are reasonable priced (if ordered from the internet instead of your local Seattle/Bellevue Lexus dealer). Sometimes the local dealer may have a very reasonable price as it was the case with my rear glass, but that is usually the exception.
Also compare prices on both Lexus and Toyota sites. The assumption that Lexus parts are more expensive is not always true.

Re: running w/o skid/covers ... the factory provided are more of a cover than a skid plate. I like to have them on as it protects the engine, etc from the elements, especially since WADOT started using some salty stuff in the winter. That's the reason I reinstalled the engine shield on my Outback after running many years w/o.

Interesting, thank you for the heads up. Yeah I found the Toyota CV axle for $15 less so that’s something, haven’t even tried to ask a dealer tbh but maybe I should since the car also didn’t come with the locking lug nut key so I can’t even get my wheels off so it sounds like I need to go to a dealer anyways.

Good to know about the salt, I just moved here from NC so that’s new to me. I guess I’ll put it on my priority list before the winter time rolls around.

 

[TLC2013]

So, just to double check, is the breather pipe/hose connected all the way from the differential to the end with the floppy metal cap on it. That will keep water/dirt out of the differential oil. If that has been disconnected for an unknown length of time, I would add a differential oil change to the maintenance list.

Yep it's connected to the front diff and ends where it's shown with the metal cap in the image. Interesting spot to end it but with the metal cap it prevents water from entering. A few other breathers end at the back of the firewall. I figured all (other then rear diff) terminated there but after installing new gears and front differential i discovered this and may wind up extending it to the firewall at some point in the future.

 

[Oogabooga]

So, just to double check, is the breather pipe/hose connected all the way from the differential to the end with the floppy metal cap on it. That will keep water/dirt out of the differential oil. If that has been disconnected for an unknown length of time, I would add a differential oil change to the maintenance list.

I have not actually traced the metal pipe above the axle to the diff, but assuming that is the breather pipe, then it disconnected from the the other “extension hose” as I’ll call it. So that extension hose that goes near the wheel well behind the plastic cover but is not actually connected to the breather pipe so it’s essentially doing doing.

I can certainly connect it if it’s ideal, but the diff fluid was changed about 23k mi / 3 years ago if it makes any difference. If you think it’s still needed I can get that done or do it myself if it’s not too hard.

 

[TLC2013]

Excellent video and instructions provided by @MScruiser on the diff fluid changes. With your skid plates already off (or missing) it will be an easier job.

My Videos: Changing the oil in the front/rear diffs and transfer case

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[doru]

Re locks... they are made by Mcguard from NY. Contact them tomorrow (by phone) and they will guide you how to identify the lock code. Then you can buy the key. They may ask for proof that you own the truck, don't remember now.
This is what I done, and have 2 one in the truck and one in my sockets drawer at home.