Feeler: custom battery/power cables

[619TOY]

Don't know if this is the right place to post, but I can make custom battery/power cables for just about any application.

I use the highest quality supplies: USA made, color coded welding cable, sealed end ring terminals in most common sizes, vinyl tube loom, flex loom and normal or high temp split loom, single, double or triple wall heat shrink.

You get the idea. Just checking to see if there is interest. Here are a pic or two of my wiring:

 

[NLXTACY]

Hey Steve, I would use your services in a heart beat if you had a mobile service and you can make cables for me on the fly while I working on the truck. The problem I see is that, and you can see from my own electrical installations, everything is so tight that a lot of times you can't approximate wire because you will have no place to stuff the excess if there is too much. Assuming of course you want a clean install.

See I would love to use you to make my jumper cable thing for the rear of my LX and also for my 60 but its one of those things that I want a clean install look without having extra loops to hide. I have the rack wiring, the solar power wiring, etc etc I still need to do.

BUT saying that I think there are a LOT of people here that are nervous about electrical and would like a one stop shop to get the cables they need and the length they need it and you are there to help guide the specs.

 

[PabloVTA]

i'm interested....i'll be buggin you when i buy my winch, and need my 2M stuffed in back still, and want a new sub also, and still piecing together a painless dual batt setup.

you work for tri tip and Guiness right?

That winch connection is a piece of art. I might want to steal your drawer plans too. need a place for my fridge connection also.

 

[619TOY]

Yeah, I can see how calculating the correct length of a cable run could be just as big a gamble as attempting the project yourself. I was just throwing it out there to see.

The best method of determining wire lengths is to run a small wire along the exact path and then measuring it. That's what I have my techs do first when they are using/making high dollar cables.

Anyone that has tracked my sales related posts will probably agree that I'm not really out to make money as much as to share the things that are available to me. I don't really have the time to get too involved in money making projects, so I just offer up the simplest things. Now when I buy a new house and have a new mortgage, that might all change.

Pre-made dual battery setup???

 

[landtank]

What would be the turn around time? I have a project coming up and would like to use you.

For length I'll be running some rope of similar dimension. What would you like for determining the length? Eye to eye?

 

[619TOY]

Turn around time would depend on the size of the job. I would think that 2-3 days would be about right for most jobs. Obviously, I could get simple cables done within a day.

I have daily UPS pickup, so that won't be a problem.

I would measure from center to center on the ring terminals or inner edge of stud to inner edge of stud which is basically going to be within 1/2" of the first measurement method.

I am working on a spreadsheet to calculate pricing. I would like to be very competitive in my pricing without being a charity. Like I said, just feeling the water's right now.

 

[landtank]

OK, I'm starting a dual battery install right now and would very much like to use you for my cables. It will be a week or so for me to gett the lengths measured so I'll PM you then to see what you think.

 

[thisilldefend]

Your wiring looks so perfect. I wish I could drive my baby down to you and have you work on it. I am a perfectionist and I dont know squat about wires.
I plan on so many accesories I dont know how I will ever do it. I plan on 9 lights and a rear view camera on the roofrack alone....San diego is my old stomping grounds. I would buy all the beer if you are willing...... I am intrested in anything you make but I dont even have a good plan yet.

 

[informationjunky]

OK, I'm starting a dual battery install right now and would very much like to use you for my cables. It will be a week or so for me to gett the lengths measured so I'll PM you then to see what you think.

PM a price on the cables for a dual batt... I'm guessing what lengths Rick comes up with would probably work for me.

 

[619TOY]

I have been considering a dual battery setup for years myself but I don't really need one. I get by on using my head as far as current consumption while camping. If I had a fridge, inverter and lights, it would be a no brainer. My most current project is a master switch for all of my dome lights so I dont have to pull the fuse and then reset the clock later.

The thing about dual battery setups is that there are alot of options and each individual needs to weigh the positives and negatives of all of those options and decide what is the best choice.

The biggest determining factors are ease of use, current demands, overall flexibility and the ever present "what if's"

My personal favorite is the voltage sensing solenoid method: Batteries are automatically paralleled when the engine is running or when you flip a switch. Not a complete no brainer but will give most people what they are looking for. Developing a premade setup around a Sure Power 1315-200 and the factory parts that CDan can get you would be pretty simple. For most applications, I would recommend 4 gauge battery cable, sealed ring terminals and split loom with double wall heat shrink. That's the most cost effective, high quality method. You can choose more expensive components but that's the point at which you start running into diminishing returns. For instance, the flex loom in my pic is about $1.00 a foot. Split loom, almost free.

Looking forward to hearing everyones plans.

 

[landtank]

the setup I'm installing isn't for winch support so we won't be paralleling the basteries. I'll be using a power gate and the main battery will be only for the vehicle and the second one will be for all the accessories. Not your typical setup.

 

[619TOY]

I've seen solid state relay/solenoids like that before but have never used one. From what I recall, they are pretty pricey. Other than being solid state, are there any other functional differences between that unit and a traditional solenoid?

 

[thisilldefend]

If you come up with a good dual battery setup I will be in.
I will be running a Warn 12.0 winch. 2 hellas on the bull bar. 6 hellas on the roofrack and 2 golights. The interior stuff will be CB and CB amp, power inverter, lowrance gps in addition to the pioneer avic f700bt kenwood ksc-sw10. rear view camera. Leds under the technitop awning. Eventually a fridge in the rear. I will be putting in a factory 91-92 battery tray and the Slee waterbottle relocation kit. I need room for on-board air and hot shower kit. And I am stealing an airhorn of of one of my blown up MRAPS.
I just need a good dual battery setup that will support all my add -ons. And I cant stand split loom it looks cheap. I had it on my jeep. Flex Loom!!!!!!!

 

[landtank]

I've seen solid state relay/solenoids like that before but have never used one. From what I recall, they are pretty pricey. Other than being solid state, are there any other functional differences between that unit and a traditional solenoid?

I'm just installing it so I don't have an in depth understanding. But as far as I understand this will provide a completely separate aux system. At no time will the batteries be connected with the exception of a "jump" relay.

Having the batteries automatically connect at start up can be detrimental to the batteries. If one of the batteries has discharged some since the last time you started the truck when the two batteries get linked there is a rush of current between the two. This situation is avoided with this set up.

I'm sure there is more differences but that's all I got right now.

 

[619TOY]

I found a little time to do some more reading. It is the equivilant of an isolator, not a solenoid. They appear to have overcome one of the biggest disadvantages of isolators, the voltage drop.

Traditional isolators are merely giant diode packs and since diodes cause voltage drop, they are actually a circuit themselves, robbing the batteries of some of the voltage created by the alternator. Another disadvantage of diodes in general is that they seem to run extremely hot and fail when run at thier rated capacity for extended periods of time. This true from small diodes on up through isolators.

It sounds like you know that they will not allow you to "self jump start" your rig in the event of a dead main battery. You will need to use jumper cables, a small jumper you could place between the contacts of the power gate or a paralleling solenoid.

It actually looks like a pretty good alternative to the more traditional methods. Like I said, dual battery setups should be designed around the needs of the individual. There is no one "perfect setup".

 

[landtank]

Yes, we will have a solenoid that can be triggered from within the cab for self jumping the truck.