1985 FJ60 with 217,234 miles. Rebuilt engine & carb, all emissions was working when it passed 5,000 miles and 6 years ago.
New 5 speed, 33" tires. Passing test results in 2018 @ 212,189 miles: HC 1.1057, CO 9.5632, Nox 1.6973 CO2 752.7458
1st failed test results 217,180 miles:
HC: 1.7525 limit 4.0000 PASS
CO: 75.4628 limit 45.0000 FAIL
Nox: 1.0542 limit 5.0000 PASS
CO2: 692.3288
2nd failed test results 217,234 miles
HC: 1.3628
CO: 52.0268 limit 45.0000 FAIL
Nox: 1.3015
CO2: 678.2393
The test results are getting closer to passing. I don't want to get a carb compliant cat as they start around $1,000 and I just put one on 5,000 miles ago, so I want to try other things. I really want to do one thing at a time, but I only have one free test. Both tests done after highway speeds and engine fully warmed up. No accessories on.
Miles: 217,180 - engine rebuilt at around 200,000 miles, carb rebuilt and leaned out before testing, using lean drop method. Leaned 1/4 turn more after 1st failure
Dizzy set to static 7 degrees BTDC, HAC working, pulls to ~14 degrees BTDC, vacuum advance working, no changes made after 1st failure
Changes after 1st failed test:
New 5 speed, 33" tires. Passing test results in 2018 @ 212,189 miles: HC 1.1057, CO 9.5632, Nox 1.6973 CO2 752.7458
1st failed test results 217,180 miles:
HC: 1.7525 limit 4.0000 PASS
CO: 75.4628 limit 45.0000 FAIL
Nox: 1.0542 limit 5.0000 PASS
CO2: 692.3288
2nd failed test results 217,234 miles
HC: 1.3628
CO: 52.0268 limit 45.0000 FAIL
Nox: 1.3015
CO2: 678.2393
The test results are getting closer to passing. I don't want to get a carb compliant cat as they start around $1,000 and I just put one on 5,000 miles ago, so I want to try other things. I really want to do one thing at a time, but I only have one free test. Both tests done after highway speeds and engine fully warmed up. No accessories on.
- Question, is it better to have good oxygen from the smog pump go to the exhaust-j pipe, or to the air rail (it can't be setup to go to both, only one or the other). I have good air flow especially at higher rpms. I have the oxygen going into the exhaust j-pipe thinking that would be best, but I could plug the ABV port causing the air to go into the air rail instead. Is this better?
- Question, does retarding the dizzy, or even removing the vacuum that the HAC is supplying helpful? Last time I tested when it passed, my HAC diaphragm was bad so the dizzy was what it was without the high altitude adjustment. I may have had it slightly advanced by rotation of the dizzy but not nearly as much as it is now. It may have been closer to 7 or 9 deg BTDC but I really don't remember
Miles: 217,180 - engine rebuilt at around 200,000 miles, carb rebuilt and leaned out before testing, using lean drop method. Leaned 1/4 turn more after 1st failure
Dizzy set to static 7 degrees BTDC, HAC working, pulls to ~14 degrees BTDC, vacuum advance working, no changes made after 1st failure
Changes after 1st failed test:
- leaned out another 1/4 turn clockwise, using lean drop method plus 1/4 turn. Have AFR meter reading 15.1-15.3 when idling and cruising highway speeds it might drop to 14.7, and cruising at 45 mph AFR reading 13.1-13.5
- Air Injection VTV port F broke off while I was testing for air going into the air rail, so I left ABV vented; meaning AI sending oxygen directly to exhaust j-pipe, check valves new when engine rebuilt
- Added 6 gallons of 91 octane to near empty tank
- smaller main jet
- change air filter
- change oil
- change spark plugs
- retard dizzy
- put smaller tires on it and inflate to 40 psi
- no E-85 added, no heat added
- cat 5,000 miles old, didn't replace
- adjust valves
- check pcv
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