Failed Door Lock Actuator R&R (1 Viewer)

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@ayaws - your instructions were great. I did not check the tongue and groove part of the window rail step, but the window goes up and down just fine. I had to wrestle the lower part and push up to get the holes (door and rail) to line up enough to thread the bolt. Hopefully that's enough of an indication that its hooked up right. I would rather not pull the door panel again to check. (See rant below)

You mentioned the outside handle rod, but its worth mentioning that its a blind operation. The rod just inserts into a cup/hole on the actuator but it requires patience and several tries. Just learn by feel where the hole is before putting the actuator in the door.

Also, had to pull the lock cylinder to seat the key lock in the actuator. Its not a big deal... remove the rubber cover on the jam and loosen the torx screw holding the cylinder in. I wasnt able to get the actuator to line up right until I pulled the lock cylinder.

If you're going to replace your actuator, once you get everything back together, and BEFORE you put the door panel back on, test everything. Buttons, fobs, door handle inside and out, lock button, lock lever. Dont forget the emergency key as well.

Whole process wasnt too bad. Very similar to my 99 Lexus GS400 . I SHOULD have been done in little over an hour, taking my time and keeping things organized. BUT DAMNIT DAMNIT DAMNIT!!!!!

I was very careful, or so I thought, to put the screws, trim pieces and clips in a safe place. But while I was putting the inside door panel back on, one of the white plastic press fit connectors popped off. It ricocheted around the interior and blasted the carefully placed trim pieces, clips and screws around the cabin and out the door and into the garage. Of the three screws that hold the door panel on, I was only able to find two. Rather than use my normal method of finding screws using my tires, I searched for almost an hour and never found the damn screw. Magnetic wand all over the interior. All the usual tricks. Even resorted to moving around all the crap and sweeping the garage. Finally gave up after one final check to make sure it wasnt under a tire. Fortunately my mechanic had one that fit. I'm going back to my magnetic cup for screws after this.

Its a fairly easy repair. No reason to put up with an intermittently failing door lock, hoping it will get better. I used an Asin actuator off Amazon. Same brand Toyota uses, but much cheaper. I also got some of those little electric motors. I'm going to practice on the old actuator and be ready for when the next one goes out. Which it will.
 
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I realized I did not install the tiny screw that holds the actuator together.

HaHa, I just forgot to reinstall the same screw on my LC. I found it when I was cleaning up... I’ll probably take that door back apart tomorrow and install the screw, arghh.
 
Just thought I would followup and reiterate a very important point. I replaced my actuator 2 years ago and never connected the emergency key rod. When the actuator failed again, I ended up getting locked out of car WITH the motor running. It wasn't cool. see below thread for details.


Anyway, anyone doing a driver door lock repair, make sure you check the key! BTW I was able to align the rods with only removing the window track bolt and nothing else. Its a blind install but there are features on the actuator case to help you guide the rods into place.
 
My driver side acutator just called it quits at 72K on '13 LX. Thanks everyone for posting these instructions and tips. I'll have to tackle it when I get some time.
 
Thanks all for this thread & the tips.
My front drives & passenger side locks on my 2015 LX with 95k miles have not worked for the last 10 months.
Bought the replacement motors on Amazon and replace them today. I’ve never removed door panels before and was pretty paranoid about breaking something. Almost 3 hours for the passenger door (watched a lot of YouTube videos). Less than 45 minutes to do the driver side door.
Like most things – it’s easy when you know what you’re doing.
Thanks
 
Front passenger door actuator went out a few weeks ago on my 2013 LX570. (Previous owner had drivers side replaced at dealer a couple years ago).
Info in this thread was a huge help so figured I would post about my experience for the next guy.

I used this guys video for a step by step on removing the door panel:
LX 570 Door Panel Removal Video

Ordered the motor that is linked earlier in this thread or here:
Door Actuator Motor

Once the actuator was out and on the table, it was just a matter of identifying the corner the motor was in and gently prying apart the plastic case.
I did NOT completely disassemble the actuator, I just pried it apart enough to slide the old motor out and the new one in.

In order to open the actuator case, I had to remove one small screw in the middle and gently pry open the clips on the perimeter of the case.
I thought the plastic may break but it held together.

Once the motor was out, I adjusted the shaft on the new motor in the same orientation as the old motor then slid the gear onto the blade. Not sure if this helps everything sync up or not but I did it anyway.

I then reinstalled the motor into the housing and started buttoning everything up.

So far everything is working as it should. It was a tedious process and I recommend buying a few of those plastic door clips before you take the panel off. I was careful and still managed to break a couple.

Below are some pics.
Actuator 1.jpg
Actuator 2.jpg
 
Reviving an older thread. I just replaced my passenger side actuator thanks to the instructions of those before me. Saved around a $600 quote from the dealership by ordering the replacement motor off of amazon. Thanks all!
Overall time was probably around an hour and a half due to stopping, watching videos and taking my sweet time.
 

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