Factory Rear Sub (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bear80
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- Thread starter
- #2
As you can tell there are 6 wires into the sub amp, 1 ground and 2 out to the sub.
1 Gray is Power (Edit)(always 12v)
2 Red/Black is Power from the radio (on/off)
3 Yellow is REAR Left Speaker Input -
4 Black is REAR Left Speaker Input +
5 Red is REAR Right Rear Speaker Input +
6 White is REAR Right Rear Speaker Input -
White/Black is Ground
Green/Red is Sub Output -
Green/Black is Sub Output +
Note, the factorty head unit and amp are only 4 channels. The front dash speakers connect to the front door speakers and the rear roof speakers connect to the rear door speakers.
1 Gray is Power (Edit)(always 12v)
2 Red/Black is Power from the radio (on/off)
3 Yellow is REAR Left Speaker Input -
4 Black is REAR Left Speaker Input +
5 Red is REAR Right Rear Speaker Input +
6 White is REAR Right Rear Speaker Input -
White/Black is Ground
Green/Red is Sub Output -
Green/Black is Sub Output +
Note, the factorty head unit and amp are only 4 channels. The front dash speakers connect to the front door speakers and the rear roof speakers connect to the rear door speakers.
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- Thread starter
- #3
Now to address the function of the factory sub......
Now my fathers 95 and my 97 both have a semi-fuctioning sub. It plays...but no bass and plays at a low level. This led me to belive the amp wasn't turning on. Well the amps get power, ground and remote turn on power. Next step was that the amps went bad...nope (bought a new one and speaker)! I do not have an Oscope to check speaker inputs...so my theory is that one or more of the factory splice points from the speakers are bad/wrong. This would give the amp some signal but not a complete set...leading to low/no amplification.
Now my fathers 95 and my 97 both have a semi-fuctioning sub. It plays...but no bass and plays at a low level. This led me to belive the amp wasn't turning on. Well the amps get power, ground and remote turn on power. Next step was that the amps went bad...nope (bought a new one and speaker)! I do not have an Oscope to check speaker inputs...so my theory is that one or more of the factory splice points from the speakers are bad/wrong. This would give the amp some signal but not a complete set...leading to low/no amplification.
- Thread starter
- #4
Also I installed a basslink so I never finished trouble shooting the factory sub problem.
One note. I belive the cd/tape combo unit used the smaller 15 pin single connector. But there is also the 10 and 6 pin combo. One night I tried connecting my single din toyota cd player (tacoma) that uses two 10 pin and 6 pin connectors. Now from what I have read here, you use the 10 pin connector for an aftermarket head unit and will loose rear speakers since they are on the 6 pin connector. Well when I pluged in my taco's unit, the unit fried..no more worky....so I belive somwhere there is some messed up wiring. Or I'm wrong about the connectors in the dash.
So I'd just like to know what connectors are used to install aftermarket head units.
(Think I just answered my own question below
)
Actually a better question is..when installing an aftermarket head unit using the 10 pin connector, do you need to disconnect the connector at the dash mounted amp. (maybe this is why I fried my taco's player?)
One note. I belive the cd/tape combo unit used the smaller 15 pin single connector. But there is also the 10 and 6 pin combo. One night I tried connecting my single din toyota cd player (tacoma) that uses two 10 pin and 6 pin connectors. Now from what I have read here, you use the 10 pin connector for an aftermarket head unit and will loose rear speakers since they are on the 6 pin connector. Well when I pluged in my taco's unit, the unit fried..no more worky....so I belive somwhere there is some messed up wiring. Or I'm wrong about the connectors in the dash.
So I'd just like to know what connectors are used to install aftermarket head units.
(Think I just answered my own question below
)Actually a better question is..when installing an aftermarket head unit using the 10 pin connector, do you need to disconnect the connector at the dash mounted amp. (maybe this is why I fried my taco's player?)
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D
Docmallory
Guest
Thanks for posting that. That helps a lot.
So, it looks like the factory sub has amplification from both front and rear amps, right? So, if I remove the factory rear amp, those speaker wires to the sub will still be running through the front amp.
Hmmm, that's a bad thing if my plan is to run those wires to an upgraded rear amp, correct? More noise?
Also, I'm very ignorant about these things, but I have read something somewhere about a "common ground" system. Looks like that is what the radio output is prior to the amp. Another bad thing?
Heck, no wonder everyone just upgrades to an aftermarket head unit.
So, it looks like the factory sub has amplification from both front and rear amps, right? So, if I remove the factory rear amp, those speaker wires to the sub will still be running through the front amp.
Hmmm, that's a bad thing if my plan is to run those wires to an upgraded rear amp, correct? More noise?
Also, I'm very ignorant about these things, but I have read something somewhere about a "common ground" system. Looks like that is what the radio output is prior to the amp. Another bad thing?
Heck, no wonder everyone just upgrades to an aftermarket head unit.
- Thread starter
- #7
Docmallory said:
well all splices are after the speaker amp. (there is only one in the passenger side dash) So the speaker amp uses low level input from the head unit and outputs high level to the speakers. Now the sub amp uses high level inputs (it would have made more sense to me to use the low level from the head unit, IMO)
- Thread starter
- #8
Docmallory said:
I'd say it's a perfect place, BUT you reported having the same sub problem as myself. And my conclusion was that these speaker inputs are bad.
Ok here is my setup that will be installed during spring break(yeah school sucks) 260W 4channel optimus amp(pioneer made). Infinity kappa passive component crossovers, with kappa tweeters in the back headliner and front dash. I will re-use the factory door speakers for woofers. All tied to the factory head unit.
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- Thread starter
- #9
yeah you got the common ground theory right, just don't try to ground a speaker that is suppose to hook to a common ground amp. Just so you know all amps that have + and - speaker connections are common ground.
Oh and as I noted above, if you connect an aftermarket head unit using the universal toyota connectors kit, I BELIVE it comes with only the 10 pin connector so you will lose rear speakers, they are on the 6pin connector.
If you use the factory head unit with a 15 pin connector and the dash mounted amp or any other toyota unit with 10pin & 6 pin connectors, then you can use the speaker level inputs back at the sub amp.
Oh and as I noted above, if you connect an aftermarket head unit using the universal toyota connectors kit, I BELIVE it comes with only the 10 pin connector so you will lose rear speakers, they are on the 6pin connector.
If you use the factory head unit with a 15 pin connector and the dash mounted amp or any other toyota unit with 10pin & 6 pin connectors, then you can use the speaker level inputs back at the sub amp.
HELP!!
Well I thought I was on to something by following Bear80s thread, then he bailed and bought the Basslink!@!!
I was going to do that as well, but I am trying to still get something at least decent into the stock space. I bought a 1 channel Alpine amp to power an 8' sub. I'm keeping the metal bracket and will be securing a small homemade enclosure behind it. and have a woofer grill that will be painted to match the panel.
I've looked at the wiring diagram above, and it just doesn't make sense to me. Speakers wired parallel, inputs into the sub amp from only R side.....arghh!
I'm keeping the stock head unit, have 4 door Eclipses, and have disconnected the front and rear tweets.
All I need to know at this point is which wires to use from that factory bundle that plugs into the stock amp to use as my high level inputs (Alpine accepts these instead of RCAs)....There doesn't appear to be a left signal in that bunch......I'm confused if I need to leave that stock amp in there because it serves as a common connection, or just maybe take leads from the rear tweets?
Braindead in Carolina
Well I thought I was on to something by following Bear80s thread, then he bailed and bought the Basslink!@!!
I was going to do that as well, but I am trying to still get something at least decent into the stock space. I bought a 1 channel Alpine amp to power an 8' sub. I'm keeping the metal bracket and will be securing a small homemade enclosure behind it. and have a woofer grill that will be painted to match the panel.
I've looked at the wiring diagram above, and it just doesn't make sense to me. Speakers wired parallel, inputs into the sub amp from only R side.....arghh!
I'm keeping the stock head unit, have 4 door Eclipses, and have disconnected the front and rear tweets.
All I need to know at this point is which wires to use from that factory bundle that plugs into the stock amp to use as my high level inputs (Alpine accepts these instead of RCAs)....There doesn't appear to be a left signal in that bunch......I'm confused if I need to leave that stock amp in there because it serves as a common connection, or just maybe take leads from the rear tweets?
Braindead in Carolina
D
Docmallory
Guest
Go to post # 2 in this thread and go by everything Bear says EXCEPT wires 3 and 4.
3 (yellow) should be left negative
4 (black) should be left positive.
If you look at Bear's scan, you'll see that "RL" on those two wires mean "Rear Left", and the R doesn't stand for Right.
Hope this makes sense. I just did almost the exact same thing you are thinking of doing (although I used a box instead of a built-in enclosure for my sub). It sounds acceptable, but not great.
3 (yellow) should be left negative
4 (black) should be left positive.
If you look at Bear's scan, you'll see that "RL" on those two wires mean "Rear Left", and the R doesn't stand for Right.
Hope this makes sense. I just did almost the exact same thing you are thinking of doing (although I used a box instead of a built-in enclosure for my sub). It sounds acceptable, but not great.
Thanks Bear and Doc....That makes a lot more sense....I may end up with a Basslink if this doesn't work out, but I really am determined to get something into that trim panel....Good, bad, (hopefully not >)ugly......it's getting personal now!
New question.
Can I use the stock headunit power on/off lead to switch the amp? I've ran 8 ga for constant from the battery...
Can I use the stock headunit power on/off lead to switch the amp? I've ran 8 ga for constant from the battery...
Can somebody post this pic again? I can't see them - maybe file was deleted already.
I'm going to add a amp for a 6in pyle woofer I installed. Then I am going to cut cardboard to fit a full enclosure and then saturate the CB with fiberglass resin and put it in place. Should bump decently.
Mitch
Mitch
Trying to install a new powered sub in the stock location but it’s not working. I followed the above wiring description. In trouble shooting I Noticed that the red/black is only 8 mV and crutchfield said it should be 12V. Also I’m running an after market double din unit and my rear ceiling speakers are working. Also I’ve by passed the front factory amp. Any thoughts on where to start?
I would start by making sure that the red/black wire is properly connected the head-unit's amp turn-on wire. (and that it has 12V)
