Extended stabilizer bar links needed? (1 Viewer)

[kgrove]

How much lift on a KZJ78 before extended stabilizer bar links are needed? Or helpful?

My KZJ78 has about a 2-3" lift (unsure of exact height) and while I was attempting to drop the front stabilizer bar, a bolt was frozen and I snapped it off. There's a bit of play in the fitting anyway, so rather than try to extract the bolt, I was going to just buy new stabilizer bar links. That got me thinking... if I'm going to the effort, should I look for extended links and drop the bar? I'm nearly positive the old stabilizer bar links on mine were OE.

The OEM part numbers are 48820-60010 (RH) and 48810-60010 (LH) for abut $35 each, though Partsouq is showing a couple aftermarket versions for about 1/3 the cost. I've cross referenced the OEM part and it does not appear to have been used on any US spec cars, just 70 series.

 

[coldtaco]

Extend the same amount as the lift

 

[JuanJ]

Extend the same amount as the lift

Hello,

x2.





Juan

 

[Felde]

I had mine initially not extended on my BJ73 3" OME lift. It worked, but the bushes wore extensively. Get them extended.. (likewise the LSPV lever mounting point).
Cheers Ralf

 

[Rigster]

This is a somewhat subjective question... one that may be difficult to answer. Does it drive fine now? Does it wear out the bushings quickly?

I am all for keeping things as close to factory as possible, reducing any stress points. I think for my 4" lift, I added a 2.5" droplink connection (terrain tamer if memory serves) for the stabilizer bar.

 

[kgrove]

This is a somewhat subjective question... one that may be difficult to answer. Does it drive fine now? Does it wear out the bushings quickly?

I am all for keeping things as close to factory as possible, reducing any stress points. I think for my 4" lift, I added a 2.5" droplink connection (terrain tamer if memory serves) for the stabilizer bar.

Tough question... The shocks on mine currently are so bad it would mask over any problems with the sway bar being too "tight" and limiting movement too much, and I have only owned the car for a few months and can't say whether it has been chewing through bushings too quickly or not. It came with a lift done in Japan - used new springs but OE shocks and original sway bar links. The bushings in place now look ok, which given the vehicle is 26 yrs old tells me they've been replaced at least once. The condition of the bolts attaching the bushings suggest they have not been replaced particularly recently. When jack the car by the frame, there is considerably less droop in the tires than I would have expected, so I suspect sway bar extensions would not be a bad thing.

I think I'll re-evaluate after I've replaced the OE shocks and the aged sway bar links without extensions. It would be a pretty simple change to come back after the fact and insert a set of extensions below the links.

 

[RhinoRig]

I extended mine after seeing wear and how the bushings got destroyed. Don’t notice a difference while driving, but they’re much happier. And if you want to keep things stock, then why lift it?

 

[vega01]

Any suggestions of extended links which would fit a 70 series?

 

[Felde]

I researched, but there are no longer swaybar links available.
So I made new extended swaybar links first from M8 threaded rod, 2 M8 locking nuts and a respective 8mm steel tube, just the same way the factory ones constructed. But I experienced a horrible clunking noise wen the axle articulated. I found that was due to the threaded rod canted in the mount on the frame and was not moving in the bushes as supposed to due to the rough threads.
I replaced the threaded rod by a plain rod and cut some threads just on the ends, making sure there is smooth surface where the rod passes the hole in the mount. All good now.
Cheers Ralf

 

[vega01]

Thank you Ralf!
Do you maybe have some pictures?

 

[Felde]

Thank you Ralf!
Do you maybe have some pictures?

Sure.
But the diy extended version looks pretty much the same as the factory version, except for the surface corrosion protection (painted, not gold-chromated) and a locking nut on each end (where the factory item has a hex bolt-head on one end).
The length depends on your lift.
Inner rod is 8mm. Outer tube is 10mm inner diameter (the rod must comfortably slide into it); 13mm outer diameter (1.5mm wall thickness), but that doesn't matter much: Any size that sits on the cone washers will do. Thread length 25mm each side. 2x M8 lock nuts.
I'm pretty sure you can also use 5/16" stuff.
Bushings and cone washers from the factory item. Cheers Ralf

 

[vega01]

Thanks a lot!
I couldn't fully understand your description, because LJ/KZJ's links are different from HD 70 series.

 

[Felde]

Oh sorry. Didn't know that..

 

[876 Cruisers]

Dobinsons Front Swaybar Extension Set for Toyota Land Cruiser 70 and 80 Series (9/1991+)(SE59-516)

For 3" to 6" lift heights Zinc plated steel with all hardware supplied Simple bolt-on design Reduces bushing wear and corrects sway bar angle to function properly Sold as a pair, 1 needed per vehicle -- Dobinsons Spring & Suspension front Swaybar Extensions to suit 3" to 6" of lift on Toyota...

www.dobinsonsdirect.com

Dobinsons make a front sway bar extender.

 

[876 Cruisers]

They also have for the rear as well if needed

 

[vega01]

Oh sorry. Didn't know that..

Not at all! Your posts are a great way to learn.

 

[nomadtribe]

I have a 2 inch lift on mine and ended up with Dobson extension for both front and rear.

My rear link was resting on the shock - similar to the picture shown in the post above.

Handling is really good with no issues to date.

Note - For the rear extension I needed to drill and tap a new hole.