episodic non-start 12v 2H (electrical issue) (1 Viewer)

[Aravind Dileepan]

I have a 62 with a 12v 2H. The 2H came from Canada and the 62 body is American. Torfab did the conversion years ago. Because it's a 12v, the starter and alternator are not original to the engine, but I couldn't tell you where they come from.

The issue I'm having quite frequently now but over the years only happened once every couple months is the following: I turn the key and hear a click but the starter won't engage.

I have replaced my batteries (Interstate Megatrons wired in parallel), I have tried replacing all my battery cables and ground straps (in the engine bay, at least), and no difference. Recently, I even installed a remote starter button that's wired directly to the battery and to the starter solenoid. When the key won't work, there are some times that the remote button works. Other times, neither works.

I've had luck banging on the starter, but then it's gotten to where that doesn't work all the time. I've tried jumping, but that's not consistent, either.

Voltage at my batteries reads 12.6+. I get good voltage at the post on the starter, even at the terminal on the solenoid. I've taken the starter to a shop and he says it tests fine.

I can't figure out a common variable so I'm having a hard time diagnosing it.

One thing, there is no starter relay. The column ignition goes straight to the solenoid terminal.

Thanks,

Ara

 

[duncanrm]

....

 

[too tall]

I've had the same issue on my 12v 2h starter for a while. Tried replacing plunger and contacts as well as the motor itself. Seems to work for a little while with all new parts but occasionally I get the "Click". It seems to me that it might be one of the cylinders coming up on compression exactly when the engine stops spinning when I shut it off. I am thinking maybe the 12v starter doesn't have enough power to push through that compression stroke?
If it happens on a hill I can coast the truck a few feet then let the clutch out for a little bump and it will then start with the key. My starter does not have a relay on it either . Thinking I might add one and use the original start circuit to light it up?

 

[hj 60]

12v starter with short 24v burst survives long time, but new starter seems next step?
No starter relay is not the best option to use long time, sparks cause burn pit in switch, or switch is a durable heavy duty kind?

 

[Aravind Dileepan]

Too tall, I hadn't thought of that. I don't normally park near a hill, but I'll see what I can do to test this out next time it happens. I bought a relay recently and am eager to install it.

 

[Aravind Dileepan]

12v starter with short 24v burst survives long time, but new starter seems next step?
No starter relay is not the best option to use long time, sparks cause burn pit in switch, or switch is a durable heavy duty kind?

I'm running a 12v system altogether, so the starter is only getting 12v. Do you think that if it consistently tests fine on the bench that it might still fail mounted to the car?

 

[hj 60]

If you want you can add an extra battery and see if that helps to start with 24v (if it happens at home or when you have time, 12v can handle that), but yes the workbench test is also just a moment, since you said: over the years only happened once every couple months
I would replace the starter anyway, if a smash with a hammer does not solve it anymore it is time to replace.

 

[Aravind Dileepan]

I finally replaced the starter and it seems to have solved the problem. I'll report back after a few days, if I'm having consistent good results.

One thing to note: the starter I bought from Amazon (part number 28100 47080), doesn't fit without some work. The mounting ears on the nose cone don't line up with the mount points on the H55 bellhousing. So I removed the nose cone/mounting bracket from the old one and put it onto the new one.

This pic shows the new bracket stacked on top of the old one. The top left holes are aligned and you can see how the lower right are offset.

Swapping them proved to be a bit of a pain because of stripped screw heads and pushing brushes back to get the rotor to fit back in (don't let this scare you: if I hadn't done this last night, I wouldn't have understood this description, either.

Now I just need to be on the lookout for a starter from an H55 to steal the nosecone.

Best,

Ara D.

 

[Aravind Dileepan]

No issues still, so I'm confident the starter was faulty.

I'll replace the nosecone then have the starter rebuilt so that I have a spare.

 

[Aravind Dileepan]

Over time, the turning the key wouldn't start the car, but the pushbutton remote switch I had did. I figured it was a voltage issue, maybe something in the steering column was loose or poorly grounded, meanwhile the remote switch was directly hard wired to the battery and to the starter, so that switch was getting good full voltage.

I finally installed this Hot Shot relay by Painless and now I have no issues at all. I haven't used the remote starter switch once.

I'm still going to open the clamshell and check out the wiring to clean it up, but the relay is quick and easy (although it turned into a bit of a pain for me simply due to the orientation of the ignition wire connection on the starter).