Engine woes

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Yes, just unplug the 72 volt reg.

For now, get an alt off of a part out 60 to try on the 55. They are very reliable, so if the donor truck was running, then the alt ought to work on the 55.
 
Just a thought, the symptoms were a little different, but my 87 FJ60 was stalling out whenever I idled down at a stop. First it was intermittent, then consistent. It turned out to be the EGR vaccuum unit (not the EGR valve). Since yours is desmogged it probably dosn't have one, but just in case...we cleaned out the gause filter inside the plastic housing and blew it out and voila, no more stalling...runs like a top.
 
Alright everyone. I got a alternator out of an 87 donor. I took it to get it tested before I was going to attempt to install it (thanks ZebraBee fj40). All tested great! But.....it doesn't fit! It is just a little too small to fit over the alternator bracket. I mean just a LITTLE bit too small! It looks like there may be a bushing in the rear hole of the alternator, but I dont want to go pounding on it if it is not going to move....should I grind a bit off the bracket or does that bushing move? Or is something else amiss?

Any suggestions?

Randy
 
That bushing is supposed to move to make up for different brackets. It is pressed in, plus corroded between the aluminum housing and steel bush.

Spray it w/ blaster, then tap on the outside to help get the penetrant in there. Select a socket that is slightly larger than the bushing OD, hold the alt up, resting on the socket, and hammer the bushing toward the rear (into the socket).
 
wiring

Project bushing press is complete. Alt is on and I am holding the two wires that went to the old alternator. As Jim has told me, the previous alt had a 3 prong connector and the new alt only has two prongs....Can you talk me through were to attach these wires I am holding? Thanks Jim!

After I get this alternator I plan to check the ignitor and coil. I got a shop manual and am learning a great deal and hopefully can do that myself. If all of this fails, we will move on to the next......but my fingers are crossed!!

Randy
new alt install.webp
 
The big white/bluestripe wire is the charge wire that goes on the large charge terminal. Looks like that wire is missing the big ring terminal.

On the back of the alt is a 2 pin connector. They are labeled "L" and "IG". To make the alternator charge, connect a ignition switched +12V wire to the IG terminal.

One way to do that is by jumpering across the connector at the regulator. Jumper from the B/Y colored wire to thw W/G wire. Find the W/G wire in the 3 pin alt connector and make a short adaptr wire to connect from W/G to "IG".

Ignore the L for now, it is only used to turn on the alt warning light.
 
I hooked the big blue and white wire to a new ring terminal and hooked it up tp the nut on the back of the donor alternator. Found the green/white wire in the 3 prog plug and cut it and put on a spade connector and hooked it to the alternator IG. Unplugged the voltage regulator on the inside of the fender. After a cold start, I let the pig idle for about 10 minutes and then got in to drive.

Drove great around the block and through the neighborhood. Took it to get some gas just in case (fuel guage is not the best) Came home and got the cell phone to take it upon the highway (just in case). Drove it about 3 miles at highway speed. Did not hesitate or die.....until I was on the last stop light on the way home. It died and then acted like it had a low battery. I shut the lights off and it started and I drove home.

Runs better, but I dont think the problem is solved. Maybe it is the coil since it seems to do bad after it gets hot.

Because I am new, would it run if I hooked up the alternator incorrectly? And lastly, since I am not using the three pronged clip, will the "charge" light work?

Randy
 
Update- I just went out and started it and then pulled the positive terminal off the battery and it immediately died.......alternator not charging
:censor::censor::censor:
 
The big white/bluestripe wire is the charge wire that goes on the large charge terminal. Looks like that wire is missing the big ring terminal.

On the back of the alt is a 2 pin connector. They are labeled "L" and "IG". To make the alternator charge, connect a ignition switched +12V wire to the IG terminal.

One way to do that is by jumpering across the connector at the regulator. Jumper from the B/Y colored wire to thw W/G wire. Find the W/G wire in the 3 pin alt connector and make a short adaptr wire to connect from W/G to "IG".

Ignore the L for now, it is only used to turn on the alt warning light.

When you say "jump accross the connector at the regulator" are you talking about the old 72 regulator on the fender?
 
Regulator Plug

Here is a pick of the regulator unplugged. I do not see a B/Y wire anywhere. The one that on the SE corner that looks like there is a peice of copper wire hanging out is just that. A piece of copper wire. This has been like this since I bought the pig a year and a half ago....
regulator plug.webp
 
Update- I just went out and started it and then pulled the positive terminal off the battery and it immediately died.......alternator not charging
:censor::censor::censor:

I just read that this is a bad thing to do. Now I know. I hope I did not screw it up more. Keeps on getting better.:bang:

Questioning my desire to continue to eff with this.....

Pity party for me.:meh:
 
At the regulator plug to jump over there are three wires that are "hot" with the key on. They are W/R, W/Y, and White with no stripe. The W/BL, W/BK, and W/GR travel down the line of wires and end up in the plug by the alternator in picture post #45. Since there is not a B/Y what would you suggest I jump to the W/G? And can I figure out how to make the charge light work? Maybe jump something to the W/B in the plug. I am kind of assuming that the W/BK may be a ground.....


Randy
 
Jumped the white green to the wire adjacent( W/R) to it and the white blue wire to the hot wire adjacent to it (W/Y).
Light works when the key is turned on, then goes off after the engine starts. Still rough idle........

Replaced the idle solenoid with a new one. Started right up and idled perfectly. We will see if it keeps on keepin on. It is spratic sometimes, so we will see if it will consistantly run......

Thank you for your help everyone on this. I hope to put this to rest.

Randy
 
Nope. Alternator not charging battery. Starts very hard like it has a tired dead battery even though it is less than a year old.

Rndy
 
The bottom line is there needs to be +12V supplied to the IG terminal on the alternator to make it charge.

If it is not possible to figure out the hacked f/2F alt regulator wiring, then just add a new wire from the ignitor hot terminal over to the back of the alternator.

Then run the engine and check for charging voltage (~13.8V) on the output terminal of the alternator.
Then check for the same voltage on the battery terminals.
 
Jim, I checked the first two and they are both a "yes". I am embarrased to say that I do not know how to check the back of the alternator at the charge terminal. The FSM I have says you have to hook up an ammeter and a voltometer. I do not have an ammeter. I can tell you that I drove it down to AutoZone after charging the battery (about 4 miles) and they tested the battery (12.89 v) and the alternator after start up at the battery posts (13.2 v). He said it was charging the battery. But as I was driving home the charge light would glow very very dimly. If you can tell me how to check the charge teminal with the volmeter I have, I will. I just don't want to ruin something else electically because I do something wrong. I got enough going on with the Landshark...

Randy
 
The charge terminal is the big ring terminal on the back of the alt. Check for charging voltage between the threaded stud and the alternator body.

FWIW, 13.2V is kinda low charging voltage at the battery. Should see 13.5V-14.0, revved a little with accessories off.
 
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