Engine woes

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

We thought about that too. I have been semi searching for a coil and ignitor. THe ignitors are PIRCEY on SOR. My dad said he was not familiar with the ignitor and wondered what exaclty they did? It can be by- passed?

Thanks for the help all.

randy
 
The ignitor senses the mV pulse from the signal generator in the coil, then switches the 12V coil on & off, just like points.

The ignitor never fails, IME. Coils will leak out the oil, or burn up from overvoltage. Other possible failures include: signal generator in dissy, corroded connection at ignitor ground, inadequate ground from ignitor/coil bracket to engine block...
 
Oh yeah...I forgot to mention just wear the moisture that got in the dissy came from. There is a chip in the lip of the dizzy housing.

Not sure if that would affect it in some way as it sits now....obviously, I am going to need a new housing to make it "protected" from the elements, but as stated before the advance is working now. I have a coil on the way and will keep everyone posted.

Randy
 
Pulled the AutoLite plugs and installed NGK plugs. Cleaned and got the idle solenoid working each time when juiced. Drove like a champ. Did not die at stops or run poorly.

Not ready to say that I am completely covinced and will drive it to swim practice and to school tomorrow....I will wait for the weekend to drive it to Lowes or something!

Thanks for the help everyone......I will test it more this weekend and hopefully put this chapter to rest.

That being said, the Jim C carb is awesome and the pig is running better (tonight) than it ever has since I have owned it. I was doing 60 with throtttle to spare. Good times.

randy
 
I have a 73 fj40 so I know a few things are different but I had a similar problem, replaced everything and still had the problem. One day messing around with it having a few beers I dropped the BFH and it hit and cracked the fuel pump, pissed i put on an electric pump that was in the tool box, what do you know it fixed the problem . I had checked the pump before and it seamed to be working but guess it was just not quite enough volume or pressure.
 
Just kidding everyone. Took it out and did some driving for 10 15 miles. Died at every stop sign/light. Neat.
 
First, determine if the dieing at stops is ignition or fuel failure.

One way to quick test ignition is with an inductive timing light (the type that clamps around a plug wire).
Connect light as normal, then bring light in pass window if cables are long enough. Tape light to WS wiper if cables don't reach inside truck. Drive around with light flashing furiously.

When the engine dies, if the light goes off as the engine starts to die, then the ignition is cutting out. If the light blinks right until the engine stops turning, then the ignition is OK, and there is some problem w/ mechanical or fuel.

HTH
 
FJ40Jim said:
First, determine if the dieing at stops is ignition or fuel failure.

One way to quick test ignition is with an inductive timing light (the type that clamps around a plug wire).
Connect light as normal, then bring light in pass window if cables are long enough. Tape light to WS wiper if cables don't reach inside truck. Drive around with light flashing furiously.

When the engine dies, if the light goes off as the engine starts to die, then the ignition is cutting out. If the light blinks right until the engine stops turning, then the ignition is OK, and there is some problem w/ mechanical or fuel.

HTH
Click to expand...

Strobe lights inside the cab? Now I KNOW you are a child of the '70s!!:lol::lol::lol:


[edit].....from OHIO!
 
65swb45 said:
Strobe lights inside the cab? Now I KNOW you are a child of the '70s!!:lol::lol::lol:

[edit].....from OHIO!
Click to expand...
Hey! We agreed to just gloss over that part!:eek:

Dang hippies.:mad:
 
Each time engine dies the charge battery would flash before and of course after it died. Pulled the alternator and took it to Autozone. Test failed. Took it to Advance Auto....just barely pushed 14 amps. They said it was on its last leg. Got a call in to Cruiser Dan to get a new reman OEM alternator. We'll see what happens....

Randy
 
Wait! Does the truck have the F or the 2F alt bracketry?

If it has 2F bracketry, then do yourself a favor and buy the 81-87 2F alternator w/ internal solid-state regulator. It drops into the brackets, uses one 12V+ switched ignition wire to excite, and the usual big ring terminal to charge the vehicle. It won't do the flip flop ammeter trick at low speed, and has a few more amps available when revved up.
 
Not sure. I assume 2F bracket. Here is a pic. Is this the 2F? Do i get that Alt from Cruiser Dan also?
alt.bracket.webp
 
flaa1a said:
Not sure. I assume 2F bracket. Here is a pic. Is this the 2F? Do i get that Alt from Cruiser Dan also?
Click to expand...

That IS the 2F bracket. Toyota still sells them fairly reasonably IIRC. Used FJ60 alternators are pretty plentiful in the parting out section on here if you want to go that route.

Best

Mark A.
 
this may sound silly, but I had the same issue once, engine would start and run, till I got up to speed, then choke and die. Let it a few, it would start, get going, choke and die. Turned out to be the inline fuel fliter. when the engine stopped, the felch in the filter would settle to the bottom, but once running, it would get sucked up against the filter blocking the fuel flow.
 
yeah....I changed the fuel filter when we put the rebuilt carb on....would you chance it with a parted out alt (age) or just get one from the dealer? I lean towards the dealer just to cover that base with the issues i am having.
 
Will do Jim. Thanks for the info. May need a little advice on the install of the "upgraded" alt. Do the plugs fit exactly or is there some "wiring" that needs to take place?

Getting closer to winning the battle!

Randy
 
dying out

well hopefully the alt will pan out seems strange though cause you would think the batt would go dead over time instead of the ignition just dying out

could it be the ignition is getting cut out instead?

twice i ran into kinda unusual probs like that

10 year old 71 monte carlo 402 with points -- driving along it would just die,

start solenoid had a short I found eventually--- but the ballast resistor would glow red sometimes. I discon the coil wires and ran a wire straight to the coil so both the ignition and start sol were out of the pic and it worked, eliminated to the solenoid in the deenergized position, never had another prob

brand new 99 harley springer--- I would be going down the road and the electric speedo would dive to zero and the engine power would die to almost nothing. Would do it intermittently but run fine for long periods

main power relay feeding the ignition came loose and a hole chafed in it and water got into it

might not be a bad idea to hot wire to the coil as well as the other suggestions--just another thing to eliminate

good luck
 
I called CDan and he told me that in order to use the 81-87 Alternator (55 amp) I would need to have all the screws and the regulator cover. The alternator that i have now obviously does not have those....

That cover is not available anymore. He suggested getting one from a part out 60 and then I can take the the parts i need off of that and get the reman one from him.

I can do all that. My worry, because I am new to this, is the rewiring. Do you just by pass that regulator on the driver side fender?

Thanks for the help everyone.

Randy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom