Engine wiring harness removal

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Joined
Oct 28, 2020
Threads
10
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Location
granite bay
I am taking out the harness to do my headgasket. Using OTRAMM and FSM, going pretty smoothly until I tried to reach the big foam covered connectors above and behind the starter. To those of you that have done this with the motor in the truck, how did you get in there? I tried from below, and through the wheel well.
It looks like taking off the fender liner might buy some space?
Thanks in Advance for the help!
 
You don’t have to remove the harness or intake manifold from the engine bay lots of guys have just swing it over to the driver side fender.
 
I am taking out the harness to do my headgasket. Using OTRAMM and FSM, going pretty smoothly until I tried to reach the big foam covered connectors above and behind the starter. To those of you that have done this with the motor in the truck, how did you get in there? I tried from below, and through the wheel well.
It looks like taking off the fender liner might buy some space?
Thanks in Advance for the help!
Did you remove the tire and apron splash guards for better access? The connectors behind the glove box are no picnic either.

Also, it’s not a bad thing to open up the connectors above the start just to take a peak at their condition. Many have had corrosion inside one or more of those connectors varying from mild to wild.
 
Thanks Baldilocks, I was just out there, and looking at the condition of the harness(265k) and the fact that now is the time to do it, I think I am going to go
Ahead and pull it out.
I broke 2 of the sensors( knock?) when I was disconnecting under the truck, they basically disintegrated. So at the very least, I need to get those fixed.
I may even look for a new OE harness, I believe they may still be available from Toyota.
But first I gotta get the head off and to the machine shop….
 
I wanted to bump this, I did end up pulling the harness over to the passenger side, and I ordered a new one today from Toyota.
I got the intake completly removed, pulled the valve cover, went to rotate the crank to TDC and it would only rotate about 180*, and then it stops.
It feels as though there is solid contact being made somwhere.
So after the initial freak, I checked:
Trans in neutral
No obstructions down the chain, tensioner is making contact with the guide
All belts except the AC are removed
Spark plugs are removed
A little backstory, I started it one day and saw white steam/smoke out the tailpipe, smelled sweet.
The truck ran great, and after that I didnt drive it.
After diagnosing the headgasket, I started the truck very briefly (10sec)
It had a vacum line off at that point and shuddered pretty good, I immediatly turned it off.
Coolant sat in it for about 3 weeks before I drained, same with oil.
I towed the truck about 150ft to the spot I'm working on it.
Would the AC belt cause it to stop rotating?
So what should I be looking for?
What are my options?
Thanks in advance for any and all suggestion, this place is full of highly knowledgeable folks, and I know somebody can steer me to a solution.
 
3 weeks isn't much time for rust to develop around a piston ring but I suppose it isn't impossible. Did you have a deep socket in the torque converter inspection plate? if it's a solid clunk you could have a second person as a listener to narrow down where the clunk is coming from.
 
Hey 60toy,
Thanks for the response, no I never took that inspection plate off.
When I rotate the crank pulley bolt, it turns, then stops, no clunk, just stops.
I am not forcing it, but I have put steady pressure on it, and get no movement.
So without being able to set TDC, what is the procedure for pulling the cams, so I can access the head bolts?
Any Ideas?
Thanks again!
 
Pull the valve cover zip tie the timing chain to the timing gear and remove it then you should be able to do what you need to do to the cams out and pull the head. Putting everything back together will be a little harder to get timing marks but can rotate the engine and cut and add zip ties as you rotate the engine to get the timing marks lined up.
Tommy
 
Knock sensor part # 89615-30050. You will need 2 if they fell apart.

The AC compressor belt being in place will not stop the rotation of the motor abruptly.

You said the plugs are removed. I just want to verify that all 6 are removed and you aren't compressing left over coolant in a cylinder (likely # 6).

If you rotate the engine to where it stops can you rotate is back 360 degrees and it stops again?
 
Tommy, thanks for that, exactly what I was looking for. I will go out tonight and get after it.
Delta, yes all six removed, it stops in both directions. I know you arent supposed to go counterclockwise, but....
It wont go 360* in either direction, actually less than 180.
I will know more after I get the head off.
Thanks for the reply, keep the suggestions coming!
John
 
Oh yeah, I know there is something jacked up.it stopped turning and I got that AwwScheiss moment. You know tho, if I end up pulling the motor and trans out, that will be ok. Im keeping this truck forever, and I will gladly spend dough on it
To keep it going.
 
Oh yeah, I know there is something jacked up.it stopped turning and I got that AwwScheiss moment. You know tho, if I end up pulling the motor and trans out, that will be ok. Im keeping this truck forever, and I will gladly spend dough on it
To keep it going.
Word
 
It’s a lot easier to pull that head with the engine out!
Maybe try some marvels mystery oil down each cylinder for a day and try a bigger breaker bar and try to get it to rotate. No reason to move forward unless you can get the engine freed up. Are you worried about damaging something? That coolant can real havoc on bearings and piston rings. My guess is rings are stuck or a bearing is corroded and seizing up. It’s possible the timing chain has broken off and some of the plastic is getting caught on the crank timing gear down below.
 
It’s a lot easier to pull that head with the engine out!
Maybe try some marvels mystery oil down each cylinder for a day and try a bigger breaker bar and try to get it to rotate. D to move forward unless you can get the engine freed up. Are you worried about damaging something? That coolant can real havoc on bearings and piston rings. My guess is rings are stuck or a bearing is corroded and seizing up. It’s possible the timing chain has broken off and some of the plastic is getting caught on the crank timing gear down below.
I'm not a lucky man but my 80 I got back in 2017 was hydrolocked pulled tye plugs turned the engine over via the starter blew the water out the cylinders then it sat for a couple years moving it around in my yard was a customer's truck for an ls swap that fell through and ended up buying it from him then pulled the head replacing head gasket put arp studs new water pump / hoses/ radiator/ fan clutch back in 2020 been going strong ever since drove it for a year straight traveling 5 hrs each way from my house to my dad's house after he passed away in2021. I daily it and my 2wd taco.
 
I'm not a lucky man but my 80 I got back in 2017 was hydrolocked pulled tye plugs turned the engine over via the starter blew the water out the cylinders then it sat for a couple years moving it around in my yard was a customer's truck for an ls swap that fell through and ended up buying it from him then pulled the head replacing head gasket put arp studs new water pump / hoses/ radiator/ fan clutch back in 2020 been going strong ever since drove it for a year straight traveling 5 hrs each way from my house to my dad's house after he passed away in2021. I daily it and my 2wd taco.
The gods look down smiling at you!
 
Thanks for the response Wes, I believe I will go the MMO route first and see if I can get it to rotate. Even if it does break free, I still wont know what the bottom end looks like. Good thing I know a guy who can hook me up…..
 

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