You can time it by vacuum gauge, but you probably don't have one of them either. You can time it by ear and Seat of the Pants. If it pings, retard it. If it doesn't ping, advance it.
Engine running rough following spark plug wire replacement.. (2 Viewers)
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You can time it by vacuum gauge, but you probably don't have one of them either. You can time it by ear and Seat of the Pants. If it pings, retard it. If it doesn't ping, advance it.
Cheaper still to by a vac gauge and time it that way........
edit: well I guess pighead beats me in typing speed
edit: well I guess pighead beats me in typing speed
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Or you can spend under $20 and get a basic timing light and do it right.
Neiko #20724L Xenon Automotive Timing Light
Neiko #20724L Xenon Automotive Timing Light
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- #24
UPDATE
Sooooo,
I'm hoping someone can help..
After I set the point gap, I timed the motor by ear and it seemed as though I had it dialed in. Basically, the motor seems to be timed best when I have the distributor all the way forward until it hits the oil filter. This is where it was when I bought it. And it also follows what I've read about advancing the timing until it doesn't advance anymore then reducing slightly and making sure the engine starts without the starter winding too fast. I did this and it ran great. I've driven it a couple days in a row and have been happy with it.
Today I went for a drive and I'm having problems now. Nothing has been changed since the timing was set by ear and it was running well.. I start it with the choke knob out. When I push it all the way in, it idles nicely. All normal so far.. The new thing is when I start to give it gas it starts to sputter and choke. To the point where it will just die if I start to actually put it in gear and drive. I let it run for awhile, same deal. The only way I can get the car to actually move is to pull the choke out a little bit (maybe 1/3 to 1/2) and give it quite a bit of gas. It idles quite badly with the choke in this position and the power is very weak. But it does move. It sounds to me like it's misfiring and smells like it's running rich when I drive it like this. Obviously it's not at all ideal. But with the choke in the normal (in) position I can't give it any gas without killing the motor.
I'm hoping someone knows what I'm talking about here..
Thanks!
Sooooo,
I'm hoping someone can help..
After I set the point gap, I timed the motor by ear and it seemed as though I had it dialed in. Basically, the motor seems to be timed best when I have the distributor all the way forward until it hits the oil filter. This is where it was when I bought it. And it also follows what I've read about advancing the timing until it doesn't advance anymore then reducing slightly and making sure the engine starts without the starter winding too fast. I did this and it ran great. I've driven it a couple days in a row and have been happy with it.
Today I went for a drive and I'm having problems now. Nothing has been changed since the timing was set by ear and it was running well.. I start it with the choke knob out. When I push it all the way in, it idles nicely. All normal so far.. The new thing is when I start to give it gas it starts to sputter and choke. To the point where it will just die if I start to actually put it in gear and drive. I let it run for awhile, same deal. The only way I can get the car to actually move is to pull the choke out a little bit (maybe 1/3 to 1/2) and give it quite a bit of gas. It idles quite badly with the choke in this position and the power is very weak. But it does move. It sounds to me like it's misfiring and smells like it's running rich when I drive it like this. Obviously it's not at all ideal. But with the choke in the normal (in) position I can't give it any gas without killing the motor.
I'm hoping someone knows what I'm talking about here..
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #26
Well, maybe it was my choke technique
2 days since my last experience, I started it up this morning and it runs just fine. Is it possible to "flood the motor" by running with the choke open too long? When it didn't run the other day I started with choke on and very slowly worked it closed. Since it didn't run well with choke off, I ran it for a minute or so with the choke at 50%. I'm wondering if this flooded the carb? Today I started with the choke open full and pushed it closed after about 8 seconds, with no in between. Just fully closed and it ran great..
2 days since my last experience, I started it up this morning and it runs just fine. Is it possible to "flood the motor" by running with the choke open too long? When it didn't run the other day I started with choke on and very slowly worked it closed. Since it didn't run well with choke off, I ran it for a minute or so with the choke at 50%. I'm wondering if this flooded the carb? Today I started with the choke open full and pushed it closed after about 8 seconds, with no in between. Just fully closed and it ran great..
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
choke knob in = choke open
choke knob pulled out = choke closed
when starting close choke (pull knob out)...once running you need to open the choke (push knob in)about 1/2 way...when the engine is warm...choke should be fully open (knob all way in)
when you say fully closed...is that the knob in or knob out? is that the choke knob or choke itself your talking about
choke knob pulled out = choke closed
when starting close choke (pull knob out)...once running you need to open the choke (push knob in)about 1/2 way...when the engine is warm...choke should be fully open (knob all way in)
when you say fully closed...is that the knob in or knob out? is that the choke knob or choke itself your talking about
- Thread starter
- #28
Thank you.
My terminology was backward. So everything I said above about the choke "open" or "closed" is the opposite. And I've always referred to the choke knob.
So is there a possibility to flood or make the engine run bad if you sit too long with the choke at 1/2 if you don't need to? I still don't know what caused my problem. That was the only thing different - I had to run it much longer than normal at 1/2 choke.
Also, after reading the scan of the manual above, I realize that I don't normally hold in the clutch or give the gas 1 pump before I start the engine. Are these things very important to do if the motor starts without doing them?
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
every truck has its own method of starting...if it works go for it
consider the above manual a baseline to starting the truck
if you run long with the choke at 1/2 it may foul the plugs....or just get sootier
if your NEEDING to run with the choke at half to run properly...you may have a carb or other problem
consider the above manual a baseline to starting the truck
if you run long with the choke at 1/2 it may foul the plugs....or just get sootier
if your NEEDING to run with the choke at half to run properly...you may have a carb or other problem
