Engine Rebuilding options for S/C
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #682
It was a new one rebuilt by LT a few years ago. It had 12k CST at the time. I'd like to try TOOLS' suggestions of 125deg and using 25k CST. I suppose it could be rebuilt.
as long as you're in there might as well check front main seal and oil pump cover gasket, much easier to do with the extra room.
as long as you're in there might as well check front main seal and oil pump cover gasket, much easier to do with the extra room.
- Thread starter
- #686
It's a complete rebuild with about 20k miles on it. If I have to replace these seals Id be pissed.
oh lol ya i woukd be too then!
Goood choice. Great products and great people to do business with.
I have had very good luck with Ron Davis in the past, I ran a RD radiator in my 55, and Supra. But when I tried to get one for my 80 when I did my rebuild they missed their promised deadline twice, well over 6 weeks, I ended up just going OEM.
Those were not replaced as part of your "complete rebuild"?
- Thread starter
- #692
Yes they were but these are low dollar, low effort items since all that room opens up.
Just to clarify since the search function is on the fritz, the 3FE 91-92 fan blade assembly will work with the stock 96 aluminum radiator, shroud, and fan clutch? I need all the help I can get now that I am towing a trailer.
- Thread starter
- #695
Just got off the phone with Dennis from Ron Davis. They do not have the radiator in stock but with their current work load they are looking at 2-3 weeks. According to them, and the rest here on mud, the radiator is 100% bolt in with all the needed ports for the TB and the trans cooler lines. The stock radiator is a single row of 1.25" tubing. The Ron David radiator is two rows of 1" tubing. They did recommend having ONLY the outside of the radiator anodized to eliminate galvanization. He said most of their hot rodders do exactly that so I think I will be following suit. He also was interested in making up a replacement coolant overflow tank so I'm considering that now 
Total cost for the radiator is $950. I can get anodizing for free. The overflow tank will be a couple hundred I'm sure. We'll see.
Total cost for the radiator is $950. I can get anodizing for free. The overflow tank will be a couple hundred I'm sure. We'll see.
Does the 3FE fan make a difference?
I'm running the stock TRD SC fan and upgraded the fluid in my fan clutch.
It does pull in more air, but waiting for a really hot day to see if there is improvement.
I have the blue clutch but luckily have the orig clutch that is much stronger on the inside.
Swapped out the
I'm running the stock TRD SC fan and upgraded the fluid in my fan clutch.
It does pull in more air, but waiting for a really hot day to see if there is improvement.
I have the blue clutch but luckily have the orig clutch that is much stronger on the inside.
Swapped out the
- Thread starter
- #697
I never ran the TRD fan so I can't compare to that. But I did have a different SC fan and the difference between that and the 3FE was pretty big. You can hear the difference and there is extra ribbing on the fan that stiffens up the blades.
- Thread starter
- #699
Yeah I'd rather spend the extra money and get something not made in China. I'm sure its fine, as many have reported, but not in my truck.
Why go aluminum?
The stock radiator is a high efficiency 3-row w/<3/8" tube spacing and 14 fins/inch. Unless the physical size is changed cooling will not improve with AL. Bolt-in a copper Koyo and be done with it.
