Engine overhaul

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

OP by the time you need a new 4.7 you will be able to buy a 200 series for cheap. :clap:

I along with many others have run extended OCI's on 100's for years (10+) with great results. Feel free to do a search on Mud for several Blackstone reports and look on BITOG for Toyota 4.7 OCI and UOA reviews. It is easier on oil than just about any other engine Toyota has, new 5.7 included. I range from 12,000-17,000mi between changes on M1 and an M1 filter and have no oil consumption and good looking UOA's. Before I set my heart on it I would at a minimum have a UOA done after a 12,000mi stint just so you can baseline your particular engine.
 
TXLX100 said:
The molecular structure of synthetic oil is uniform, not smaller.... Not that the size of a molecule is relevant to the space between a piston and the cylinder.

Multi-viscosity oil is available in conventional and synthetic. Don't get me wrong, synthetic is a more consistent product and may perform better in smaller tolerances, but c'mon.... If you use the proper viscosity oil, there is no problem using synthetic in an engine that is rated for conventional. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

You can use it , but I will stick with convectional. I talked to 3 mechanistic and one Toyota dear mechanic , they all in one accord told me to use convectional and do not switch to a synthetic thay say it is expensive and this rig LC 2001 not require . They also say if I real want to do synthetic than need engine machine flush which is bad for the engine , then go with blend, then flush again and then full synthetic and once you are on synthetic you can't go back to organic oil, but I had 1994 Toyota Celica with 300K miles I was using all type of oils and it is all the same . but what I notice on Celica , when running full synthetic oil - engine sips very small leaks and consume oil 1 q every 3000 miles going back to convectional all back to normal you see engine build tolerance is important.
 
tabraha said:
OP by the time you need a new 4.7 you will be able to buy a 200 series for cheap. :clap:

I along with many others have run extended OCI's on 100's for years (10+) with great results. Feel free to do a search on Mud for several Blackstone reports and look on BITOG for Toyota 4.7 OCI and UOA reviews. It is easier on oil than just about any other engine Toyota has, new 5.7 included. I range from 12,000-17,000mi between changes on M1 and an M1 filter and have no oil consumption and good looking UOA's. Before I set my heart on it I would at a minimum have a UOA done after a 12,000mi stint just so you can baseline your particular engine.
Click to expand...
no, please do not BS for something that you do not know. I have LC 200 that takes W0-20 full synthetic and I have to change every 5,000 on the dot, the oil is very, very dark and used-up . 12,000-17,000mi between changes you made it up.
 
Oil changes are cheap insurance and give us a reason to get under the hood. Why push it? Do we think we know something Toyota doesn't? 100+ PhD Toyota powertrain engineers would tell you you don't.
 
skhochay said:
no, please do not BS for something that you do not know. I have LC 200 that takes W0-20 full synthetic and I have to change every 5,000 on the dot, the oil is very, very dark and used-up . 12,000-17,000mi between changes you made it up.
Click to expand...

You should take your own advice. You're making your position on things you think and have heard.
Tbahara position is based on science and lab data.

Fine, you change the oil in your 200 every 5k miles. I believe on most year models, the recommended interval is 10k on synthetic. Have you tested your oil, or did your mechanic stick his finger in it and "yep, it's bad"?

I challenge you to provide some hard evidence synthetic oil in a modern engine rated for conventional will cause a failure or any issue at all.
 
stonepa said:
Oil changes are cheap insurance and give us a reason to get under the hood. Why push it? Do we think we know something Toyota doesn't? 100+ PhD Toyota powertrain engineers would tell you you don't.
Click to expand...
Toyota's engineers have a completely different motivation than Toyota vehicle owners. Just sayin'... We should be looking for that balance between no negative impact to reliability/longevity, and cost. Remember, Blackstone is in business to get you to keep sending your samples back and back and back and back and back for more analysis, too. They are the chiropractors of UOA. Recommended service intervals are clearly skewed to one end of that scale to protect the manufacturer against liability and you against premature failure, with minimal regard to cost (what the market will bear). Not advocating throwing the maintenance schedule out the window, but it bears an objective look anyway. I think people on this forum have a grossly misconstrued view of how typical people in the US and around the world maintain their vehicles, and very little sense of cost v failure/wear probabilities. But whatever, :meh:, it's your car, maintain it however you want.
 
pegasis0066 said:
15k...

Click to expand...
The drivel in the "comments" section is useless, unsubstantiated, and in some cases flat out wrong. If there was "nothing high enough to call a problem" then why do they recommend lowering your interval? Are your Al, Fe, Cu, and Sn levels high because you're experiencing wear, or simply because your oil interval was longer than the average from which the "should be" numbers are based on? "tad too long" based on what? What's the correlation to when "iron starts affecting the other metals"? Do you really believe that each engine's design and component composition is similar enough to have these generic guidelines? Blackstone analysis is good for some things, but the commentary is strictly an up-sell opportunity, and not based on any engineering or science. <- MHO, anyway...
 
And it's probably not a coincidence that OCIs have grown as many manufacturers have included free standard maintenance with new vehicle purchases. When it's on your nickle it's recommended at 3,500. When it's on theirs is 10,000.
 
OregonLC said:
And it's probably not a coincidence that OCIs have grown as many manufacturers have included free standard maintenance with new vehicle purchases. When it's on your nickle it's recommended at 3,500. When it's on theirs is 10,000.
Click to expand...
bingo, both of which are so obscenely on the left side of the failure curve's tail that OCI interval issues are not gonna show up on the radar.
 
re_guderian said:
it's your car, maintain it however you want.
Click to expand...

^ This

If you want to be sure, have a UOA done. Otherwise, you're just guessing(albeit, educated guessing).

Everyone has their own reasons for what they do as far as maintenance.

I run full synthetic in all of my on-road vehicles. I buy Mobil 1 at Wal-mart and with the cost savings there, as well as doing it myself, I think it's a wash. I change every 5k on both my LC and my Duramax. Do I think it's absolutely necessary? No, but it's easy to remember, and with the cost of a tank of fuel being more than the oil change, I think it's negligible.

It's funny. Some people will throw all kinds of money and parts at their vehicles in the name of preventative maintenance, and some try to do the bare minimum, for whatever reason. I try to land somewhere in the middle.

Truth be told, you could probably run a 25k oil change interval on these things, and they'd STILL make it to 300k before overhaul. <<---OP's original question

I just ordered a Slee rear with several options, how can I even utter a word about cost savings on an oil change.....
 
The only thing I'd add to ^^^ is that the elemental analysis in the UOA report gives a lot of people either a false sense of security and/or urgency, since it never answers the question of "so what?" about the levels. it's great for coolant, water, fuel and viscosity changes, but honestly, you can double your oil change cost with a UOA for little tangible information in terms of increasing engine life.

I've got one pending (UOA) due to a radiator failure in my Avalon (due to motor mount failure) and I want to see what happened to the oil/HG, if anything, but that's the exception, not the rule.
 
I just bought a new to me 2011 LX570. Owners manual recommends oil/filter change every 5k miles. Between 2011 and 2014 Lexus decided to change that to every 10k miles. No changes to the engine just the interval??? Think it's all about marketing. Same oil recommendation 0w20 but if you use 5w20 it's 5k mile interval. Toyota 5w20 is Dino and the 0w20 is synthetic. The only benefit I've found of synthetic over Dino is the increased change interval. If you use the manufactures recommended/rated Dino and change it every 5k miles it will take care of your engine as well as synthetic. I always use the recommended/rated synthetic and change it every 5k miles, because I'm old and very conservative when it comes to caring for my vehicles
 
I've typed up long winded responses with some really good info in them a few times but I think everyone is pretty firmly entrenched even to the point of calling others liars etc. as happened earlier in this thread. So to the tool who said I made stuff up earlier: There are a ton of guys on here that know me and know I'm not a BS artist. I'm no troll. I've been on trails with a lot of guys on this forum and go to my TLCA meetings when I can. Those that have met me know that I have enough experience with Toyotas that when I post up something that I've looked at it pretty hard. I've got 3 4.7's with over half a million miles on them cumulatively. Extended OCI's have worked beautifully for me.
 
tabraha said:
I've typed up long winded responses with some really good info in them a few times but I think everyone is pretty firmly entrenched even to the point of calling others liars etc. as happened earlier in this thread. So to the tool who said I made stuff up earlier: There are a ton of guys on here that know me and know I'm not a BS artist. I'm no troll. I've been on trails with a lot of guys on this forum and go to my TLCA meetings when I can. Those that have met me know that I have enough experience with Toyotas that when I post up something that I've looked at it pretty hard. I've got 3 4.7's with over half a million miles on them cumulatively. Extended OCI's have worked beautifully for me.
Click to expand...

I am also a member of bobistheoilguy and not being a chemist or petroleum engineer can only use logic to come to the same conclusion that you have proven to yourself. I know what you are saying is true. But personally I am compelled to over maintain my vehicles. I have to use synthetic and I have to change it every 5k miles. I use Toyota filters and OEM parts because I believe in Toyota. If it was a Chevy, Ford, etc. I like you would use Mobil1 filters. Example my new to me 200 was alway maintained at the Lexus selling dealer and for its 28k mile life and had Toyota filter and Toyota synthetic 0w20 oil changes done every 5k miles. The Toyota dealer that sold me the 200 did the normal dealer service for used car sales with only 3k miles on the 0w20 synthetic and used Toyota 5w20 oil which is Dino. I know Dino is good for 5k miles but I will be changing it to 0w20 Toyota synthetic and new filter before it has 3k miles on the 5w20 Dino oil. I just can't help myself
 
Last edited:
Nothing wrong with that!
 
TXLX100 said:
You should take your own advice. You're making your position on things you think and have heard.
Tbahara position is based on science and lab data.

Fine, you change the oil in your 200 every 5k miles. I believe on most year models, the recommended interval is 10k on synthetic. Have you tested your oil, or did your mechanic stick his finger in it and "yep, it's bad"?

I challenge you to provide some hard evidence synthetic oil in a modern engine rated for conventional will cause a failure or any issue at all.
Click to expand...
Let me tell you something so you can remember for the rest of your life.
It is recommended to wipe your ass each time you s*** , but you think you are saving on toilet paper you can do every 3rd or 4th time and that cool with me. from the engine warranty and legal view it will look something like this:
. In cause of engine failure you come to Toyota and file for a warranty if you have one, Toyota will ask you to provide the maintenance record from the dealer or you. if you show them that you change oil every 15K miles and not 5K as recommended by Toyota, you can take your lab spec from Pap-and-Mam and you can wipe your a$$ with it - That what Toyota will tell you , because if you do not honer Toyota's recommendations then you are on your own world .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom