Engine mount split, can't remove starter motor

[Rouke]

The rear end of the engine mount is split (see image) and now I can't remove the starter motor to repair it. I've tried but can't even get one of the bolts out. I've tried bending the side of the engine mount back using a clamp but the steel is too thick and strong for my clamp. I've tried hammering using a long piece of timber to reach it, but I can only reach one corner, which is now slightly bent back but not enough to get the starter motor out. Do I have to jack up the engine (13B-T) to remove and fix the mount or does anyone have a better idea?

Rouke

 

[FJBen]

I would get a hoist and lift it up. That starter is a pain in the butt in any circumstance

 

[Rouke]

Thanks for your quick reply. Could you elaborate a bit further why you think "that starter is a pain in the butt in any circumstance"?

 

[jblueridge]

Starter will not want to slip right out.
I got mine out but then could not get it back in after rebuild.
I got angry and cut the sheet metal of the inner fender to get starter back in place.

when I installed new motor mounts I jacked engine up from beneath.
I also pinched/crushed a steel vacuum line that runs around by the firewall.

 

[Rouke]

Thanks. Probably an expensive job if I take it to the garage to fix it? I'll think about it a bit more then.

 

[Rouke]

Starter will not want to slip right out.
I got mine out but then could not get it back in after rebuild.
I got angry and cut the sheet metal of the inner fender to get starter back in place.

when I installed new motor mounts I jacked engine up from beneath.
I also pinched/crushed a steel vacuum line that runs around by the firewall.

Where did you put the jack/supports? Someone told me under the oil pan with a thick board to distribute the weight, but the 13B-T seems quite a heavy engine and I'm concerned that I'd crush the oil pan.

 

[lacalvette]

Hi,
Been there too, if I remember correctly, need to remove the aluminum bell housing / engine bracket.

Edit: this reinforcement support...

 

[jblueridge]

Yes, I put a board under the oil pan and jacked up on that after loosening motor mounts.
I was replacing the transmission's "motor" mount as well so that was loose.
If I had another adult helping i bet i could have rocked the engine from one side to the other to help get the mounts out one at a time.
Instead I jacked until the engine was lifting the body and that's how I crushed the vacuum line.
When I realized about the crushing, I ran a new line and left the crushed one in place.

I bet if I had been able to take video of the close quarters gymnastics needed to get the starter out, I would have been able to reverse the process.
As it was, I got very frustrated that I could not recall the right set of moves and that's when I started cutting sheet metal.

 

[FJBen]

Yeah, that top bolt on that starter is a pain. Easiest way it to use like 2 plus feet of extension and a wobble mount to get to it.
There just isn't a lot of room at all to get that starter in/out.

Personally I would prefer to lift the engine from the top rather than use a jack on the oil pan. You could also loosen those center transmission nuts on that crossmember so you could lift up under the bell housing and the engine to spread the load if using a jack.

The last time I dropped the tranny to replace an input seal I got the starter in instantly on the first try. I've dropped it 3 times so maybe I'm better or maybe I'm just lucky. I'm guessing lucky. I didn't cut any sheetmetal, but I sure was tempted.

 

[Rouke]

Thanks. I've got it jacked up with a piece of high density foam between oil-pan and board to spread the load while avoiding the drain plug. Got two bolts of the engine mount undone. Now thinking of a plan to get other two undone tomorrow. Then I should be able to remove the mount altogether and it should be piece of cake.