Embarassingly simple maintenance questions (1 Viewer)

[Heffenoche]

I’ve never had a problem using a 12 point 24mm Sears socket on any of my fill plugs. I hold the socket and wrench against the plug with one hand and tap on the end of the wrench with a BFH. After a few hits the plug will loosen. Worked for me on three different cruisers.

Another idea is to use and impact driver with the 24mm socket on the end of it.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

I just had a go at using my new sockets on the fill plug. It came right off with the 15/16" socked on the first try with very little force. It's amazing how much easier things are with the proper tools.

The diff fluid looks good inside - plenty full and in good condition. I'll go ahead and warm it up and change for good measure.

I'll give greasing the u-joints another shot later tonight when I've had a chance to pick up a small grease cartridge.

 

[concretejungle]

I wasn't offering to help, just scouting out free beer!

TJK

Go figure.

 

[Kaderabek]

Queen can say what they want (and I know you dig them....), beer is what makes the rockin' world go 'round.

TJK

 

[carolina_cruiser]

u-joint problem?

The changing of the oil in the transfer case went smoothly. The old oil was dirtier than I thought so I'm glad to have that stuff out of there and fresh M1 taking its place.

By cleaning the zerks thoroughly and keeping pressure in the head of the grease gun I was able to get three of the u-joints lubed. After lubing, the annoying whining at >40 mph seems to be significantly diminished.

However, there seems to be something diffferent about the fourth u-joint (closest to the front diff). I looked for the zerk to grease it for a long time and finally concluded that there isn't one. In fact, there seems to be a hole like the zerk is missing. Is it supposed to look like this, or do I have another problem to deal with...

Note: both pics are different angles of the same u joint.

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

I think you are missing one - you should have had to lube 6 points - 3 on each shaft.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

Is this missing zerk something that can be replaced without removing the driveshaft? It looks like a tight fit to access, however the Haynes manual strongly cautions against disassembling the driveshaft due to delicate balancing issues and recommends it be done by a certified tech.

 

[concretejungle]

Carolina, yes you are missing one, wow. I've personally never seen that happen before. Someone else will have to chime in about whether or not to disassemble the drive shaft to install a new zerk or not. I have never taken one apart but would like to learn.

 

[toddslater]

Might be easiest to unbolt the front DS at the flange (4 bolts) drop it down and rotate the ujoint and then install the zerk. To avoid any issues that the Haynes manual is eluding to. All you need to do is mark the flanges so you put it back on the same way. Also, if you ever take your shaft all the way out and seperate the sliding yokes...make sure you mark the yokes as well. That way everthing lines up as it was.

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

I can't recall for sure, but I think that you need to replace more than the zerk - isn't there a small 'box' that the zerk sits in? I have a front shaft at home in my workbench that I can check. You could find out from CDan if it is a part, part of the U-joint, etc. Worst case, I can try and pull the one off my shaft and mail it to you.

Cheers, Hugh

 

[carolina_cruiser]

I can't recall for sure, but I think that you need to replace more than the zerk - isn't there a small 'box' that the zerk sits in? I have a front shaft at home in my workbench that I can check. You could find out from CDan if it is a part, part of the U-joint, etc. Worst case, I can try and pull the one off my shaft and mail it to you.

I'm not sure about the box. The local Toyota dealer is getting me a zerk (part # 90416-06004) hopefully by tomorrow. If you find that more hardware is needed to connect the zerk to the U-joint, please let me know.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

I can't recall for sure, but I think that you need to replace more than the zerk - isn't there a small 'box' that the zerk sits in?

The part just came in today and you were exactly correct about the 'box'. I'm not sure if I'll be able to replace this or if I'll need to go with a new u-joint. I've posted a scan of the part below for those who are trying to picture the part:
(edit: the scan of the 3D part didn't turn out well, but you can probably get an idea of the shape)

 

[whodat]

looks like a crack pipe

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

maybe it juist slips in?

 

[carolina_cruiser]

maybe it juist slips in?

I hope it's that simple. It looks like the old body minus the zerk is still in place. I'll post what I find when I get in there. Right now the boat and outboard occupying the garage getting winterized but the Land Cruiser is next in line.

 

[toddslater]

Hmmm, a pressed in zerk. Whoda thunk it. Granted I've never replaced a zerk in any of my LC's ujoints, although my Gravely seems to abuse the zerks on the outboard deck wheels and they and every zerk I can think of was a screw in type. None the less, if it is indeed a pressed in zerk as it looks to be in the new one in the photo, what you can do to make the insertion easier is put the new zerk in the freezer for 15-20 min then try tapping it in with a drift. If that doesn't work or if you find out that part of the old zerk is busted and still in the ujoint....at that point I'd just say fawk it, mark the shaft and flanges, drop it out and take it to a driveline shop and have them put nice new ujoints in.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

I'm finally getting back to this. As expected, it appears to be impossible to press the zerk in with the driveshaft installed.

In trying to drop the front of the driveshaft for better access, I've only been able to remove two of the four bolts holding it in place. Any tips on getting the remaining two loose? I'm headed out to pick up a breaker bar and 6pt 14mm socket but I'm unsure if I'll have enough leverage without the truck on a lift.

 

[concretejungle]

Don't know how much time you have, but i would PB blast them and let them sit a day. THat stuff is awesome.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

Don't know how much time you have, but i would PB blast them and let them sit a day. THat stuff is awesome.

I saw your reply as I was headed out yesterday and found some PB Blast at Advance Auto. Yes, that stuff works great. Between the PB Blast, a 6 pt 14 mm socket and an 18" breaker bar I was able to get all four off one side. I figured I'd let the other side sit over night to see if it loosens up.

So far, the driveshaft seems reluctant to drop on the front side. Maybe removing the other side will help it along.