Electronic Ignition

[3_puppies]

Any ideas / guidance you can provide regarding rebuilt engine?

without knowing exactly how bad things are internally, worst case is new crank, all new bearings, bored cylinders, cam damage?
depends on who does the work $3000-4000????

if the engine will not turn over, the crank bearings are most likely "welded" to the crank, every rotating piece will most likely need to eeither be replaced or bored over.

 

[doubledeuce]

without knowing exactly how bad things are internally, worst case is new crank, all new bearings, bored cylinders, cam damage?
depends on who does the work $3000-4000????

if the engine will not turn over, the crank bearings are most likely "welded" to the crank, every rotating piece will most likely need to eeither be replaced or bored over.

That makes sense - thanks.

 

[Dudleyfj40]

Any word on your Engine?

 

[doubledeuce]

Any word on your Engine?

I've been dealing with this now for 5+ months and had to involve my lawyer. I found a good used crankshaft that hadn't been turned. The motor had been completely rebuilt 1,900 miles ago and was not willing to try and turn again. Engine is currently being rebuilt (new pistons, rings, rod bearings, main bearings, cam bearings, cam & lifter kit, timing set, valve springs).

The local repair shop was not willing to help with any of the costs and said I was on my own - they didn't do anything wrong. I went and purchased exact same electronic ignition and have a friend with a 72 FJ. Installed it on his (correctly) and it works without issue. The issue is they did not install correctly. Owner said "that's now how this works, son."

I double checked... I'm not related to the owner but I am about to be his Daddy.

 

[doubledeuce]

I've stayed offline on this due to lawyer/court now handling. Engine rebuilder said it should be finished in a couple weeks.

 

[doubledeuce]

That makes sense - thanks.

You were correct. Ended up locating a good crank and engine builder is currently in complete rebuild.

 

[doubledeuce]

Sure sorry to hear about that. A pic of your distributor end would be nice to see.
Like this.

View attachment 2015223

 

[Steamer]

It appears that your distributor has adjustable depth. Stock dizzys, to the best of my knowledge, have a fixed depth. Such as the stock dizzy that came on my 74 F.5. Also fixed depth on the replacement non-USA dizzy (pictured) and fixed depth on my “Performance Distributors” DUI as well. With a fixed depth you know right away if it is not fully inserted. If that clamp on yours hasn’t moved since your mechanic installed it, you could measure it to compare. It would tell you if it engaged the oil pump or not. The measurement that I can read is 4-27/32”. Others may be able to confirm this measurement.

Wow! What a hassle.

 

[Toyo_Judson]

I double checked... I'm not related to the owner but I am about to be his Daddy.

I hope you get all of your parts, repair costs and lawyer fees out of this cork-socket! A stand up shop and owner would have done the right thing. Cruisers bring happiness... Mostly.

 

[middlecalf]

I didn’t see anything about this but how do you have “good oil pressure” as stated in the original post if the dizzy isn’t seated (and therefore oil pump isn’t turning )?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I’m very sorry for your problems!!

I had never heard of Max HEI, but I installed a DUI, from performancedistributors.com.

I’d like to mention a few thoughts:

1. $129 for Max HEI and $349 for DUI is a significant difference and is concerning, from a quality/quality control perspective.

2. When DUI first became available for FJ40s, Davis Unified Ignition used a gear for the Chevy straight six. They overlooked the fact that the Toyota I6 requires a slightly different gear. They learned of their oversight when customers started telling them that their DUI had destroyed their engine... and demanding Davis pay for repairs. I don’t know the outcome of recovering damages, only that Davis corrected their error... I learned this thru MUD research and made sure what I bought was the correct gear. Here’s DUI’s black cap:

TOYOTA Davis Unified Ignition 80820BK Davis Unified Ignition Toyota Street/Strip D.U.I. Distributors | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Davis Unified Ignition Toyota Street/Strip D.U.I. Distributors with qualifying orders of $125. Shop Distributors at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

3. I looked at Maxx HEI and see four 88641 part numbers... the only difference I can see is cap color: B(lue), C(Lear), (blac)K and R(ed).

4. I agree that you appear to have an installation error and that the installer should make you whole. But, it might behoove you to compare the HEI gear to the old OEM dissy gear... just so you are certain it’s not a Maxx HEI error instead... e.g. perhaps they mislabeled your HEI... or, mounted the wrong gear.

Good luck regardless!!


BTW My DUI install did not require use of a spacer.

 

[Steamer]

The end of your dizzy shaft does not appeared sheared off like your mechanic suggested. But comparing it to your second dizzy would confirm that. I do think I see some extra wear at the very tip about 1/16" of it.
I'm thinking, or just guessing, that maybe,,, the dizzy was inserted in as far as it would go but not into the oil pump slot. Then the clamp was tightened around the dizzy shaft but the clamp wasn't absolutely down hard to the block. Then when the clamp was bolted down tight to the block, the dizzy shaft had pressure pushing down on the pump but not inserted into it. When the engine was cranked, the dizzy shaft entered the pump slot just a tad and just enough to turn the pump producing oil pressure. The slight tip into the pump only lasted so long and with a little bit of wear finally worked free of the pump slot and no more oil pressure.
Just a theory but it could explain having oil pressure for a little while.

 

[doubledeuce]

The end of your dizzy shaft does not appeared sheared off like your mechanic suggested. But comparing it to your second dizzy would confirm that. I do think I see some extra wear at the very tip about 1/16" of it.
I'm thinking, or just guessing, that maybe,,, the dizzy was inserted in as far as it would go but not into the oil pump slot. Then the clamp was tightened around the dizzy shaft but the clamp wasn't absolutely down hard to the block. Then when the clamp was bolted down tight to the block, the dizzy shaft had pressure pushing down on the pump but not inserted into it. When the engine was cranked, the dizzy shaft entered the pump slot just a tad and just enough to turn the pump producing oil pressure. The slight tip into the pump only lasted so long and with a little bit of wear finally worked free of the pump slot and no more oil pressure.
Just a theory but it could explain having oil pressure for a little while.

That exactly what I suspect happened.