Electrical tips tricks (1 Viewer)

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May 31, 2010
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Hello Mudders,

Just wanted to get some ideas on any of you who have good tips, tricks and maybe pics on good wiring techniques you have done in the past on how to solder, splice, tap into existing wires or start from scratch wiring etc..

I am planning on putting lights (extra fog/driving, reverse, roof, under carriage, engine bay lights) all over my 80 and need your input if I can.

Thanks in advance fellow mudders!

Best forum ever:beer:
 
If splicing/soldering wires in a harness, I stagger them so that the loom doesn't bulge and I can get a protective sleeve on.
 
I've recently finished wiring up my inverter and dual batteries and here some tips that may be useful:

1. Plan everything in advance. Have all materials in hand before starting.
2. Build in future growth potential.
3. Use professional wire strippers.
4. Solder and heat shrink all connections.
5. I used butt connectors in many instances where I had to splice in to existing wires.
6. I avoided running wires to the battery and the use of in-line fuses (except for my CB). For my driving lights, OBA compressor (to be installed), dash winch control (switch installed but no winch installed yet) I grabbed a Toyota fuse block and sealed relay from the wreckers. The fuse block is mounted directly to my battery post and the relay is mounted next to my ABS (See link below). In the rear above my inverter I have a fuse block hot glued to the PS rear interior panel. It has room for up to six circuits, and I have used three already. Two are used for my 12VDC Toyota receptacles, and one for a map light (to be installed).
7. I covered most wires with the corrugated plastic conduit.
8. I used Deutsch sealed connectors.
9. For the large gauge wires (1/0 etc) I used a solder paste, and propane torch (yellow oxy cylinder) to solder the lugs.

Hope this helps:cheers:.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/284779-aux-fuse-holder-relays.html
 
IMO, the most important thing is to have the correct tools for the job. Throw the Radio Snack stuff in the trash.
I use only Xcelite hand tools, Weller soldering irons with a variety of tips; a real heat gun designed for heat shrink applications; Alpha heat shrink; Belden wire and cable; 3M electrical tape. A few small vises make quick work of holding wires in place.

Spend lots of time practicing proper solder technique before coming close to your truck. Tin all wires first. Practice practice practice.
 
x2 on the 3M Super 33+ electrical tape. Every time i come a cross a roll of "welfare tape" I just toss it in the trash. Get the adhesive lined heat shrink too, I know we$t marine sells it.

I found this Auxillary fuse and relay box while on WAGONGEAR's website the other day. Looks pretty slick, $100 might save you a lot of trouble in the end:cheers:
 
I've found that a pair of the 'helping hands' from HarborFreight are worth their weight in gold when soldering stuff together. I use the little gator clips to hold each of the wires to be soldered.

Helping Hands - Assisted Living - General Merch

image_181.jpg


The base is weighted, and with the ball & socket design of the joints, you can set it just about anywhere to help hold wires.
 
^I like that gismo. I can recall many a time trying to solder and wondering where my third hand was....
 
............ Tin all wires first.......

This is good advice for connections that you solder. But for crimp type terminal lugs and stranded wire, the wire must be stripped only.
This also goes for any connection that uses any device to clamp the wire for a connection. Yes, tinning the wires keeps them neat looking and minimizes loose strands, but it also makes the wire more brittle (less flexible). In a proper crimped connection, you re-dress the strands after stripping to get the original twist back into the wire. And hopefully you're using sharp wire cutters. The wire must be able to deform as you crimp the lug to get maximum contact with the conducting part of the lug. The industry uses calibrated crimpers for each size lug, that crimps both the conductor and insulation. I have seen some techs that will solder a connection that has been crimped, thinking it will add strength and longevity to it, but it won't. The properly crimped connection is a very reliable method. It's usually someone in a hurry or inexperienced that mucks up this method. And yes, the combination "wire cutter, stripper & crimper" is the implement of destruction when used by inexperienced people:

First off, the cutter part is usually dull.

Secondly, the stripper part will easily nick and cut off strands, handicapping your connection.

And third, the crimping part will allow either not crimping tight enough or "Arnold Schwarzenegger" to mangle the lug. Not to mention the usually over-looked insulation crimp that is necessary for a strong connection.
 
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X2 "And yes, the combination "wire cutter, stripper & crimper" is the implement of destruction when used by inexperienced people".

I personally use separate tools for cutting, stripping and crimping, all made by Klein Tools, best I've found.

I have used marine heat strink terminals for years because after properly stripping the wire, crimping correctly you can then heat strink the wire to add support to the terminal and wire insulation plus a higher level of moisture resistance. Makes for a very good connection and clean looking.
 
X3 - A quality crimp will perform just as well as a soldered connection in most situations. Take a look at the connections on any car, truck, airplane, etc and you will find most of the wires have crimped terminations.

The problem is quality crimping tools are expensive. One of the better crimp tools for red and blue lugs, the AMP 59250, will cost over $1000 new. Wire strippers on the other hand are relatively inexpensive. A decent Ideal Stripmaster can be had for less than $50. Quality lugs and terminal aren't cheap either.
 
X2 "And yes, the combination "wire cutter, stripper & crimper" is the implement of destruction when used by inexperienced people".

I personally use separate tools for cutting, stripping and crimping, all made by Klein Tools, best I've found.

+1 for the Klein crimper - I personally like the one they sell that has a little cutter tip with a crimper intended for non-insulated terminals, but I use that crimp for all my connecters, despite it poking a hole through the insulation.
It crimps a terminal to the point you really gotta pull to rip a connecter off the wire its' crimped to.
 
Just like always, you can count on our fellow mudders for amazing help.

Appreciate all who gave up their tricks and tips.

Learned so much from everybodys input and even new tools to use so if you have any more advice keep it coming.

Ty Mudders!
 

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