Electrical Issues (Radio/Clock/AC) (1 Viewer)

[Tiamat]

Hi All,

Running into an issue with some electrical gremlins and was wondering if anyone had had similar issues. I've parsed the other discussions on this, but none seem to match up exactly (although a 80 series thread was close) When I was driving today using radio and A/C and suddenly both went out along with the clock. It was out of the blue, no warning. After I drove home, I've determined the following:

What works:

1. Engine starts and runs, no issues
2. All gauges work as intended
3. Antenna
4. Cigarette Lighter
5. Front and back wipers
6. Headlights
7. Reverse lights
8. Turn Signals front and back

What doesn't work

1. Radio
2. Clock
3. Front and Back Dome light
4. Gauge lights, to include shifter lever light - basically a black cockpit
5. Brake lights
6. Side Marker Lights

What I've attempted:

1. Tested/Replaced all fuses on drivers side panel, all are good. (changed out the ones for cig, and dome to be on safe side)
2. Fusible links: all have continuity (& 12VDC) running through them except the small black one. Could this really be the issue? I'm not sure if this is a measurement error on my part though, because I believe it shouldn't be running at all if this one is bad, correct me if I'm wrong.

Has anyone seen the clock / dome light / or any of these other things the circuits go through actually go bad? Trying to get the low hanging fruit before I start going deeper.

 

[Beams37]

I don't have the same problems, but my stereo continually cuts out. I assume its a bad ground or some kind of issue with the amount of actual power getting into the system. Will be following along.

 

[Hammer45]

Do you have the FSM? It has those wiring diagrams in the back that maybe you could trace all of your don’t works back to a common source. Notice how electrical issues don’t get much traction here on mud? They suck and are so difficult to find. Hopefully someone will drop in here with more suggestions. Since you have a number of things out it seems like that would be more of a clue to trace on the schematics.

 

[Beams37]

Started reading stuff online and everything said to check the alternator. I would use a multi-meter and see if your alternator is under or over charging.

 

[Tiamat]

So this will sound like a series of unfortunate events, but bear with me...

I also noticed there was a slight squeal at low speeds when turning. At first I thought it was just because of the surface, but then I realized that the alternator and power steering were on the same belt. Checking under the hood, I saw that the screw for the support piece to the airpump/alternator had backed out and was hanging. The tensioning bolt on the alternator also had the small piece fall off (@ToyotaMatt I ordered one from you.). The alternator was not charging at all. Luckily I had not drove it much since this event.

The last person to put the white wire on the alternator had its orientation just enough to bump the heat shield when this happened. It then shorted out against it blowing the fusible link. My test was correct, I just misread which link I checked. I ordered supplies to repair the fusible link and just tested this morning. Everything works.

My plan is to replace all the links with new fusible wire on a power distribution bar for simplicity. I also eventually plan on running a 8 gauge or lower wire directly from the alternator to the battery and alternator to ground fused to provide a bypass the old wiring.

@Beams37 - Your suggestion was spot on. I had already started looking at the FSM wiring when I realized the mistake I made on misreading the fusible link. All the dead items were down the chain of the alternator fusible link wire. Interestingly enough, it hits a relay before the tail fuse, and once I realized I had no voltage at the relay, I understood the link was bad.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

So this will sound like a series of unfortunate events, but bear with me...

I also noticed there was a slight squeal at low speeds when turning. At first I thought it was just because of the surface, but then I realized that the alternator and power steering were on the same belt. Checking under the hood, I saw that the screw for the support piece to the airpump/alternator had backed out and was hanging. The tensioning bolt on the alternator also had the small piece fall off (@ToyotaMatt I ordered one from you.). The alternator was not charging at all. Luckily I had not drove it much since this event.

The last person to put the white wire on the alternator had its orientation just enough to bump the heat shield when this happened. It then shorted out against it blowing the fusible link. My test was correct, I just misread which link I checked. I ordered supplies to repair the fusible link and just tested this morning. Everything works.

My plan is to replace all the links with new fusible wire on a power distribution bar for simplicity. I also eventually plan on running a 8 gauge or lower wire directly from the alternator to the battery and alternator to ground fused to provide a bypass the old wiring.

@Beams37 - Your suggestion was spot on. I had already started looking at the FSM wiring when I realized the mistake I made on misreading the fusible link. All the dead items were down the chain of the alternator fusible link wire. Interestingly enough, it hits a relay before the tail fuse, and once I realized I had no voltage at the relay, I understood the link was bad.

i would also add a 3pc set of the Correct OEM TOYOTA Mitsubishi BANDO COGGED Drive Belts to your List , there a Important parts topic NOT to overlook here .....fyi

7610B	BELT, V(FOR AIR PUMP)
99343-11120		1
44310A	BELT, V(FOR VANE PUMP) ALSO ALTERNATOR
99343-11570		1
88310A	BELT, V (COOLER COMPRESSOR TO CRANKSHAFT PULLEY), NO.1
99332-11250	L=1250	1