Electrical Glue

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Tapage

Tapage

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Soldering not welding.
The difference is welding joins two pieces of molten metal,
soldering and brazing join two pieces of metal by forming an alloy bond.


As far as the electrical glue goes I'd save your money and spend it on a GOOD crimping tool and a selection of crimp connectors.

Stranded wire should always be joined with crimp connection, never soldered. We use stranded wire because it can flex, if you fill the voids in the wire with solder it no longer flexes and can break due to metal fatigue. The exception is connecting stranded wire to circuit boards, these connections should have a strain relief with a loop of wire between the soldered connection and the strain relief.

Stranded wire joined with a proper crimp connect will be much more reliable than a soldered connection. Feel free to research this, JEDC, JPL and NASA all agree.
 
My Land Cruiser spends very little time in outer space and only rarely does it see speeds in excess of the sound barrier.
It spends the majority of its time here on earth in a humid and corrosive environment. For connections that are exposed to the elements I prefer a good clean solder joint. The majority of intermittent electrical connections on my truck have been due to factory crimp connections.

Over the years I have gone through almost every connector on every harness. The "indoor" connections are almost always in good shape after 20+ years. The "outdoor" connections can become pretty nasty.

There is absolutely the possibility of metal fatigue. You can't get around that. But properly secured wires are part of the game. Or at least they should be.
 
my crimping tool ..

7537179602p


which it's your guys recommendation if you need to join 2 10 AWG cables in one 10 AWG cable .. ( coming from 2 electric fans into one fan controller )
 
Stay with good quality crimps as well..Sta-Kon and the such...if you need a care package pm me your addy, I have plenty you can try..;)

Nothing will beat soldering and heat shink in the long run...although many mechanically fastened joints last long too.
 
I've installed quite a bit of home and auto electronics in my day and I have to date never soldered, crimped or glued any wires, with the exception of INSIDE a piece of electronics (radios, CB's, amps, microphones, and guitars) or onto a speaker terminal. I just twisted them together with some electrical tape on top, and more recently liquid tape or shrink tubing.
 
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jonheld said:
My Land Cruiser spends very little time in outer space and only rarely does it see speeds in excess of the sound barrier.
It spends the majority of its time here on earth in a humid and corrosive environment. For connections that are exposed to the elements I prefer a good clean solder joint. The majority of intermittent electrical connections on my truck have been due to factory crimp connections.

Over the years I have gone through almost every connector on every harness. The "indoor" connections are almost always in good shape after 20+ years. The "outdoor" connections can become pretty nasty.

There is absolutely the possibility of metal fatigue. You can't get around that. But properly secured wires are part of the game. Or at least they should be.
Click to expand...
Perhaps after 20 years the technology of crimp connection has improved, just throwing that out there for your consideration. ;) There is probably a reason you will NEVER see a stranded wire solder connection in any commercial, military, aircraft, or aerospace application.

All of the agencies I mention require that systems withstand life testing in corrosive environments, vibration testing, accelerated life test and a battery of other environmental testing that make anything we do with our cruisers here on earth look like a trip to the mall.

In addition to metal fatigue soldering introduces flux into the joint. Flux is inherently corrosive, it's whole purpose is to remove oxides from the metal so the solder can form an alloy bond. Any flux that is not activated during the soldering process cannot be removed from an insulated stranded wire. I doubt anyone would argue that adding a corrosive material to an electrical connection would make it more reliable.
 
JCruse said:
I've installed quite a bit of home and auto electronics in my day and I have to date never soldered, crimped or glued any wires, with the exception of INSIDE a piece of electronics (radios, CB's, amps, microphones, and guitars) or onto a speaker terminal. I just twisted them together with some electrical tape on top, and more recently liquid tape or shrink tubing.
Click to expand...

I think I've fixed a lot of your work on the trail.
 
JCruse said:
I've installed quite a bit of home and auto electronics in my day and I have to date never soldered, crimped or glued any wires, with the exception of INSIDE a piece of electronics (radios, CB's, amps, microphones, and guitars) or onto a speaker terminal. I just twisted them together with some electrical tape on top, and more recently liquid tape or shrink tubing.
Click to expand...

Were you one of the design engineers at British Leyland or Lucas Electrics years ago?

Twisting wires together and then hiding your 'handiwork' with electrical tape or liquid tape or shrink tubing... Just wonderful :)

cheers,
george.
 
Iceman25th said:
Lucas Electrics or as we former Triumph owners know them, "Lords of Darkness"
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or.... the only thing Lucas ever made that didn't suck was a vacuum cleaner...

cheers,
george.
 
george_tlc said:
or.... the only thing Lucas ever made that didn't suck was a vacuum cleaner...

cheers,
george.
Click to expand...

Hey, I used to have a Triumph TR4A and Lucas Electrics got me to the end of the block just fine!
 
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