egr tube blowout turns ugly & related idle issues

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Union with hoses attached pcv attachment in foreground

 

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removed EGR stuff and closeup of where it blew out. Threads car boned up and corroded

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Before and after- see two rubber caps I put on hard line that would have to egr modul

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Not sure if plugs are correct, feedback would be great

 

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The valves were adjusted less than 1000 miles ago, but I've been wondering about their condition since the area got so hot. I will check it this weekend.

So the valves have been adjust recently, 1000 miles ago, before the incident with the j-pipe failing.

If you have alot of confidence that they were adjusted correctly, then you might consider leaving it.
Where they adjusted by a professional mechanic?
The reason I suggested that you adjust them is, assuming you have fixed all vac leaks, it would be the next step to check off the list - working back to the carb and ignition timing.

Your call. If you want to convince yourself that they are working properly, then either put the feeler gauge on them and see if they are within spec. If not, if they are way too tight or loose, and you are sure that you are taking a good measurement, then adjust them.

 

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I doubled checked all the vac routing but do need to confirm components works right. I did that check of all the emissions components 5 years ago but should do it again to be sure.

OK. Just make sure that the vac hoses connecting to the carb are for sure routed correctly.

The idea behind making sure the emissions components are working it that you want to be convinced that the performance issue you are seeing in the truck (sluggish acceleration, questionable idle) is not related to one of these emissions components.
Crossing them off the list as potential problems and working back to the carb and ignition.

 

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PCV line is routed almost as you describe but I'm not remembering it going right into the intake manifold directly but anyway it does tie to the intake manifold. There isn't a mod there for the egr. The plate I was referring to is a plate to cover the hole in the exhaust downpipe, the item bought from cruiser outfitters was the manifold gasket.

So, from the pics you posted and from what you have told me, you have removed:
the EGR valve
The EGR cooler
The EGR j-pipe

What did you do with the EGR modulator? Are those vac lines plugged?
EDIT: Sorry, just saw your picture. I'll check and see where those lines go.

After you removed the EGR j-pipe (pipe that attaches the EGR cooler to the exhaust manifold - see label "A" on image below), you put a gasket and cover plate (see label "F" on other image below) over the hole in the exhaust manifold, right?
If you didn't put a gasket there, there is probably an exhaust leak.

You removed the EGR valve, but did you block off the pipe (see label "D" in the image below) that it connects to?

The PCV hose that you replace connects to pipe labeled "B" (see image below).
That pipe is part of an assemble that is held onto the intake manifold (with a gasket) at label "C" on the image below. If you left that assembly on the intake manifold, without plugging pipe labeled "D", then you will have a vac leak.

You can remove that assembly and purchase a plate labeled "E" from Man-a-Fre (or maybe Cruiser Outfitters or Specter Off Road or someone else has such a plate - make sure that you can either reuse the old pipe fitting or get the proper pipe that goes on this new plate). If you remove the plug in this Man-a-Fre you should be able to attach a pipe and then the hose coming from the PCV.
This will completely eliminate the pipe that connects to the EGR valve.

Or, if you want to reintall the EGR system, you can buy a stainless steel j-pipe from SOR:
http://www.sor.com/cat047.sor

If you are planning on doing a full desmog, then leave the EGR system off, but make sure there are no leaks from "A" (exhaust) and "C" (vac) and "D" (vac).

If you are going to keep the truck fully smogged, then get the j-pipe and appropriate nuts, bolts, washers and gaskets and put the EGR stuff back on.

Which ever way you go will determine what adjustments you are probably going to have to make in order to get the performance back in the truck.

 

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The plate I was referring to is a plate to cover the hole in the exhaust downpipe, the item bought from cruiser outfitters was the manifold gasket.

I think you meant to say "j-pipe" here, not "exhaust downpipe". The "exhaust downpipe" is commonly used to refer to the pipe that connects at the bottom of the exhaust manifold and connects the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter. If you block that off, bad things will happen because there will be nowhere for the exhaust in the cylinders to go.

 

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I sprayed a lot more carb cleaner around the metal union that goes into the intake manifold and it still revved up the engine, it just wanted more juice. I removed it and cleaned up the threads but didn't have time to reinstall. I might just plug the hole with a threaded plug with sealer to take the brake and ac idle uo out of the circuit just while I continue to diagnose. I haven't decided yet if it's worth doing or just sealing the union threads really well this time. The union itself doesn't leak. The accordion is for reducing heat to the attached tubing, it's a radiator not an accordian!

Check to see if the intake manifold has a hairline crack around where that union screws in. I'm wondering if the vac measurements change when the engine is warm/cold because a crack is opening/closing a little with the heat.
If not, when you reinstall it, I don't think it will hurt to put a very thing coat around the threads before screwing it back in. Only issue might be if gasoline reacts with the sealant and eat it away over time, but since you already used it on the intake/exhaust manifold, guess it can't hurt here

Glad to know is it a radiator, not an accordion! Would be interesting to find musical instruments somewhere on the engine, but I guess you never know what kind of modifications previous owners will try. Guess that's why we have to go over these things methodically in order to rule stuff out...

 

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One other thing is while I'm in the engine bay it is really exhausty smelling. I mean, I go back to work completely smelling like exhaust after looking at the engine for less than an hour. I think there is still a major exhaust leak somewhere but I don't really know how to check if the leak is coming from the exhaust manifold, the metal plate covering the exhaust down tube hole left from egr removal, or just a bad cat or muffler.

If you have a smoke machine, you can test for exhaust leak. Otherwise, you'll have to do what the rest of us mere mortals do and use your powers of observation and deduction.

Usually exhaust leaks are because of a bad gasket:
intake/manifold gasket (you just replaced this, so assume for now it is ok?)
gasket where the EGR j-pipe connects to the exhaust manifold.
weak fitting in the EGR system (fittings where the pipes connect)
bushings on the heat riser shaft in the exhaust manifold
donut gasket between the exhaust manifold and exhaust down pipe (did you put a new one on when you reinstalled the manifolds? are the 3 nuts that tighten the down pipe to the exhaust manifold tight??)
donut gasket between the exhaust downpipe and the cat.

Are there any large holes in exhaust pipes? (exhaust down pipe, cat, muffler)

 

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I mean, I go back to work completely smelling like exhaust after looking at the engine for less than an hour.

Consider this a badge of honor! Everyone should be as lucky to have the problems you are solving!

You can out think these problems. That is what gives you power over them.

 

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The cat is 7-8 years old but less than 10, 000 miles but again its a Checker cat. Someone that saw it, thinks it looks small. At the time, checker said it was smaller because they are more efficient than the old ones but I'm not sure I should believe that in hindsight. Maybe this could cause back pressure?

The original cat, the one that came with the truck, had 'excessive' amounts of precious metals (palladium and the likes). Those metals are catalysts in reactions that change 'poisonous' gases into less poisonous products.
New cats have smaller amounts of the metals, because the price on the global market for them has increased (there are competing industrial uses for the metals). Cat manufacturers claim that even with lesser amounts of actual precious metals, by using new techniques to increase the surface area of the catalyst they do use, the cats are just as efficient.

I wouldn't worry too much about the cat right now. But the next time you do have it off, test to see if it is clogged.

 

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When you took off the carb and reinstalled it, did you remove this 'throttle torque rod' completely from the vehicle and possible reinstall it backwards?
read this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/44689-fyi-slug-reversed-torque-rod.html

the rod connects on one side to the plate on the firewall and the other side (side that the arrow is point at) to the carb linkage.
The arm that comes off this rod on the carb side is supposed to be longer than the arm that comes of this rod at the firewall side.

If they are reversed, then the throttle shaft on the carb won't respond properly when you push on the gas pedal.

Double check and make sure it's on the correct way.

 

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What's the status on the fuses and Emission Control computer?
read through this thread (especially posts #31 and #37 on):
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/492414-help-fj40jim-carb-rebuild-runs-like-crap-now-2.html

Are all the fuses (especially the "Engine" fuse) good?

Make a decision on whether or not you think you should replace the Emission Control computer. If you want to get a used one (hopefully one that is in proper working order), then try sending a private mail from this site to Georg or Spike Strip to see if they have a good one they are willing to sell. Shouldn't be that expensive.
I think Georg's call sign on this site is like orangefj45
I've bought stuff from him before and he's a great guy.

 

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I think the reason why you can't screw the j-pipe back into the egr cooler is because the sleeve is missing. The sleeve acts like a ferrule does in plumbing.

See the picture you posted (I have labeled it as I understand which part is which, please correct me if I am wrong) and then look at the parts image and you will see the sleeve listed.

Anyway, if you are going to run the truck fully smogged and remount the EGR system, you should buy the stainless steel pipe new with new gaskets, nuts etc.. I understand that the face of the old pipes warp and don't seat well against the exhaust manifold and lead to exhaust leaks. You do not want and exhaust leak there, it will affect performance.

Also, you should be able to clean up those threads on the EGR cooler. Use some brake cleaner or other solvent to give it a good soaking. It is just carbon build up.

 

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I sprayed a lot more carb cleaner around the metal union that goes into the intake manifold and it still revved up the engine, it just wanted more juice. I removed it and cleaned up the threads but didn't have time to reinstall. I might just plug the hole with a threaded plug with sealer to take the brake and ac idle uo out of the circuit just while I continue to diagnose.

Make sure the A/C idle up port on the union has a hose attached to it when you are checking for leaks. If the A/C idle port is left open, as you spray it will most likely take in some of the carb fluid and that could be the reason you are noticing a rev in the idle.

 

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Yeah, these two vac ports that you plugged connect to hoses that connect to the EGR modulator, which you have removed.

Make sure that the plugs that you used are airtight and not sources of vac leaks.

 

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Hmm. I'll check mine this weekend and see how it compares (assuming that mine is functioning correctly).

Alright, I put my vac gauge on the hose connecting to the brake booster to test if the diaphragm in the brake booster holds vac, and it does just as yours did. The vac slowly leaked away over time, but I think it had more to do with a poor connection to the vac gauge.

Either way, it appears that your brake booster is functioning normally. When you drive it, do the brakes work well?

I think what happened during the incident when your j-pipe came off is that there was a significant vac leak as soon as that pipe came off. So when the pipe came off, your engine lost vac, so when you pushed on the brakes there wasn't enough vac being created to continue to take the air out of the brake booster and you lost the power assisted braking. At least it seems like a plausible scenario.


Remember, the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) takes exhaust gas from the exhaust manifold, through the j-pipe and into the EGR cooler. The exhaust is allowed to enter into the intake manifold by the EGR valve. If the EGR valve is open, exhaust gas enters into the intake manifold below the carb and is mixed with the fuel/gas from the carb for re-combustion in the cylinder chambers. If the EGR valve is closed, no exhaust is allowed to enter the intake manifold. The EGR valve is regulated (opened and closed) by the EGR modulator. It is vac controlled and only opens and closes during certain operating conditions, presumably during conditions when there is likely incomplete combustion in the chamber, so the exhaust is rich in unburnt gasoline and sent back in for another chance.

 

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I think you should make a decision whether or not you are going to put the EGR system back on the rig and run the truck fully smogged, or commit to a complete desmog.
If you live in a county that requires emissions inspections, then you will most likely want to put the EGR system back on and make sure that all the required emissions components are present and operating correctly.

The reason is that the EGR system has an effect on the ignition advance, and therefor the performance of the engine under acceleration.

If you reinstall the EGR system with a new j-pipe (and making sure that both the EGR valve and EGR modulator are working correctly), then you should be able to get the truck running as it was before the incident (assuming you have all the vac leaks corrected, the crab was rebuilt correctly and the initial problem/reason why the j-pipe came off is resolved).

If you go for full desmog, that would include sending the distributor out for a recurve, possibly sending the carb out for a desmog rebuild, and going through the steps for removing the remaining emission components on the truck.

 

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This thread (see post #10) has the .pdf for complete desmog, if you decide to go that route:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/779620-what-my-engine.html