It clicks pretty often, but you shouldn't need it in your cab for long. Once readiness is achieved you can pull and put a resistor at the sensor end.
EGR Readiness Achieved with EGR Removed!
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It clicks pretty often, but you shouldn't need it in your cab for long. Once readiness is achieved you can pull and put a resistor at the sensor end.
Slightly off topic, but related. I am ready to get my 2 year emissions check, here in WA, we are allowed 2 "not ready" monitors (pre 2000 model vehicles) and no CEL. If I just clear my PO401 code with my scangauge, and then install the resistor in place of the sensor, will I just be "not ready" or will I throw a CEL. If just "not ready" then I should pass my emissions test, as long as all other monitors go "ready". Am I thinking through this correctly?
PS. Appletech, thanks for reposting the diagrams.
PS. Appletech, thanks for reposting the diagrams.
thanks appletech, I was thinking it had to stay in the car, now I "get it", maybe, except that my vac lines are not quite like other's photos
This is brilliant! I've got an emissions test coming up soon and have the dreaded P0401. I'm clear the code and see if I can use this to get readiness! Thank you for the info
Reviving an old thread here. Just wanted to report that I did this fix exactly following AppleTech's schematic in post #40 and it worked like a charm! I actually have done it twice now. Both times I achieved EGR readiness within 5 minutes of driving around.
Some background: I have a 96 that's had a P0401 that I had been diagnosing for about a year. I'm in CA and need to achieve readiness to pass smog. New modulator, vcv, vacuum lines, cleaned out intake, etc. Nothing would clear it. I eventually resorted to using this method and to my surprise I had achieved readiness before I even got out of my neighborhood!
I used a plug-in relay with socket and left the socket vampire-clamped into the ECU harness, tucked away behind the dash panels. This way I could remove the relay once readiness was achieved and then could simply plug it back into the socket if I needed to clear it again. Sure enough, a few months later I had disconnected the battery and needed to achieve readiness again. Plugged in the relay and again within 5 minutes had achieved readiness! This is the relay I used: Amazon.com: Car Auto Truck Relay & Socket SPDT 12V 12 Volt DC 40A AMP 5Pin: Car Electronics If everything is hooked up right, you'll definitely be able to hear the relay clicking while driving around. I did not use the 100 ohm ground resistor, so the relay flutters under throttle, but regardless it still works.
After achieving readiness, I cut the lead to the temperature sensor that goes into the manifold and soldered in a 4.7k ohm resistor. I then taped the two halves of the lead together and wrapped it with some heat wrap so it looks stock. Since this mod, I have achieved readiness, passed smog, and have not had a CEL for months now!
Long-time lurker on ih8mud, but this has been the best life-saving thread I have discovered by far!
Some background: I have a 96 that's had a P0401 that I had been diagnosing for about a year. I'm in CA and need to achieve readiness to pass smog. New modulator, vcv, vacuum lines, cleaned out intake, etc. Nothing would clear it. I eventually resorted to using this method and to my surprise I had achieved readiness before I even got out of my neighborhood!
I used a plug-in relay with socket and left the socket vampire-clamped into the ECU harness, tucked away behind the dash panels. This way I could remove the relay once readiness was achieved and then could simply plug it back into the socket if I needed to clear it again. Sure enough, a few months later I had disconnected the battery and needed to achieve readiness again. Plugged in the relay and again within 5 minutes had achieved readiness! This is the relay I used: Amazon.com: Car Auto Truck Relay & Socket SPDT 12V 12 Volt DC 40A AMP 5Pin: Car Electronics If everything is hooked up right, you'll definitely be able to hear the relay clicking while driving around. I did not use the 100 ohm ground resistor, so the relay flutters under throttle, but regardless it still works.
After achieving readiness, I cut the lead to the temperature sensor that goes into the manifold and soldered in a 4.7k ohm resistor. I then taped the two halves of the lead together and wrapped it with some heat wrap so it looks stock. Since this mod, I have achieved readiness, passed smog, and have not had a CEL for months now!
Long-time lurker on ih8mud, but this has been the best life-saving thread I have discovered by far!
I Have a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80 (built late 96) and live in a state that has no emissions requirement so my questions are as follows
Ok after reading this thread and several others, I think i might be more confused than b4 i began! I think my biggest problem is most of these wright ups consist of fooling emissions checks and or just blocking off the EGR. The state i live in (alabama) doesn't do emissions testing. So my big questions is
1. If i completely remove EGR system, and put on block off plates is there a Downside ?
2. Are any of the components of the EGR system vital to any other system, if so which ones and how can i keep them and remove the rest?
3. Which Way is the Best to completely remove EGR system and all (nonessential) components ?
4. after the EGR I want to remove everything Emissions related, and take the motor to its simplest form with minimal effort
p.s. Are there any other non essential systems that i can/should remove to free up space? i.e. charcoal canister rear heater and associated hoses. spare tire winch and cradle ?
Ok after reading this thread and several others, I think i might be more confused than b4 i began! I think my biggest problem is most of these wright ups consist of fooling emissions checks and or just blocking off the EGR. The state i live in (alabama) doesn't do emissions testing. So my big questions is
1. If i completely remove EGR system, and put on block off plates is there a Downside ?
2. Are any of the components of the EGR system vital to any other system, if so which ones and how can i keep them and remove the rest?
3. Which Way is the Best to completely remove EGR system and all (nonessential) components ?
4. after the EGR I want to remove everything Emissions related, and take the motor to its simplest form with minimal effort
p.s. Are there any other non essential systems that i can/should remove to free up space? i.e. charcoal canister rear heater and associated hoses. spare tire winch and cradle ?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
You need some keychains in your life 
[/QUOTE]
I like key chains! LOL and in my state there is no issue with them
so i just need to figure out the complete removal process as well as affected components and then get to ordering !
[/QUOTE]I like key chains! LOL and in my state there is no issue with them
so i just need to figure out the complete removal process as well as affected components and then get to ordering !
If you remove the EGR system it is going to be a real pain to prevent your car from throwing check engine codes. You may not care but it is nice to have the check engine light actually work when something DOES go wrong...
I thought from the above reading that removal and or block off of the EGR system would not throw a CEL, and as the NOT READY doesn't affect me due to my state not testing any of the above any way. Would the removal/ block off of said system Automatically make the vehicle throw a CEL?? bc as it is now i do not have a CEL (just an Airbag light )
Isn't it amazing the amount of ridiculous bs that's required to get a person from point A to point B using a gasoline powered engine. It's demise and phase out can't come soon enough.
RIGHT!!! that's why i am converting one of my 80's to a Cummins 12v Diesel (already sitting at my house, just got to go pick up the Locked 94 with the bad motor)
Blocking it off is just part of it. You still need to have resistors to make the ecu think its there and working or you will get CEL.
I see. Guess I need to do a little more digging and get everything lined up so I can performs the block off and resister instal
The demise and phase out of ridiculous bs or the gasoline powered engine?
Modern gasoline powered vehicle ... Neurotically complicated system to create heat to push a cylinder.
Maybe. I wonder how well a new Tesla SUV would handle a deep river crossing.
@AppleTech Once you have the relay attached do you have the EGR temp. sensor plugged in to the wiring harness or do you have it jumped with the 4.7 kohm resistor?
The relay circuit is just to achieve readiness. Once readiness is achieved you can just leave the 4.7 resistor there and the truck is happy.
Thank you bud. I put the relay together last night so I will be able to get some miles in. Thanks again.
