Sort of. It sat for four months while I was deployed. Came home to a dead battery, replaced the battery with a new one and it cranked right up. Drove fine for two months after that.
I removed the Fuel Pump Resistor and Fuel Pump Relay. The resistor appears to be original to the vehicle, but no visibly chaffed or broken connections. I cleaned all connections with electronic contact cleaner and checked for proper operation per the FSM multimeter tests. Both checked out okay.
If the resistor does fail, I just discovered they are discontinued. Part # 23080-66010
I installed both back in the vehicle and I'll be damned if it didn't fire right up. After cleaning up the fuel spill from the FPR return hose and reconnecting it, it fired up again without hesitation. After cleaning up the backseat a bit, I tried to pull it in the garage.
It now cranks intermittently, but with serious hesitation and stumbling. It looks like I'm on the right track, but I need to get this perfect. I think I may have a bad connection going to the ECU. Any other ideas?
This problem is driving me nuts, I've checked everything in the diagram above and tried to start after checking each connection. Nothing. I pressed the gas pedal 10x with the key to ON and it fired right up. I let it run for 10 minutes, increased throttle to 4K RPMs and everything was running smoothly. Shut it off.
That is not a 3FE manual.
3FE manuals all call it an AFM (air flow meter) and it does not have a separate fuel pump relay and fuel pump resistor like the 1FZ.
That is not a 3FE manual.
3FE manuals all call it an AFM (air flow meter) and it does not have a separate fuel pump relay and fuel pump resistor like the 1FZ.
Still troubleshooting, starting to become intimately familiar with the EWD but it's still a learning process.
I'm operating off a few assumptions I need verified:
If the fusible links were bad, I would experience other electrical issues. Specifically, the FL MAIN 2.0L feeds to the headlamps and the 15A EFI circuit. If it was blown, the headlamps would not turn on. Also, I would not be getting good spark or the CEL with the key to ON. See attached diagram.
If the NSS/PNP switch was bad, the starter would not engage.
The VSV controls fuel pressure, but only under certain conditions (high-temps and immediately after starting). A faulty VSV wouldn't necessarily prevent the engine from cranking. The VSV does appear original to the vehicle. The VSV is one of the few items I haven't checked due to its location.
Is the fuel pressure regulator "downstream" from the injectors? I.e. fuel flows from the pump to the fuel filter, through the fuel rail and then to the FPR? If so, I don't believe it would cause this issue.
With the FPR return hose disconnected, no fuel was coming out at cranking and it was dry when disconnected. Lack of fuel is the root cause of my issue.
Disconnect the connector at the fuel pump. Have someone crank the car and see if you see a 12v on the Red and Green stripe wires (it's the biggest wire and should be the top right if you look at the connector). If you used the volt meter, positive lead on the red/green wires and negative lead to the chassis ground.