ECM replacement (1 Viewer)

[ScubaJon]

I am having the stall and engine seeming to misfire but never have any codes. This last time the check engine and high AT temp lights were flashing as it was sputtering. Those lights are on when it stalls at a stop also so I think it was trying to stall and restarting repeatedly and that was what was causing the flashing lights.

I have a scanner and have never seen a code historic current or pending.

I have replaced fuel pump and filter it seemed to get better for a week or so then came back


Cleaned the MAF and TB no help

Changed all 8 plugs and coils and it went away for a couple weeks.

I think it may be the ECM and when I did the repairs disconnecting the battery reset the computer and the problem went away till it was triggered again and I have no clue what triggered it.

So on the the ECM

If I buy an ECM off ebay I assume I have to take to a dealer to be programed any ideas on cost ?

I see they fix and return your ecm on ebay if I do that do I need it to be reprogrammed by the dealer if they can fix it?

I am about at the give up stage its a 2000 with 230K on the clock I got it for 5K with 190K on it and love it but I can see chasing this problem may start to add up to more than I want to shell out.

 

[Spike555]

You need to look at the transmission. If it is overheating you need to figure out why.
A flashing check engine light means stop driving and usually means severe misfires.
I have no idea if the overheating transmission light coming on will also trigger the check engine light or not.

Before replacing the ECU I'd take it to a shop and let them figure it out.

But to answer your question, yes, typically the ECU needs to be synced with the alarm in order to work. Typically it is 1 hour labor charge to do this.

 

[Mauser]

I'm not sure the ecu is your problem .

But to answer your questions. Yes, if you buy a used ecu the immobilizer will have to be flashed. The dealer wont do it, you will have to find a locksmith or someone who can.

If you have your ecu repaired the immobilizer chip will retain your key codes.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

ECU's rarely go bad (unless you fry them dinking with the electronics). I'd be looking elsewhere for your issue - water intrusion, corrosion in a junction block, etc.

 

[2001LC]

I've posted in other thread you've posted issue. But I don't recall you mentioning AT temp FLASHING. Sure light will flash as engine cuts off, then on.

This actually indicates ECM working, so not likely issue. Although water leaking down "A" pillar(s) into cabin inside footwell electronics, can cause intermittent issues.

I posted some stuff in those other threads you're in, I hope you find helpful. But one thing I've not mentioned is coolant system. Make sure it's operating properly. Start by checking level after 8 hour cool down. If coolant only a few inch low in radiator, you can get false reading that engine is running cooler than normal, but actually overheating. This is due to coolant being below the temp sending unit.

 

[ScubaJon]

I guess I was not clear about the CEL and at temp its flashing due to the engine cutting off and on and not a steady flashing. When the car dies those lights are on but as soon as I crank it they go out as the engine starts. And The engine will always re start at the first turn of the key.


I will take a closer look at the coiling system but the plastic over flow is always right where it should be. And I have never noticed the Radiator being low on fluid but its an easy check so will do it. The temp gauge is always at just under 1/2 way as far as the idiot guage in the car.So should I fill the Rad to the top when cool or how far from the cap down should it be ?

With it restarting right away and no signs of over heating I would not think its an over temp thing but I really do not know much about it.

With all the work I have done on computers over the years heat tends to kill them over time and they seem to function when its cool and start to get gremlins as the temp goes up.

I contacted the ebay seller who refurbs your computer and he said if they can fix it it should not need a reflash. Its 135 bucks to find out and a week down time.

 

[2001LC]

When you first turn on the IG switch, all lights come on as a system check, then some go off. So when engine stalls, It's likely your seeing dash lights (CEL, AT) just from system seeing it as fresh IG on condition, and with engine not yet started.

Sounds like your coolant is ok. But I've seen many times where reservoir did not indicate radiator low. This happens for few reason that I've seen. 1) Most common is air in coolant system. 2) Less common bad radiator cap. generally if coolant to low temp gauge will be below 1/2 mark. We see often in the Northern states, cabin heater not blowing hot in winter. Most often coolant not topped off (air in system) or thermostat gone bad.

I'm not saying your overheating is issue. It was just a thought that came to mind when you stated AT temp light flashing, and worth an easy check.

As TM stated: ECM rarely go bad, at least not on their own.

 

[Spike555]

The check engine light works like this...you turn the key to the "run" position and the check engine light comes on and stays on.
When you turn the key to "start" the check engine light goes out, that means it is getting a signal from the crank position sensor, if the light were to stay on while starting the engine then the crank sensor is not working.
Once engine starts check engine light comes back on and then goes out if there are no trouble codes.

During severe misfire's the check engine light flashes as long as the engine is running and the mis fires continue.